When I blow up something electronicaly, I always ask: "What did I do wrong". Have you ever got such an idea?
In your case I miss any serious analysis of the problem. You could have counted legs of the 3116 chips for example. There are fake ones around and you buy cheapest. Bingo!
Next, why blow amps when you pull aux? Because there is some DC problem.maybe?
Most important, what kind of power supply do I use? Rectifier, switch mode, wall wart? Sure you used clean DC with enough Ampere to keep the voltage feed stable? Your list of parts from your first post looks like collected from the dump. Defective stuff ripped apart. I don't think you got the parts to blow up the amps from Mouser?
Rename the thread to "Why do I constandly blow up amps and parts?"
In your case I miss any serious analysis of the problem. You could have counted legs of the 3116 chips for example. There are fake ones around and you buy cheapest. Bingo!
Next, why blow amps when you pull aux? Because there is some DC problem.maybe?
Most important, what kind of power supply do I use? Rectifier, switch mode, wall wart? Sure you used clean DC with enough Ampere to keep the voltage feed stable? Your list of parts from your first post looks like collected from the dump. Defective stuff ripped apart. I don't think you got the parts to blow up the amps from Mouser?
Rename the thread to "Why do I constandly blow up amps and parts?"
its an Evga supernova G1 pc psu that lives in my computer. i hooked a dcdc step up converter to it (super good one am sure) and used that. the chips weren't fake at a glance. any other trait that says thay are fake besids the pincount?
Even worse than I thought. Dont use a PC supply. It is made for a PC, not for Audio!
First you have to get a solid power supply. You can not expect an amp to run at full output with a supply not even able to give half the Watt you seek.
So, get a 480Watt switch mode supply. 48 Volt is fine.
Then order some 3255 D-amp.
Do not use the last shoe string wire to connect components. Also, don't put it losely on the table "just for a try, I make it right later". This will not live long enough for a "later".
Do not plug, switch or connect anything while powered!. You have not understood that as far as I read from your posts.
Look at your build. Are you willing to show it here? If not, don't power it up, do it right...
First you have to get a solid power supply. You can not expect an amp to run at full output with a supply not even able to give half the Watt you seek.
So, get a 480Watt switch mode supply. 48 Volt is fine.
Then order some 3255 D-amp.
Do not use the last shoe string wire to connect components. Also, don't put it losely on the table "just for a try, I make it right later". This will not live long enough for a "later".
Do not plug, switch or connect anything while powered!. You have not understood that as far as I read from your posts.
Look at your build. Are you willing to show it here? If not, don't power it up, do it right...
man, that psu is awesome. its driving two xeon e5-2697v2s and a gtx1060. the power output is 1200w.
Stereo 150W module with integrated SMPS and balanced/single ended input options available here via the Vendor’s Bazaar:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2x150w-amp-module-for-sale.388868/post-7086291
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2x150w-amp-module-for-sale.388868/post-7086291
am sorry if i came across like that, please do explain why the pc psu doesn't cut it? is it not also a switching power supply?
Whats' the supply voltage for PC?
With such voltage swing what output are you expecting?
Are you going to series 2x12V for +-12V as rail?
There are some document on neurochrome's website you can read to choose the supply power.
With such voltage swing what output are you expecting?
Are you going to series 2x12V for +-12V as rail?
There are some document on neurochrome's website you can read to choose the supply power.
no the amplifier pcbs took single line voltage, so just one psu is fine. i took the 12V gpu line, and hooked it up to a decent dcdc converter. than setting the voltage to what the amp is rated for.
I'd say that get an amp from established brand, like Aiyima, Fosi, Topping or SMSL, for reference. Their cheapest decent models will cost something around 100-120 €/$ depending on what kind of power source they come with. For example I'm right now about to order a Fosi V3 for entertainment in my work environment.
With that, you can validate the technology and you can continue the adventure or get something else.
If your budget allows, try Hypex, ICEpower or Purifi, DIY modules/kits or commercial amps. They are not chipamps, but have a lot of power and very good sound quality.
With that, you can validate the technology and you can continue the adventure or get something else.
If your budget allows, try Hypex, ICEpower or Purifi, DIY modules/kits or commercial amps. They are not chipamps, but have a lot of power and very good sound quality.
Voltage is one thing and important, but amperage is the deciding factor for amplification in class D. That is my opinion. The power supplies for such amps (linear power supply) are robust. Switching power supplies, I do not have much knowledge of but still better to have one overrated than just squeaking by.
It looks like it's this DC/DC booster that's breaks you amplifiers. Are you sure that the boost DC/DC converter you used, with a sharp decrease in current consumption, does not lead to an increase in its output voltage? In general, you need to have a known stable and reliable power supply to the amplifier.
If you want to get reliable power supplies and amplifiers without a brand markup, then contact Sous
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/class-d-amp-photo-gallery.87913/page-109
He has amplifier boards for cars that contain a DC/DC boost converter. Those, you can connect its amplifiers to a computer power supply and listen to music; its bridge amplifiers have the highest price-quality ratio.
i think its the dcdc booster... i have done some checks, and when it poweres on, it outputs 89 volts for a second, than stabilizes. one moment i will check the voltage output of the bt module as well.
89 Volts? And you measure that now for the first time?
So all in all those Class D TPA3116 boards are very hard to kill and reliable as well! One of them survived 3.42 times its absolute maximum working voltage for 3 years. Class D is best!
So all in all those Class D TPA3116 boards are very hard to kill and reliable as well! One of them survived 3.42 times its absolute maximum working voltage for 3 years. Class D is best!
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i might have said that wrong, its 89v on startup for a tiny burst than normal voltage. also the bt module gives around 1.1v at full tilt on output
damn. thees dcdc boost boards played me like a fiddle 🤣. should have bought a few pc psus and connected them in series, or a transformer with a rectifier and capacitors...
Why would you buy umpteen PC supplies to put in series?
Why not buy the correct supply?
PC supply output is often ground referenced so BANG.
Some amplifier boards include supply.
Many Icepower for example.
Why not buy the correct supply?
PC supply output is often ground referenced so BANG.
Some amplifier boards include supply.
Many Icepower for example.