Hello - this post is a little similar to one that I've recently posted about cartridge mounting on AT MG9 and S8 head shells, but is dealing wore specifically with the difference between these two head shells with regard to resonance. I currently have the Audio-Technica MG9 head shell which has an odd 'melted' look on its top, which I've noticed in photos elsewhere - quite odd and unattractive (see photo 1). I have just ordered the Audio-Technica S8 head shell which, to my eyes, is much nicer looking (see photo 2), but... am I making a mistake here? Should I instead be looking at replacing the MG9 with an MG10? (photo 3). I have a Linn LP12 deck, recently acquired, fitted with an Audio Technica AT-1005 Mk2 tonearm and Goldring 1012GX cartridge (photo 4). Is the S8 head shell a backwards step, even tough I like the look of it and have seen it in early photos of the tonearm? Would a replacement MG10 be a better option? Are the magnesium head shells more solid and therefore better for resonance than the skimpier S8 type? If it doesn't matter, then great, as I've already ordered the S8 at quite an expense...! Thanks.
Attachments
Except for the arm (and cartridge) that could have been my hifi (i never had an FM4, didn’t work all that well here).
Set one of those arms up but we never sold them.
dave
The only arm with a replaceable shell i have used over the last 20 years is a SME3012mk2. An MG10 sounds significantly inferior than the ultralightweight SME headshell with any cartridge i have tried. Exclusively moving coils, some of them very heavy. YMMV.
Well, I think the S8 head shell looks more classic and I remember the SME era from the 70s when light-weight head shells were the thing... so to me the MG10 looks a bit 'slabby', though it may offer lower 'resonance' though I wonder if my ears would ever notice the difference?
I use Audio Technica MS-9 and MS-10 Headshells, they can be found for sale with an oxidation penetrating the finished coating as your one is showing.
I am also familiar with a redesign for the Bayonet connection of the SME Design and it is a world apart as an improvement.
The connection mod' is one much more valuable to have as a method, the oxidation is off little concern.
Fortunately you are in the based in the Country where the connection mod' is being produced, albeit, in another Tonearm Model.
A inquiry about options is well worth the effort.
I am also familiar with a redesign for the Bayonet connection of the SME Design and it is a world apart as an improvement.
The connection mod' is one much more valuable to have as a method, the oxidation is off little concern.
Fortunately you are in the based in the Country where the connection mod' is being produced, albeit, in another Tonearm Model.
A inquiry about options is well worth the effort.
This 'connection mod' you mention, can you tell me more? Are you saying that the Audio-Technica S8 head shell might not connect as well as my existing MG9?
Check this guy out: http://korfaudio.com/blog.
I have the Orsonic AV-101b that I like, but my favorite is the SAEC ceramic mentioned here.
I have the Orsonic AV-101b that I like, but my favorite is the SAEC ceramic mentioned here.
The two I mentioned earlier are in the $200-400 range, secondhand.
Some MC cartridges, the Denon DL103 in particular, dump an incredible amount of vibrations into the shell, the arm, and the turntable. You can easily feel them by lightly touching the arm while it's playing. If anyone knows any head shells that can deal with this for less money, please share.
Some MC cartridges, the Denon DL103 in particular, dump an incredible amount of vibrations into the shell, the arm, and the turntable. You can easily feel them by lightly touching the arm while it's playing. If anyone knows any head shells that can deal with this for less money, please share.
Correct.
But then again, it's about compromises: in order to do azimuth, you need to introduce yet another weak link, the clamp of sort that lets you rotate the shell. What is right? Don't ask me. 🙂
But then again, it's about compromises: in order to do azimuth, you need to introduce yet another weak link, the clamp of sort that lets you rotate the shell. What is right? Don't ask me. 🙂
Hi, The way to greatly reduce inboard heat & vibration from the 103 is to either permanently remove the plastic cap or mode the cap by cutting away the plastic around the stylus end. Both are not that difficult to do & will also improve S/Q at the same time. Below is what I did to my 103 with Boron cantilever.
Also this fantastic H/S from AudioCraft, I picked up at auction with decapitated AC-2 cart for $240, It has the best collet locking system I have ever seen.
Cheers
Also this fantastic H/S from AudioCraft, I picked up at auction with decapitated AC-2 cart for $240, It has the best collet locking system I have ever seen.
Cheers
Attachments
Hi, Yes I know what the cap is, But it does nothing to solve the internal vibration & heat dissipation which reduces S/Q. The only way to do that is as I advised above. It will also have the advantage of slightly reducing the weight, which in your case you need.
Regards
Regards
This is from The Cap website, as tested by Korf: it removes a lot of resonances in the mid-range, and add some of its own in the lower treble (or move the treble peak down an octave). I have the SAEC WE-407/23 high mass tonearm, so removing or adding a gram or 2 shouldn't be a big deal.
Last edited: