Which Speakers should I build?

my info :
-do not build speakers solely based on "looks". For instance the Voice of the Theater Altec is big and not the best looking speaker but it sounds ace
-if you are building wood, the wood used can play a significant role in your tone. DON'Ts : MDF!
-if you use x-over, you will need a trusted design

way back in the late 90's my first experiences with speaker building were very budget friendly. My first "project" involved a full range Fostex. I tweaked it quite a bit , i am still happy how that turned out and i still have that driver. That is my 2 cents advice
 
"wide range" drivers, but they don't do the really low end well

It is true that a FR driver is, as yet, incapable of 10 octaves. The best reach close to 9½ octaves. There is no reason a FR can;t produce just as much bass as a midbass. It just has to do so while maintaining response up to 20k. A much more difficulat job.

A multiway does not inherently go lower than a FR. But finding one that does that well is difficult, but the best modern FRs do this.

MA Alpair 10.3/10p in FHXL is an example. CHN-110 a value leader.

The FR brings NO crossover. Crossover’s are evil. And one of the worst places to put one is between 2-4kHz, right where a cone+dome crosses over.

A FR (wide range) driver has its compromises but we look to then to avoid the compromises of a typical 2-way. AFAIC if you have an XO it should be 200-500 Hz or so, where the worst evils of XOs tend yo disappear (it all has to do with wavelengths)

To say a multiway is an easier build ignores the fact you have 2x as many holes, 2 x as many drivers, an XO to assemble. How are all those pieces going to be the same quality as a pair of FRs of the same cost?

We build FRs because of what they do well and because their faults are ones we can live with (because they often fall outside the actual use of the loudspeaker).

Choose your compromises, essentially quality (2 drivers) vrs quantity(4 drivers + XO).

A diyer building loudspeakers rarely ever builds just one pair. And what they understand after the build is much more complete than before the build and the results (for that particualr listener) will guide the path to the next pair.

Follow your inclination, build a single driver loudspeaker and see where you are. It might just spoil you for anything else, it may not.

fullranger-shield-coral.gif


dave
 
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I agree that buying second hand active monitors would buy u better sound for the money plus other benefits, but not the satisfaction of building yourself. If Planet 10 has some surplus drivers you can have for cheap, then its another case. If you only lived in Denmark I would give you some of mine. Behringer Truth is another active posibility. -Older model so probly many used around, I payed 200 dollars for set 5 years ago.
Good luck Chers!
 
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It is true that a FR driver is, as yet, incapable of 10 octaves. The best reach close to 9½ octaves. There is no reason a FR can;t produce just as much bass as a midbass. It just has to do so while maintaining response up to 20k. A much more difficulat job.

A multiway does not inherently go lower than a FR. But finding one that does that well is difficult, but the best modern FRs do this.

MA Alpair 10.3/10p in FHXL is an example. CHN-110 a value leader.

The FR brings NO crossover. Crossover’s are evil. And one of the worst places to put one is between 2-4kHz, right where a cone+dome crosses over.

A FR (wide range) driver has its compromises but we look to then to avoid the compromises of a typical 2-way. AFAIC if you have an XO it should be 200-500 Hz or so, where the worst evils of XOs tend yo disappear (it all has to do with wavelengths)

To say a multiway is an easier build ignores the fact you have 2x as many holes, 2 x as many drivers, an XO to assemble. How are all those pieces going to be the same quality as a pair of FRs of the same cost?

We build FRs because of what they do well and because their faults are ones we can live with (because they often fall outside the actual use of the loudspeaker).

Choose your compromises, essentially quality (2 drivers) vrs quantity(4 drivers + XO).

A diyer building loudspeakers rarely ever builds just one pair. And what they understand after the build is much more complete than before the build and the results (for that particualr listener) will guide the path to the next pair.

Follow your inclination, build a single driver loudspeaker and see where you are. It might just spoil you for anything else, it may not.

fullranger-shield-coral.gif


dave
Hi Dave. I had a few questions for you? So I Noticed you Recommended These pairs of Mark Audio’s Driver’s.

1.Alpair 10.3.
2.Alpair 10 paper.
3.CHN-110 (Value leader).
Have you listened to these other drivers from Mark Audio to do any comparison’s?

1.MS 11’s.
2.MAOP 11’s (Almost double the money of any Mark Audios in their current line.

I was wonder if these drivers are really worth it over the Alpair stuff? I know the MAOP driver’s are a costly cone and driver to make. Are they really that much better in sound? Thanks again. Jeff
 
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The best one for me is the Alpair 10.3, the CHN110 is best price/quality (close to the Alpair 10.3 but half price). The 10P has a sound that is more like oldskool fullrange drivers, with a rolled of top, but strong bass capacities almost equal as the 10.3. I use both the 10.3 and CHN110 in my personal setups.

The 11MS is less broadband, but fit's better for smaller cabinets. Many like it above the 10.3, but not me. The MAOP11 is the no cost spared variation of it, so it's slightly better due to the cone, but often way more expensive. All differences are small altough, for me the price diffference does nto corrolate to a equal quality difference. If you like it i can't tell.
 
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Vic1184

Member
2020-03-22 11:17 pm
I've had VERY good experiences with a Visaton BG20 driver. It beams quite a bit, because it's an 8" but it sounds really good. I remember making this project https://web.archive.org/web/2017021...ects.com/visaton-bg20-single-driver-speakers/ maybe it's too big.

I've also tested the TB W4-1337SDF in this design. Sounded really good, and also goes quite low for a 4" fullrange. I don't have any experience with the Mark Audio speakers but they seem splendid drivers for the price.