80W is what you might creep up to at parties over everybody shouting. And things might start to get hot. For any normal listening, 20W will do.
8" is a very efficient and loud speaker. 🙂
8" is a very efficient and loud speaker. 🙂
Sweet.
So Its ok under power them?
Thanks for helping me btw.
So only a 2 channel for 2 woofers and a tweeter will do, if I was to get a small class D. Also is this going to be stereo on class d?
So Its ok under power them?
Thanks for helping me btw.
So only a 2 channel for 2 woofers and a tweeter will do, if I was to get a small class D. Also is this going to be stereo on class d?
This project looks quite hard to me:
Sure Electronics AA-AB32971 2x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board (T-Amp Technology)
A case and a 200W 15-30V power supply isn't trivial.
But yeah, 2X 20Wpc should do it. 2X 100Wpc if you are careful with the volume control.
Two speakers needs two channels, it is after all, stereo. Which is what the 2X 100W kit above has. As it goes, Class D prefers a flattish impedance, last time I looked. But it must work with most stuff. 🙂
Sure Electronics AA-AB32971 2x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board (T-Amp Technology)
A case and a 200W 15-30V power supply isn't trivial.
But yeah, 2X 20Wpc should do it. 2X 100Wpc if you are careful with the volume control.
Two speakers needs two channels, it is after all, stereo. Which is what the 2X 100W kit above has. As it goes, Class D prefers a flattish impedance, last time I looked. But it must work with most stuff. 🙂
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I'm sorry but what do you mean by this project looks hard? I thought you add a power supply put it in a box (if you want) connect it up and you're away to go. Bit confused
The UK diy electrical hobbyist market has been severely restricted in recent years by the necessity for safety. 😀
Periodic Inspection Report Explained | Electrical Safety First
It's no longer considered good enough for any amateur to build or even maintain mains equipment. Frankly it can burn down your house and workplace, and electrocute your friends.
Anyone sticking mains equipment in a box (easy as it might sound) must be qualified to do so. It must then be tested for safety (PAT testing at its simplest) and meet EU regulations.
What happens in case of flood, for instance. Or a mains spike down the mains. Or if you leave it to overheat covered by your jumper?
This is why some (maybe) OCD people unplug everything at night. But the fact is that manufacturers frequently recall devices for safety reasons. And these are EXPERTS. What do you really know about electrics? 🙂
Periodic Inspection Report Explained | Electrical Safety First
It's no longer considered good enough for any amateur to build or even maintain mains equipment. Frankly it can burn down your house and workplace, and electrocute your friends.
Anyone sticking mains equipment in a box (easy as it might sound) must be qualified to do so. It must then be tested for safety (PAT testing at its simplest) and meet EU regulations.
What happens in case of flood, for instance. Or a mains spike down the mains. Or if you leave it to overheat covered by your jumper?
This is why some (maybe) OCD people unplug everything at night. But the fact is that manufacturers frequently recall devices for safety reasons. And these are EXPERTS. What do you really know about electrics? 🙂
You would have a fuse wouldn't you? And maybe a thermostat.
All I have done is put a 4 channel amp and speakers in my car. that's why I'm on here asking about it. 🙂
All I have done is put a 4 channel amp and speakers in my car. that's why I'm on here asking about it. 🙂
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TBH, Camerong, it took the Titanic to sink before anybody realised there was a safety issue with the lifeboats! 😀
All I can say, is I prefer to stay within my comfort zone and sleep soundly at night. 🙂
Even loudspeakers are a fire hazard. Overload the tweeter section by fast tape-spooling forward, as we did in studios in the old days, can set components on fire. Hopefully nothing flammable was nearby. Well, obviously not, otherwise we wouldn't have the picture below. Phew. 😱
All I can say, is I prefer to stay within my comfort zone and sleep soundly at night. 🙂
Even loudspeakers are a fire hazard. Overload the tweeter section by fast tape-spooling forward, as we did in studios in the old days, can set components on fire. Hopefully nothing flammable was nearby. Well, obviously not, otherwise we wouldn't have the picture below. Phew. 😱
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Each component should be considered for thermal performance and ventillation, internal and external electrical isolation, mechanical security including long term vibration considerations, where and how you fuse, how you use switches, how you earth for safety (including the methods of affixing the connections) and how you introduce the input/output connectors. Other things include noise isolation from the mains and other places and how you internally earth the device for correct performance.
It's not insurmountable, but I don't think you should jump in without collecting some good advice 😉
It's not insurmountable, but I don't think you should jump in without collecting some good advice 😉
Yeah man cheers but I don't know where to find all this good info. Thanks for helping.
Haha it's quite funny ae,
I just wanted to make this as a hobby and it's bloody technical af. I'm not smart enough for this.
I just paint houses for a living haha.
Though I wish I got into the tech world, because I find it really interesting but it's blowing my mind so far.
Don't know if I can. Someone has to have been in my position and started from somewhere. I envy all of you guys, you are all very intelligent.
Haha it's quite funny ae,
I just wanted to make this as a hobby and it's bloody technical af. I'm not smart enough for this.
I just paint houses for a living haha.
Though I wish I got into the tech world, because I find it really interesting but it's blowing my mind so far.
Don't know if I can. Someone has to have been in my position and started from somewhere. I envy all of you guys, you are all very intelligent.
Well, yes, goodmorning !
What can I say ? this is where it leads when you don't know where to start.
I'd like to introduce you ...to multi way Forum 😱🙂 which summarized 😛
What ?!?! Allen B & System seven allied together to put you down with safety risks and class D amps without making a brief mention of crossovers !?
Ummmhhh...those Sure amps make 75 W at 1 % THD , so that would be the target ? 4 Ω speakers
It's quite a big load for 2 speakers, I'd make it 3 way
What can I say ? this is where it leads when you don't know where to start.
I'd like to introduce you ...to multi way Forum 😱🙂 which summarized 😛
What ?!?! Allen B & System seven allied together to put you down with safety risks and class D amps without making a brief mention of crossovers !?
Ummmhhh...those Sure amps make 75 W at 1 % THD , so that would be the target ? 4 Ω speakers
It's quite a big load for 2 speakers, I'd make it 3 way
Haha yeah they are looking out for my safety! 🙂 it's good.
Good guys helping a newbie Haha.
1%thd that's something about distortion right?
A three way? Isn't that even more complicated haha.
I just thought that if you have speakers rated at 80W rms,
You get an amp that puts out at least 80w rms.
Good guys helping a newbie Haha.
1%thd that's something about distortion right?
A three way? Isn't that even more complicated haha.
I just thought that if you have speakers rated at 80W rms,
You get an amp that puts out at least 80w rms.
How about a 75 W class B amp with two EL 34 ?
To make it more complicated ...
The load determines how much current the amplifier is asked...
Said it other way :
🙄 Well, I forgot !
Oh yes, impedance : the voltage drop across lower load determines the amplifier to mantain potential across output and so the load sets the headroom
To make it more complicated ...
The load determines how much current the amplifier is asked...
Said it other way :
🙄 Well, I forgot !
Oh yes, impedance : the voltage drop across lower load determines the amplifier to mantain potential across output and so the load sets the headroom
Ok cool that makes sense. Had to read it a few times but it's all starting to come together.
What should I do with this idea. I was excited to do it. But it's starting to sound out of my knowledge
What should I do with this idea. I was excited to do it. But it's starting to sound out of my knowledge
There are chassis mount mains connectors that include an RFI filter, fuse and switch (not necessarily the one shown, just an example). They should have a secure earth lead with an eyelet at the end that has serrations like a shakeproof washer does. You will need to re-specify the fuse.
This doesn't excuse you from understanding the issues and I think you should start a thread in the amp forums here.. but it will help get you past the first hurdle of chassis and mains input.
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Speaker power ratings appear to be the only way to communicate information about them to customers who don't yet know anything else about speakers. In this context, speaker power is a near useless piece of information (not to mention abused). It does have its usefulness but for the most part home speaker builders pay much less attention to it than you might expect.
The same might be said about amplifier distortion ratings.. although this can get a little more involved simply because distortion is less of an issue with speakers than it is with some amps.
The wattage is not as specific as you would think. It's really kind of outdated, and we should use Voltage instead, but, broadly, think of the wattage of an amplifier as the maximum pressure it can create on the cone. That pressure causes the cone to move in or out. Exceed that pressure and the cone will rupture.
However, there's not a big need to match amplifier to driver wattage. You can run a 100Watt speaker driver with a 5 watt amplifier, and vice versa.
What's important is that you don't play music at a level that exceeds that pressure rating. The maximum wattage, along with the driver's efficiency (or sensitivity with Voltage) allows us to predict the maximum volume at 1 meter. However, just because you have a 200 watt woofer doesn't mean you are going to play music at 200 Watt peaks all the time though. 🙂
Best,
Erik
However, there's not a big need to match amplifier to driver wattage. You can run a 100Watt speaker driver with a 5 watt amplifier, and vice versa.
What's important is that you don't play music at a level that exceeds that pressure rating. The maximum wattage, along with the driver's efficiency (or sensitivity with Voltage) allows us to predict the maximum volume at 1 meter. However, just because you have a 200 watt woofer doesn't mean you are going to play music at 200 Watt peaks all the time though. 🙂
Best,
Erik
Cool thanks guys. Iv started to read Basic Electronics Tutorials and Revision
And when I think I've gained enough knowledge I will build it! 🙂 thanks everyone!
I think it's best if learn more.
Rather than blow myself up haha
And when I think I've gained enough knowledge I will build it! 🙂 thanks everyone!
I think it's best if learn more.
Rather than blow myself up haha
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