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And second, dsp does colour the sound also, in a subtile way. You hear the digital processing compared ot an analog (active or passive) crossover. Some don't mind, some do. And with modern measurment techniques, simulations and parts you can make great flat response passive crossovers. It has been done before. So don't push your view as the only valid, because it isn't.

Floyd Toole was the head of Harman's research/testing lab. He is a relevant subject matter expert. I explained the reasons behind my thinking, I didn't push my view as the only valid view. If someone holds an alternate view I'd like to hear their reasoning and support. For example, I don't think DSP colors sound or that humans can hear DSP coloration. However, I am open to being proven wrong by a SME and/or a research paper.
 
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Floyd Toole said:
Good-sounding loudspeakers were being made, and still are, but they all have residual flaws of one kind or other.
So they're all good, but they're all flawed...
But one also sees that some years ago progress seems to have plateaued.
... and all built to a budget. Sounds like what you'd expect to see if you surveyed the commercial offerings.
 
Whoa there folks, hold your horses! Be gentle with each other. This is just audio. Besides, talk about an off-topic argument. I only want to build efficient speakers for under $600 that will fit in and work well with my room and be compatible with my current “architecture.”

Anyway, I’m liking the frugel-horn. While I do like the Bradleypnw’s idea of buying something used and re-working the enclosure, it would take more knowledge than I currently have to design something good sounding, and I need to spend my time building so I can get to enjoying faster.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice, particularly the idea of quickly building an OB pair so I could hear it. Still liking the idea of an OB set up but I don’t have any leads on proven designs and I also have a kid.

I’ll get on with lurking the FH page so I can build with confidence.
 
So, ok. I’m A bit torn. Micro towers would fit a bit better but I’m super intrigued by the horns and I also think I probably should get some more sensitive drivers, like the FE126eN. I don’t always need the dB, but there are times when it would be nice. I suppose alternatively I could build a preamp with a gain stage (I do like soldering...).

What would be the sonic difference between double driver Micro Towers with el70’s and Frugal Horns with FE126eN‘s?
 
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Most FHs work near a back wall. But teh FE126 in FH3 just squeaks into the OK. Not near as much bass as things like Alpair7x/Pluvia7. That can give an effective shrinking of the perceived loudness based on just sensitivity.

FE126 is often used with as lottle as a couple watts.

For the mentioned FH3 drivers, i generally recommend minimum 10w. Something good to 4Ω for the EL70 (and 20w into 4).

dave
 
So, ok. I’m A bit torn. Micro towers would fit a bit better but I’m super intrigued by the horns and I also think I probably should get some more sensitive drivers, like the FE126eN. I don’t always need the dB, but there are times when it would be nice. I suppose alternatively I could build a preamp with a gain stage (I do like soldering...).

What would be the sonic difference between double driver Micro Towers with el70’s and Frugal Horns with FE126eN‘s?

A full range driver in a small box crossed over to a subwoofer will sound better and it can be positioned to deal with room modes to a degree.
 
frugal-phile™
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