Which Head Shell?

Hello - this post is a little similar to one that I've recently posted about cartridge mounting on AT MG9 and S8 head shells, but is dealing wore specifically with the difference between these two head shells with regard to resonance. I currently have the Audio-Technica MG9 head shell which has an odd 'melted' look on its top, which I've noticed in photos elsewhere - quite odd and unattractive (see photo 1). I have just ordered the Audio-Technica S8 head shell which, to my eyes, is much nicer looking (see photo 2), but... am I making a mistake here? Should I instead be looking at replacing the MG9 with an MG10? (photo 3). I have a Linn LP12 deck, recently acquired, fitted with an Audio Technica AT-1005 Mk2 tonearm and Goldring 1012GX cartridge (photo 4). Is the S8 head shell a backwards step, even tough I like the look of it and have seen it in early photos of the tonearm? Would a replacement MG10 be a better option? Are the magnesium head shells more solid and therefore better for resonance than the skimpier S8 type? If it doesn't matter, then great, as I've already ordered the S8 at quite an expense...! Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4836.jpg
    IMG_4836.jpg
    272.9 KB · Views: 182
  • s-l1600.jpg
    s-l1600.jpg
    300.3 KB · Views: 155
  • s-l1600-4.jpg
    s-l1600-4.jpg
    118.6 KB · Views: 178
  • IMG_4816.jpg
    IMG_4816.jpg
    573.3 KB · Views: 630
Well, I think the S8 head shell looks more classic and I remember the SME era from the 70s when light-weight head shells were the thing... so to me the MG10 looks a bit 'slabby', though it may offer lower 'resonance' though I wonder if my ears would ever notice the difference?
 
I use Audio Technica MS-9 and MS-10 Headshells, they can be found for sale with an oxidation penetrating the finished coating as your one is showing.
I am also familiar with a redesign for the Bayonet connection of the SME Design and it is a world apart as an improvement.
The connection mod' is one much more valuable to have as a method, the oxidation is off little concern.

Fortunately you are in the based in the Country where the connection mod' is being produced, albeit, in another Tonearm Model.
A inquiry about options is well worth the effort.
 
You should never use any Head-shell without 2 pin location,
ALL 1 PIN HEAD-SHELLS ARE INFERIOR, AS 1 PIN CANNOT CONTROL THE MICRO MOVEMENT OF THE HEADSHELL. EVEN 2 PIN IS NOT AS GOOD AS FIXED, BUT A HUGE IMPROVEMENT OVER 1 PIN.

CHEERS
 

Attachments

  • DSC05172.JPG
    DSC05172.JPG
    158.4 KB · Views: 72
  • DSC05173.JPG
    DSC05173.JPG
    178.5 KB · Views: 72
The two I mentioned earlier are in the $200-400 range, secondhand.
Some MC cartridges, the Denon DL103 in particular, dump an incredible amount of vibrations into the shell, the arm, and the turntable. You can easily feel them by lightly touching the arm while it's playing. If anyone knows any head shells that can deal with this for less money, please share.
 
Hi, The way to greatly reduce inboard heat & vibration from the 103 is to either permanently remove the plastic cap or mode the cap by cutting away the plastic around the stylus end. Both are not that difficult to do & will also improve S/Q at the same time. Below is what I did to my 103 with Boron cantilever.

Also this fantastic H/S from AudioCraft, I picked up at auction with decapitated AC-2 cart for $240, It has the best collet locking system I have ever seen.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • 103b.jpg
    103b.jpg
    346.3 KB · Views: 90
  • DSC05421.JPG
    DSC05421.JPG
    317.6 KB · Views: 85
  • DSC05427.JPG
    DSC05427.JPG
    432.4 KB · Views: 87
Hi, Yes I know what the cap is, But it does nothing to solve the internal vibration & heat dissipation which reduces S/Q. The only way to do that is as I advised above. It will also have the advantage of slightly reducing the weight, which in your case you need.

Regards