Selecting a full-ranger already satifies your simple build requirement.
The only decision after that is what type of low frequency loading gets adequate performance from your full-ranger and still meet the simple build requirement.
The simplest would be a sealed box, but I doubt many/any full-ranger will work that way.
Next simplest would be an infinite baffle, but that requires a separated room sized volume on the other side of the infinite baffle. Some full-ranger may suit this.
Most complicated would be a form of horn loading. That can be discounted.
Leaves few options, but all based on some form of vented box.
The only decision after that is what type of low frequency loading gets adequate performance from your full-ranger and still meet the simple build requirement.
The simplest would be a sealed box, but I doubt many/any full-ranger will work that way.
Next simplest would be an infinite baffle, but that requires a separated room sized volume on the other side of the infinite baffle. Some full-ranger may suit this.
Most complicated would be a form of horn loading. That can be discounted.
Leaves few options, but all based on some form of vented box.
A vented bookshelf is quite simple and should offers good size to performance ratio. The Mark Audio Pluvia 7 does well in such a box, sounds quite good and doesn't strictly require the driver to be recessed due to the low profile.
Here is one I built with a friend (in black), this one is about 6 liters, I designed for a specific size.
Planet 10 has a 7.5 liter I have also built (in Baltic Birch) that will perform a little better in the bass due to the increased cabinet size.
Here is one I built with a friend (in black), this one is about 6 liters, I designed for a specific size.
Planet 10 has a 7.5 liter I have also built (in Baltic Birch) that will perform a little better in the bass due to the increased cabinet size.
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What's your budget, where will you use tham, and what kind of tools do you have for building a cabinet?
I recently finished a Baby Lab Red-Eye set and LOVE them. They uses an Aura NS-3, which can be surface mounted. All cuts and angles are straight or 90 degrees. It fills my office and the bass is quite surprising for a 3 inch driver.
Mike
I recently finished a Baby Lab Red-Eye set and LOVE them. They uses an Aura NS-3, which can be surface mounted. All cuts and angles are straight or 90 degrees. It fills my office and the bass is quite surprising for a 3 inch driver.
Mike
Thanks everyone for your responses.
Budget for this build is probably around £250. They are going to go into the bedroom, which is around 17' x 17' and has a wooden floor.
I am almost certainly going to have a local shop do all the cutting for me. I've got a few clamps and plenty of ballast for when I start fixing it together (I made a subwoofer for my lounge a few years ago https://www.avforums.com/threads/hi...e-bar-and-the-coffee-table-ht18-subs.1942842/ )
Straight cuts would be easier but the shop can do angles too.....
I do like a good bass response. The speakers currently in there are Tannoy 615s.
Budget for this build is probably around £250. They are going to go into the bedroom, which is around 17' x 17' and has a wooden floor.
I am almost certainly going to have a local shop do all the cutting for me. I've got a few clamps and plenty of ballast for when I start fixing it together (I made a subwoofer for my lounge a few years ago https://www.avforums.com/threads/hi...e-bar-and-the-coffee-table-ht18-subs.1942842/ )
Straight cuts would be easier but the shop can do angles too.....
I do like a good bass response. The speakers currently in there are Tannoy 615s.
I like the look of the Pensil Series - http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf
If you like a good bass response you may also want to consider a FAST type build. Essentially it is a two way with the full range driver crossed over to a woofer/subwoofer. Box design could still be quite simple. The disadvantage is that you would need some DSP/active crossover and two amplifiers to really do it well. Just an option.
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Mike pretty much beat me to to the punch - there's a short check list that can significantly reduce first time analysis paralysis, and it never hurts to invest some shoe leather or petrol in finding a few pairs of DIY build within comfortable traveling distance to hear for yourself the range of possibilities
That said, if you have the floorspace, and since this is the FR (i.e. single driver) forum I think you could do far worse than something like a simple MLTL and a 6" driver. The enclosures will be all square cuts and round holes for driver and maybe port (or slot port) . I happen to have my own favorites.
FR = in this forum refers to Full Range = a single wide band driver per channel
BLH = Back Loaded Horn
AN = Audio Nirvana - a brand of mostly larger full range drivers
MLTL = Mass Loaded Transmission Line - a sub set of enclosure design, that if you're looking for the full technical explanation of would require more than just a few short forum posts
That said, if you have the floorspace, and since this is the FR (i.e. single driver) forum I think you could do far worse than something like a simple MLTL and a 6" driver. The enclosures will be all square cuts and round holes for driver and maybe port (or slot port) . I happen to have my own favorites.
FR = in this forum refers to Full Range = a single wide band driver per channel
BLH = Back Loaded Horn
AN = Audio Nirvana - a brand of mostly larger full range drivers
MLTL = Mass Loaded Transmission Line - a sub set of enclosure design, that if you're looking for the full technical explanation of would require more than just a few short forum posts
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Is the music to be ambient or for more focussed listening from one spot?
Does it have to go loud? 17x17 is quite a respectable size.
Wall/Shelf or floor standing preferred?
Does there have to be bass?
You could do a 2 way FAST (use a small FR driver and crossover to a (mid) woofer). That should give you better HF and better bass than relying on a single FR driver but requires crossover/filtering. Dispersion tends to be better with small(er) FR drivers than larger.
J.
Does it have to go loud? 17x17 is quite a respectable size.
Wall/Shelf or floor standing preferred?
Does there have to be bass?
You could do a 2 way FAST (use a small FR driver and crossover to a (mid) woofer). That should give you better HF and better bass than relying on a single FR driver but requires crossover/filtering. Dispersion tends to be better with small(er) FR drivers than larger.
J.
Thanks @chrisb for the information. Very useful. The Pensil is a MLTL design and the Pensil 12.2P uses an 8" driver. Do you have experience of those?
Mainly focused listening from the bed.
Yes. I do play it loud.
Floor Standing
Yes, plenty of it
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~ TABAQ ~
I would suggest you search the forum for "TABAQ"
TABAQ is a full range speaker built up out of 7 panels, simple enough even for me to put together successfully.
I had the plywood panels cut, only tools used for construction were glue, clamps, drill, holesaw and sandpaper.
If you have all parts & tools on hand and push through, you can build them in a single weekend (without finishing).
Lots of 3" and 4" drivers to choose from, many experiments have been done.
Not a bass monster, but way more bass than you would expect from the size. It simply sounds very, very good.
Cheers,
Laurens
I would suggest you search the forum for "TABAQ"
TABAQ is a full range speaker built up out of 7 panels, simple enough even for me to put together successfully.
I had the plywood panels cut, only tools used for construction were glue, clamps, drill, holesaw and sandpaper.
If you have all parts & tools on hand and push through, you can build them in a single weekend (without finishing).
Lots of 3" and 4" drivers to choose from, many experiments have been done.
Not a bass monster, but way more bass than you would expect from the size. It simply sounds very, very good.
Cheers,
Laurens
Yes, I've heard enclosures from the Pensil design family with several drivers, including the A12.2P. That one requires a rather large enclosure, and frankly there are smaller drivers in the Alpair line that while loosing a bit of sensitivity over the 12.2P, can dig deeper in the to bass registers in more manageable sized enclosures.
best advise so far
Note that the dimensions of your room are on first reading a bit unfortunate - although if this is a dorm / bed-room there may be sufficient "accidental" acoustic treatment to break up some of the standing waves . A simple tactic can be to place the enclosures diagonally across a corner - i.e. they form the end points of the base of an isosceles triangle.
Take a look at the entire Pensil family. The A10.3 is an all around pretty decent performer, and is still on Madisound at $85 ea - almost half the price of the A12.2P.
errata - re the A12.2P, there are actually two versions of the Pensil - it's only the "Super" that I've heard - which while it works very well, is not a tiny box - i.e. almost 19" deep, compared to approx 11.5 for the standard version, and 14" & 12.5" deep for the A10.3 and A10P Pensils, respectively.
why so much variation in cabinet dimensions? - well, because they're designed using the driver's T/S parameters and for specific performance targets / balance of compromises
errata - re the A12.2P, there are actually two versions of the Pensil - it's only the "Super" that I've heard - which while it works very well, is not a tiny box - i.e. almost 19" deep, compared to approx 11.5 for the standard version, and 14" & 12.5" deep for the A10.3 and A10P Pensils, respectively.
why so much variation in cabinet dimensions? - well, because they're designed using the driver's T/S parameters and for specific performance targets / balance of compromises
Hmmm... then there might be something in the single wide-band driver land for you yet.
If you like to "feel" a bit of bass on electronica, then a MLTL or FH-XL with one of the Mark-Audio Alpair 10.x or new Pluvia 11 drivers might fit the bill.
Then there's a design called "BIB" - Bigger is Better, which is pretty simple to build, but BIG. More of height issue (5.5'-6') tall, and footprint usually within 12" x 17" depending on the driver you use. They need placement close to corners or the back wall (actually that way convenient as they intrude less into the room), and are able to provide surprisingly good LF extension.
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