I would vote for the these drivers.
1.Mark Audio CHN-50. (Best bang for the buck). I have them in a rear ported box. 👍.
2.Fostex FF85WK.
3.Fostex FF105WK.
4.Mark Audio Aplair 5.3 Gen. Version #3.
5.Peerless 820987 (On sale at Madisound now).
Not familiar with the Peerless, i can’t find it at Madisound.
While all the other drivers are good, none will produce the required bass.
dave
Consider the C-note kit with flat pack from Parts Express. $150.00 US. Great reviews and small enough for a dorm.
https://www.parts-express.com/C-Note-MT-Bookshelf-Speaker-Kit-Pair-with-Knock-Down-Cabinets-300-7140
https://www.parts-express.com/C-Note-MT-Bookshelf-Speaker-Kit-Pair-with-Knock-Down-Cabinets-300-7140
Hi here’s the peerless fullrange driver at madisound on sale.Not familiar with the Peerless, i can’t find it at Madisound.
While all the other drivers are good, none will produce the required bass.
dave
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Yes nice Option.😃Madisound has CHR-70s in silver/grey for $26. That would a cheap option for a micro tower.
jeff
This fullrange driver comes to mind. (The 6 1/2 inch is sold out at madisound). It’s the fostex FF225WK drivers and put them in the ported box designed from fostex. Goes down to 45hz at 8 ohms and 93 DB. You can always build them and then add a super tweeter in the future. This is at Madisound.
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FF225wk needs a tweeter in most cases. I have a pair of those kicking around as well.
dave
dave
Hi Connor, welcome to the forum and diy. The TABAQ speakers should fit your requirements perfectly - small footprint floorstanders, easy and cheap to build (using the Peerless 830987 drivers mentioned earlier), but huge and amazing sound for it's size. See the thread here, but most info and links to get started is on the first post:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tabaq-tl-for-tang-band.88787/post-1036923
Perfect speakers for a TPA3116 amp with Bluetooth.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tabaq-tl-for-tang-band.88787/post-1036923
Perfect speakers for a TPA3116 amp with Bluetooth.
Indeed, especially for the desired app, but I was referring to the driver, i.e. ideally needs a larger one with at least a 40 Hz Fs to get the desired 'fullness', preferably > ~6.5".FH3 is not that small
That sounds great how can I contact you?If you are in Canada you might want to look to see if any of the excess drivers i have would suit you, they are already across the border.
I agree with twocents, the TABAQ is very good sound for a small amount of money.
I like the TABAQ's as well, I've built 5 pairs with the inexpensive SBAcoustics 3 inch driver.
Larry
Larry
I'm another fan of Mark Audio if you want to go with a single-driver full-range setup. I have several pairs and none are my favorites over any of the others. They all sound great. If I'm not mistaken, they are built for the full-range setup, so you shouldn't need any filter or BSC.
I have a pair of CHP-70s in Dave's slim golden ratio cabinets and they sound amazing to me. I also have a pair of A10.2s in an Onken and, again, they are amazing. For what you are looking for, I would lean toward one of the A-10s. I haven't heard the CHNs or Pluvias, so take that into consideration. Whatever you do, have fun!!!
I have a pair of CHP-70s in Dave's slim golden ratio cabinets and they sound amazing to me. I also have a pair of A10.2s in an Onken and, again, they are amazing. For what you are looking for, I would lean toward one of the A-10s. I haven't heard the CHNs or Pluvias, so take that into consideration. Whatever you do, have fun!!!
Speaking of small FR units (for a WaW), I have a possibility to order CHN-50 (but 4 ohms only). But then I saw that there is a CHN-40 available as well, at the same price.
Did anyone listen to CHN-40, and/or compared to 50?
Which one should I order? 🙂
Did anyone listen to CHN-40, and/or compared to 50?
Which one should I order? 🙂
So I have both drivers. I have not used the CHN-40’s (2 1/2” inch driver) vs the CHN-50 drivers (which is a 3” inch driver’s). I have the CHN-50 drivers in a rear ported box that I desigand built 2 years ago. They are natural but warm sounding and the extended highs are a little soft and rounded out for me but, One the best 3 inch fullrange drivers for the price range. Here’s a few pictures. Good luck.
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Hey Conner!…..so it’s important to quantify what you’re after before you start here….but some tips……
There are multi way kits you can purchase which would be no more difficult than a from scratch full range…..the designer has typically done all the work for you in tuning the low frequency for the optimal suggested cabinet size taking the cabinet into account
You didn’t mention an amplifier but you did mention a budget………quality amplification that reveals the special qualities of high end drivers adds a significant cost. You can offset the cost with speaker sensitivity or efficiency where the amp needs less current to remain dynamic.
At $350 CD, I’m going to STONGLY urge you to forgo the DIY route given price point, purpose and available time taken from just being a student and a young adult with the opportunity to experience all that life offers at your age……most here who are older will tell you how much they would either sacrifice or spend to be your age again! Lol
This being said, I’d consider a second hand pair of powered studio monitors instead. You can exercise your need for DIY by either customizing the existing enclosures or building new ones……the enclosure is typically the weakest point in these designs at the price point and rebuilding the enclosure resonance free can have a huge impact on performance. As a working recording engineer, I can confidently state that performance wise, an entry DIY fullrange effort won’t even come close to what a pair of mass produced, economy of scale powered monitors can do……and don’t forget to rethink th budget to compensate for no need for separate amplification and speaker cables…….at least another $200 or so. A pair of Yamaha HS7’s or Kali Audio LP8 will crush any comparable fullrange DIY effort at this price point.
There are multi way kits you can purchase which would be no more difficult than a from scratch full range…..the designer has typically done all the work for you in tuning the low frequency for the optimal suggested cabinet size taking the cabinet into account
You didn’t mention an amplifier but you did mention a budget………quality amplification that reveals the special qualities of high end drivers adds a significant cost. You can offset the cost with speaker sensitivity or efficiency where the amp needs less current to remain dynamic.
At $350 CD, I’m going to STONGLY urge you to forgo the DIY route given price point, purpose and available time taken from just being a student and a young adult with the opportunity to experience all that life offers at your age……most here who are older will tell you how much they would either sacrifice or spend to be your age again! Lol
This being said, I’d consider a second hand pair of powered studio monitors instead. You can exercise your need for DIY by either customizing the existing enclosures or building new ones……the enclosure is typically the weakest point in these designs at the price point and rebuilding the enclosure resonance free can have a huge impact on performance. As a working recording engineer, I can confidently state that performance wise, an entry DIY fullrange effort won’t even come close to what a pair of mass produced, economy of scale powered monitors can do……and don’t forget to rethink th budget to compensate for no need for separate amplification and speaker cables…….at least another $200 or so. A pair of Yamaha HS7’s or Kali Audio LP8 will crush any comparable fullrange DIY effort at this price point.
You seem to be a thinker. Good. I like that.I am a final year high school student who spends all my free time listening to music. I genuinely listen to everything you would be hard pressed to find a genre which I do not enjoy. I have been listening on headphones and IEM's, however I have always wanted speakers and I now have a part time job to pay for them. I would like to build a pair of speakers of some sort probably with a full range driver because it seems the least complicated. They would be in a clutterred living room in front of a bookshelf and then probably in a dorm in a years time when I go to uni, so I probably shouldn't build something too big.
I dont listen to music extremely loud so volume isnt that big of a deal although bass quality is as I play both bass guitar and upright bass and I would like those instruments to sound rich and full.
I dont plan on buying a kit as I am a student and saving for uni and I dont mind a bit of woodworking as long as its nothing too crazy.
I have been considering the frugel horn mk3 although I am not sure which driver to use. Would this be the right build for me? If not what would you reccomend?
So, think about this: There is no such thing as a "full range" driver, except in advertising. There are "wide range" drivers, but they don't do the really low end well, and they don't do the high end well, either. So, a "wide range" driver needs...
A woofer and a tweeter. In other words, a 3-way.
Buy some speakers. Go to college. Study. Get good grades. Get a good job.
THEN, build speakers.
🙂
Something I have done with several pairs of bookshelf speakers is to power them with a
ZK-1002 Bluetooth chip amp board that’s mounted inside one of the cabinets. Plenty of good sounding power, convenient, no moving parts to break…
The opposite speaker would need to be connected to the other, and a suitable power connector to utilize a surplus 19v laptop ps.
ZK-1002 Bluetooth chip amp board that’s mounted inside one of the cabinets. Plenty of good sounding power, convenient, no moving parts to break…
The opposite speaker would need to be connected to the other, and a suitable power connector to utilize a surplus 19v laptop ps.
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