Adding series multiple EMI filters from Schaffner or Schurter are interesting ideas. Should help cut noise I suppose. They do sell them with flying leads. I have seen inexpensive ones on sale (other brands).
You can also get PCB mount EMI modules from Schurter. Looks like a huge metal box cap.
You can also get PCB mount EMI modules from Schurter. Looks like a huge metal box cap.
Sounds fantastic X.Hi Folks,
I have a new product I have been working on called the SnubWay. It’s a parallel plug in AC mains noise filter to help reduce SMPS noise contamination in your audio system.
I suppose it is currently designed for 110V AC. Do you think there might be a 230V version in the future? For some tough and noisy African conditions perhaps.
Many households in South Africa are now installing (Li-ion, 5kW and more) battery systems with an inverter and solar panels in their homes to run the entire household. I might also have such a system one day, but I wonder how clean these inverters are and how it would effect one's audio equipment.
We are making it for 220vac as well - universal but the plug needs to be changed. We will offer multiple versions. USA 120VAC twin blade plug and EU 2 prong Euro plug. I am not sure what you have in SA but might need EU plug to whatever adapter. The internal electronics and components are designed to handle up to 220VAC though.
With solar power and inverters, if you get the “pure sine wave” variety, they are quite clean. Don’t get the “approximate sine wave” as those are course 4step staircase pattern and noisy as heck! They will in fact, damage some SMPS and amps.
I blew out my prototype Warp-1 amp because my UPS (with approximate sine wave) inverter kicked in. It causes step up SMPS to put out a high voltage due to the sharp edges and burned out my amp.
With solar power and inverters, if you get the “pure sine wave” variety, they are quite clean. Don’t get the “approximate sine wave” as those are course 4step staircase pattern and noisy as heck! They will in fact, damage some SMPS and amps.
I blew out my prototype Warp-1 amp because my UPS (with approximate sine wave) inverter kicked in. It causes step up SMPS to put out a high voltage due to the sharp edges and burned out my amp.
https://www.google.com/search?q=plu...ndroid-xiaomi&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8I am not sure what you have in SA
As a matter of interest.
Ouch!I blew out my prototype Warp-1 amp because my UPS (with approximate sine wave) inverter kicked in
I wonder if a simple converter is the best way to ensure use in other countries besides USA and EU?
Hey folks, a blast from the past. I was cleaning up my hard drive and moving stuff to OneDrive and ran across these photos. This was a little over 6 years ago on the bench was the first prototype of the Aksa Lender preamp. I made the layout on PowerPoint. Laser printed it and used the print as iron on transfer for home copper etch. PCB generated in 2 hrs and soldering it up with rather large 1210 and 0805 SMT parts. It worked beautifully and sounded awesome. I still have this somewhere.
Layout in PowerPoint:
Printed to waxy backing paper then iron on to copper plated FRP:
Etch in HCl/H2O2 for 15min:
Remove black toner with alcohol and drill holes with tiny Dremel drill press:
Populate TH back side after drilling holes:
Populate SMT side with an iron back then:
It’s very rewarding to make home grown PCBs. You should all try it sometime. Very inexpensive. You need a laser printer. They are $99 at big box store. Useful for printing normal documents too! I hate inkjets as laser never dries out and prints thousands of sheets per toner cartridge.
Layout in PowerPoint:
Printed to waxy backing paper then iron on to copper plated FRP:
Etch in HCl/H2O2 for 15min:
Remove black toner with alcohol and drill holes with tiny Dremel drill press:
Populate TH back side after drilling holes:
Populate SMT side with an iron back then:
It’s very rewarding to make home grown PCBs. You should all try it sometime. Very inexpensive. You need a laser printer. They are $99 at big box store. Useful for printing normal documents too! I hate inkjets as laser never dries out and prints thousands of sheets per toner cartridge.
Update on the Westclox travel alarm clock. I gently adjusted the speed by a very small amount (maybe 0.5mm movement in the lever). The clock keeps time within a minute per day now - not bad for zero jewels mechanical movement. The bell is deafening in the morning and snaps me out of the deepest sleep. I know of no electronic alarm sound that is this effective. Something about a small brass bell getting rapped by a hammer.
Anyhow, very happy I brought it back to life and now i have something to remember my late grandma.
Anyhow, very happy I brought it back to life and now i have something to remember my late grandma.
Copper solid wire busses added.
On the bench last night I tried to see if changing the emitter resistors alone could transform the line level Diamond Buffers to headphone amp for 250ohm cans. I changed 10R to 4.7R and it still distorts when listening to piano. I have posted a detailed how to convert the board to a HPA in the other thread. With the mod below it will drive 32ohm cans to 1.5W so the a suitable PSU that can deliver the goods. The 1.5W only applies to people who have HiFiMan HE-6 headphones which are notoriously low sensitivity. Generally, normal headphones need no more than 250mW to melt your ears. These will be in full Class A operation through that range.
Will require change of 9 resistors (in red) and add heatsinking.
On the bench last night I tried to see if changing the emitter resistors alone could transform the line level Diamond Buffers to headphone amp for 250ohm cans. I changed 10R to 4.7R and it still distorts when listening to piano. I have posted a detailed how to convert the board to a HPA in the other thread. With the mod below it will drive 32ohm cans to 1.5W so the a suitable PSU that can deliver the goods. The 1.5W only applies to people who have HiFiMan HE-6 headphones which are notoriously low sensitivity. Generally, normal headphones need no more than 250mW to melt your ears. These will be in full Class A operation through that range.
Will require change of 9 resistors (in red) and add heatsinking.
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Do you have a target price for the filter yet? If I missed seeing it I apologize, if not ready yet I understand.
I love your renders, and lord knows I love some Viborg products ha. Curious on the functionality of the snubway, it looks like it's a device that you plug in to your power strip and it absorbs noise in the power lines? Sorry for layman's terms.
Incredible. It's refreshing to see a device like this demonstrated live, as well as by someone I trust and respect. I've seen plenty of these types of devices for sale before, but I always scoffed at the thought. Does the placement order in the power strip affect things at all? Curious if it would affect the entire phase of your AC mains that it's connected to.
Placement does not matter other than to get it as close to your sensitive device to be filtered so that you minimize the length of wire that can pick up more noise. I do not think it will affect the phase of your AC mains as the frequencies are all tuned above 10kHz. If it was working near or at mains 60Hz/50Hz, it would draw a lot of power and get hot. As it is, the 10kHz filter does draw about 300mW of power dissipation. this is well below the 5W max power draw for a passive device/standby device requirement of the EU.
Thanks for your kind words. Appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for your kind words. Appreciate the feedback.
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Makes sense, I was thinking more along the lines of, would it affect other outlets on the same circuit or phase in my home. Looking forward to seeing this hit the streets!
Hi X,Yes, exactly like that. The amount of noise reduction depends on the output impedance of the noise source. My measurement assumed 1kohm as an example. If you haven’t seen the demo using a function generator as the noise source, the video is here:
it's very impressive! To my understanding: no matter where (in which of my AC outlets) I use this little gem, it eliminates the noise of smps, no matter where they are (f.e. in the neighborhood)? I think I have to have it.
Yes, the offending noise source can be anywhere upstream or even next to your sensitive item to be protected. The important thing is the impedance of the noise source. That is, if the power generation company decides to make 100kHz noise at their station and it has 1ohm source impedance - you are not going to be able to filter it.
But if it’s a neighbor on the same grid and he has an LED lamp PSU that injects 100kHz noise back into the mains and it has say, 1kohm or even 600ohms impedance, SnubWay will absorb it.
Just got the wires from filter to terminal screw connectors modeled in SolidWorks.
But if it’s a neighbor on the same grid and he has an LED lamp PSU that injects 100kHz noise back into the mains and it has say, 1kohm or even 600ohms impedance, SnubWay will absorb it.
Just got the wires from filter to terminal screw connectors modeled in SolidWorks.
A blast from the past as I was going through my hard drive and found some cool photos. About eleven years ago, I started on my audio journey. Never did anything with audio before that except for using a speaker driver to pulse a fuel air chamber as an actuator for an experiment at work.
Here was my first DIY amp - a TPA3118 chip flipped on its back and all the SMT parts that goes with it also flipped and glued to paper with PVA glue. Then I P2P wired the parts with solder iron. Amazing thing was that it worked and it sounded great. This was before you could buy cheap Class D amps from China. This kicked off the monster TPA3116 thread.
I added a 1/2in copper pipe as a heatsink.
My first nice DIY speaker was a scaled down version of the FH3 to fit a 3.5in driver. The TC9FD sounded great in this speaker.
This was all I had in my lab back then. A CD carousel driving the amp from the headphone output, and the single pair of speakers. The speakers were built on the carpeted floor. No table or bench yet. 🙂
Here was my first DIY amp - a TPA3118 chip flipped on its back and all the SMT parts that goes with it also flipped and glued to paper with PVA glue. Then I P2P wired the parts with solder iron. Amazing thing was that it worked and it sounded great. This was before you could buy cheap Class D amps from China. This kicked off the monster TPA3116 thread.
I added a 1/2in copper pipe as a heatsink.
My first nice DIY speaker was a scaled down version of the FH3 to fit a 3.5in driver. The TC9FD sounded great in this speaker.
This was all I had in my lab back then. A CD carousel driving the amp from the headphone output, and the single pair of speakers. The speakers were built on the carpeted floor. No table or bench yet. 🙂
You certainly have come a very long way in just 11 years and earned a lot of well deserved respect while doing to. Refreshing to see such open disclosure of your efforts and the results speak for themselves, great to have what you are doing for the DIY and direct sales audiophiles amongst. In an industry so full of BS it is great to have honestly priced, solid gear we can afford.
Love that first amp and speaker setup🙂
Rick
Love that first amp and speaker setup🙂
Rick