Might be the wrong thread?
Either way -the above seems a slightly odd way of drawing a basic parallel 1.5 way with a 1st order electrical HP series cap
so without knowing which thread you're talking about / where it came from & the intentions, hard to say. As a pure SWAG (& accepting there's not much future in that 😉 ) maybe somebody was running both drivers wide open in the HF, but wanted to partner the speaker with a sub / woofers so added an HP to try to improve power-handling. Or possibly they were trying to draw a series crossover & simply got the wiring configuration wrong, which can happen -I've pulled my hair out for a few minutes in the past when working on something in LspCAD that wasn't giving the behaviour I knew it should, then after walking away for a few minutes & looking again, I found I'd not properly grounded one set of elements. Trees, woods, can't see -complete well-known cliche. Neither of those are meant as offensive or anything of the kind -I'm just speculating since I don't have time to go searching various threads to try to locate the context; it's more likely there was a reason for both designing & drawing it that way, but without knowing what, when & wheretofore, YMMV. Normally though, if the speaker is used as a standalone, I'd either low-pass one of the drivers with a series or parallel LP (depends on what nominal impedance you're aiming to achieve) or even potentially leave them completely alone if it's working to satisfaction without filtering -IIRC the Brio doesn't have the drivers packed tightly together though, so some sort of desired LP filter would be my preference, accounting for the usual dipole losses, diffraction response etc. If it's being partnered with a sub, the latter may give an HP option if desired & wired in at speaker level, or it's better off done in some other active filter anyway given the frequencies involved.
Either way -the above seems a slightly odd way of drawing a basic parallel 1.5 way with a 1st order electrical HP series cap
so without knowing which thread you're talking about / where it came from & the intentions, hard to say. As a pure SWAG (& accepting there's not much future in that 😉 ) maybe somebody was running both drivers wide open in the HF, but wanted to partner the speaker with a sub / woofers so added an HP to try to improve power-handling. Or possibly they were trying to draw a series crossover & simply got the wiring configuration wrong, which can happen -I've pulled my hair out for a few minutes in the past when working on something in LspCAD that wasn't giving the behaviour I knew it should, then after walking away for a few minutes & looking again, I found I'd not properly grounded one set of elements. Trees, woods, can't see -complete well-known cliche. Neither of those are meant as offensive or anything of the kind -I'm just speculating since I don't have time to go searching various threads to try to locate the context; it's more likely there was a reason for both designing & drawing it that way, but without knowing what, when & wheretofore, YMMV. Normally though, if the speaker is used as a standalone, I'd either low-pass one of the drivers with a series or parallel LP (depends on what nominal impedance you're aiming to achieve) or even potentially leave them completely alone if it's working to satisfaction without filtering -IIRC the Brio doesn't have the drivers packed tightly together though, so some sort of desired LP filter would be my preference, accounting for the usual dipole losses, diffraction response etc. If it's being partnered with a sub, the latter may give an HP option if desired & wired in at speaker level, or it's better off done in some other active filter anyway given the frequencies involved.
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it is a strange way of drawing the circuit, It is parallel wiring of the drivers with one being HPed by the 20F cap.
So one is running full-range and one is active above about 2kHz.
So a backwards 1.5 way. bumping the top up instead of the bottom.
dave
As Scott suggests, the post we are discussing seems to have been posted to the wrong thread.
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Right, making a series filter preferable assuming these particular units & a single-element HP is desired.
Thanks! that clarifies things a lot 🙂 , i ll then revive the thread i'm refering to since it may be worthwhile.
I decided to ask here because it was the only thread i found open where the word 1.5 was mentioned (and i think both of u had spoken about it in now closed threads, hehe).
i'll continue with this in the mentioned thread for OP's sake: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/need-help-building-open-baffle-bass-reflex-hybrid.299618/
(the nola brio clone thread)
All the best.
Santi.
I decided to ask here because it was the only thread i found open where the word 1.5 was mentioned (and i think both of u had spoken about it in now closed threads, hehe).
i'll continue with this in the mentioned thread for OP's sake: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/need-help-building-open-baffle-bass-reflex-hybrid.299618/
(the nola brio clone thread)
All the best.
Santi.
I have not heard the CHP/CHFR-90s. I have heard the Pluvia 11. The CHR/CHP arre sipposedly derived from A10.3/p.
Unheard i would choose a CHx… of the 2 probably the paper, as i tended tpo prefer the A10p.
dave
Unheard i would choose a CHx… of the 2 probably the paper, as i tended tpo prefer the A10p.
dave
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If you want a flashy sound, go for Pluvia 11, and if you want a natural sound, go for CHP-90.
CHP-90 is by far the best in terms of midrange quality.
The only sound quality above CHP-90 is MAOP10.
CHP-90 is by far the best in terms of midrange quality.
The only sound quality above CHP-90 is MAOP10.
Relatively speaking compared to your other recordings, much too 'sharp' to the point of obvious distortion except at much reduced volumes, but then I noticed 'mica', so not surprised.
Regardless, thanks for the continuing demos since I don't know of any place in Hotlanta still in the ~entry level of DIY. 👍
Regardless, thanks for the continuing demos since I don't know of any place in Hotlanta still in the ~entry level of DIY. 👍
I liked my CHP-70's a lot.
I feel like my CHP-90s kind of shout in my face. Admittedly I didn't do very much with the project and moved on before finishing. I do plan to go back eventually.
Raw measurement (3.7ms window, indoor): ignore the low frequency drop off, caused by a windows setting I've since figured out.
I feel like my CHP-90s kind of shout in my face. Admittedly I didn't do very much with the project and moved on before finishing. I do plan to go back eventually.
Raw measurement (3.7ms window, indoor): ignore the low frequency drop off, caused by a windows setting I've since figured out.