What's the attraction?

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The foam strips are stuck to the back side of the cone not the front, so aren't visible, so they would not have an effect on diffraction near the front of the cone either. As for type of foam its literally just self adhesive medium (?) density closed cell foam of the type that comes on big rolls to stick in door jambs as a draught excluder 🙂 It comes in different thicknesses and widths as well as colours. I've used both black and cream coloured. I've tried different sizes and at least for 8" drivers found 9 - 10mm wide by 3mm thick the most successful, which are standard sizes, typically I cut them into lengths of 20 - 25mm, varying the length a bit gives some control over the exact damping/response. (Too much damping can actually put a dip in the response). . .
This also works for woofers that have a hard material dust cap blasting out some unnecessary squawking. A foam strip as long as 2/3rds or 3/4ths the width of the dust cap, applied across the center of the dust cap, successfully damped the blast. The gray foam appeared to work but fell off. The black marine foam worked after I carved the black foam to a smaller profile. The foam bits helped a lot but did not replace passive crossover filters of BSC and notch filters. However, the foam made possible a higher crossover point, less crossover (rc) noise and less cone breakup. That was alright for a bit of foam.
 
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Use the overall box width. Ignore the bevels.

dave

Thanks. That was my guess. It's that breakup that bothers me most. I am a bit afraid to start modifying them, but have some other cheap drivers to play with, so I may go for it. I have a can of micro-balloons that I keep thinking could be handy. I know a lot of work has been put into cabinets and driver mods, so it is pretty intimidating to wander in and think I understand a tenth of it.
 
It would be hard to modify them - brand new (you just got them right?)

I like having one project going... thinking making a set with MDF; 1" backs, 3/4" top/bottom and 1/2" sides. I did find a huge 1/8" sheet of cork also (-;

TVR, please free to borrow some of these port-in-front-boxes. I know the midrange out-the-front is a concern, I don't think there is much if any (ear test).
 
Zig eh? Acid free they say. Just break the pen open and paint it on? About how far up the cone? Cabinet is ready. Time for test measurements and some of the non-permanent mods. The Mortite idea sounds quite reasonable. As soon as I finish chilling out from work with a bit of liquid chill, I'll get busy.

Doug, new with about 40 hours on them.
 
125wks

I'm getting good bass with it; sounds a little bright for my taste.

Started a MFD box, going to line the walls heavily. It will weigh 2 - 3 times the ply boxes.

This is how I build them - pics.
 

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Speakers in Pic 1 are starting to grow on me; really hard to say how well they are working with measurements - the sound stage is unbelievable (great depth).

Pic 2, continuing with MDF pair: 1" shorter, same volume (more angle going back).
 

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Still going..... glueing the fronts on. No center brace (I know some are thinking foul).

Found light plastic grid at craft store, $1.59 - used that to keep damping material out of the vents.

Lined the mdf with cork - something else a wise man recommended.
 

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Still going..... glueing the fronts on. No center brace (I know some are thinking foul).

Found light plastic grid at craft store, $1.59 - used that to keep damping material out of the vents.

Lined the mdf with cork - something else a wise man recommended.

Nice use of cheap materials!

How thick does the cork need to be? That thin, adhesive backed stuff will work? Or must be like 1/4" thick, or more?

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I'm using 1/8 - 1/4 inch? don't know, 1st time I've used it. I like it so far.

This box seems like it needs less damping material - which was the idea.

SO far so good, had to check tuning before gluing on sides.
 

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