where should I aim the port/sub?

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I'll be using an Elemental Designs 19Ov.2 whenever it gets here for some HT useage in my basement. It's a small box subwoofer and the recommended enclosure for it for car audio is 3 cubic foot ported. Now I thought I would throw it in a large box (9+ cubic foot) tuned fairly low, below 20 hz. It will be placed in a corner so what would be a good place to aim the port and sub? I thought port aimed towards one of the walls and have the sub downfiring? I could go IB but being in a basement would make it kind of difficult. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hi,
Adire's calculations for "sag" seem too simple.

Quoting from the pdf that Weikertball posted.

Mms =1 / [(2*Pi*Fs)^2*Cms]
sag=Cms*Mms*g = g / [2*Pi*Fs]^2

so sag depends of Fs squared, as I said it sounds too simple.

Can anyone confirm the calculation method from another source?

Going a little further,

Xmax > 4970 / Fs^2
for sag to be less than 5% of Xmax.

As Adire said "go, do the numbers for your downfiring driver".
 
The way I understand it, most drivers are can be downfired but some will sag too far and really cut into their output through a much shorter xmax. I prefer the driver facing outwards because I like to look at it and don't have to worry about it sagging over time. And your port shouldn't face a wall if it's too close as that might block some of the port output and alter the tuning.
 
so, should I downfire the sub and port or just have the subwoofer downfired and have the port firing to the side towards a wall? Would it work if I made the box really tall and have the sub downfired with ports firing towards the ceiling??
 
I always thought it was best to aim the port in the same direction as the driver, although I've seen many many designs that contradict this. The downfiring woofer and forward firing port seems to be a common design in many commercial woofers.
 
You want to make sure that the port opening inside the box isn't placed too close to the back of the sub. The sub will force more air out of the port that should be coming out and it will change the tuning and make it sound like crap. The right angle design is common in many commercial subs with a downfiring woofer and sidefiring port. It's up to you as to how you want it to look, but as long as the port isn't too close to the sub or any walls, you should be ok.
 
Sonosub

weikertball said:
oh, I meant some DIY setups. Just curious to see some.


Built this in 2002 with partsexpress 12" Titanic II I think... ~19 Hz -3dB @ pretty ^&%* loud!

Still pounding away

auplater
 

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I built two. They are designed to be stacked (one flipped upside down) or they can be seperated and used as stands for speakers. When stacked they are about 29" high. I bought JBL blue grille foam and cut to fit so that they would match my JBL L100s. Most of the construction time was spent veneering and finishing. The walnut veneer finish is a fairly close match to the L100s.

The drivers are Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1D. Enclosures are 1.75 cu ft and tuned to 32 hz. These subs are fantastic. They can vibrate the floors and walls. I crossover at 80 hz. The bass is deep and sharp.

If you're interested I can post the design drawings.

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
HipoFutura said:
I built two. They are designed to be stacked (one flipped upside down) or they can be seperated and used as stands for speakers. When stacked they are about 29" high. I bought JBL blue grille foam and cut to fit so that they would match my JBL L100s. Most of the construction time was spent veneering and finishing. The walnut veneer finish is a fairly close match to the L100s.

The drivers are Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1D. Enclosures are 1.75 cu ft and tuned to 32 hz. These subs are fantastic. They can vibrate the floors and walls. I crossover at 80 hz. The bass is deep and sharp.

If you're interested I can post the design drawings.

Personally you should have tuned lower! I have played with Perfects for 6 years in the car and there is significant gain to be had tuning at around 26hz for these drivers.
 
HipoFutura said:
I wasn't very adventurous. I went with the factory specs. My main criteria was to keep the cabinet size as reasonably small. Had I the space I would have used JBL drivers and gone with 6 cu ft cabinets.

I don't have modeling software. Can I change the length of the port tube to tune to a lower freq?

The factory specs were actually a fair bit off IIRC when they were Dumax'ed the specs seemed quite differennt.

How long are the tubes? and what Diameter?

Assuming your is 3 inchs in diamater then it is most likely 8-9 inches long.

Can you fit 14-15 inches? That would tune it lower.
 
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