Nice! Tell us more about the crossover curves and voicing strategy.
You have 4 inductors, 5 capacitors, and 5 resistors. That’s a lot of parts for a 2 way. I think LS3/5A was 11 components and that was a lot. My Vanguard managed to do it with 6 components.
Sometimes drivers that need a lot of resonance peak notch filters can rack up parts count quickly.
You have 4 inductors, 5 capacitors, and 5 resistors. That’s a lot of parts for a 2 way. I think LS3/5A was 11 components and that was a lot. My Vanguard managed to do it with 6 components.
Sometimes drivers that need a lot of resonance peak notch filters can rack up parts count quickly.
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A model railway DCC controller.
I ran out of PIC16f1812's so bought in some PIC16f1788.
Just changed selected micro in MPLAB X expecting it to work and it didnt.
The a2d wasnt functioning.
Had a dig through datasheet and a2d works a bit different in 1788.
So updated a2d registers and that fixed it.
Then noticed the speed display didnt always go down to zero.
Found bug in simple divide routine thatt was used to save using PIC divide function.
I was dividing by 33 but routine was miscounting always adding extra 1.
Easy fix.
I ran out of PIC16f1812's so bought in some PIC16f1788.
Just changed selected micro in MPLAB X expecting it to work and it didnt.
The a2d wasnt functioning.
Had a dig through datasheet and a2d works a bit different in 1788.
So updated a2d registers and that fixed it.
Then noticed the speed display didnt always go down to zero.
Found bug in simple divide routine thatt was used to save using PIC divide function.
I was dividing by 33 but routine was miscounting always adding extra 1.
Easy fix.
The crossover is sort of 4th order for the woofer when you include the baffle step compensation. The tweeter crossover is sort of a 3rd order as it includes a shelf filter to compensate for the low frequency gain of the waveguide. There is also a notch filter on the tweeter. For voicing I used the waveguide to match the dispersion of the tweeter to the woofer at the 1,500 Hz crossover which is low enough and steep enough to avoid the woofer cone breakup. The Visaton tweeter is long throw and very linear and the waveguide gives 6 dB gain in the low end, so it's possible to have 0.1% distortion at decent listening levels. I stuff the box with 9 oz of wool, so it is very very well damped. The walls are plywood with a butyl rubber and foil damping applied. There is little to no resonance and the waterfall decay is fast. I have parts to build a total of six. After that I'm moving on to something new. It took a lot of effort to get the 3D printed baffles just right.
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About 4 years ago I experimented with DCC speed control with Arduino. I think I used a motor drive shield on an Uno. It worked well but in the end I just bought a stand-alone DCC controller for $90. Much simpler.
Here’s a video a guy made to show how to diy your own DCC.
Here’s a video a guy made to show how to diy your own DCC.
That's a nice looking speaker build. I spent a lot of time testing different box damping materials and configurations. 1) I found that foam was far less effective than fiberglass batting or densely packed lambs wool. The foam is convenient, so I tried it over and over but it just didn't perform as well, likely due to it's low density. I bought the best quality acoustic foams I could find. I went so far as to totally fill a box with engineered acoustic foam. Damping effectiveness is directly proportional to material density as I found in an acoustics textbook. Many foams degrade with time so in 20 years it can become a mess. 2) Acoustic damping material works by impeding the air motion, just like any damper, the resistance is proportional to the velocity, not the pressure. The velocity of air perpendicular to a wall is Zero near the wall. So placing damping material against a wall makes it the least effective as it is only damping sound waves moving along the wall. 3) To damp a sound wave, you need a thickness of material close to or longer than the wavelength of the tone you seek to absorb. So to damp that first and second acoustic mode of a box, you really need fiberglass or lambs wool filling the entire box. If you connect a sinewave generator and slowly sweep it between 100 Hz and 1000 Hz you will light up your acoustic box modes and with no stuffing in there they will be very audible. Small boxes have the advantage of producing a higher frequency first mode and acoustic damping is more effective at high frequencies. There's some info you didn't ask for. Ha How do you like Etsy vs. Ebay? I have yet to try selling on Etsy.
I have butyl/foil lined walls with adhesive eggcrate foam plus polyfill stuffing inside main chamber. Melamine foam sponges work best actually as sound damping on walls. Same as BASF Basotect. So it won’t rot after 20 years like polyurethane does. But still need to use polyfill or fiberglass in main volume. I agree that for sealed speakers having stuffing is critical to good sound.
I like Etsy for the type of DIY products I sell. For a finished commercial product with higher ticket items probably best to have dedicated e commerce site to avoid the 5% Etsy storefront “rent”. The back end logistics and order fulfillment tools that Etsy provides is really convenient.
For by XSA Labs speakers and finished commercial amps, I’ll be using a dedicated website.
I like Etsy for the type of DIY products I sell. For a finished commercial product with higher ticket items probably best to have dedicated e commerce site to avoid the 5% Etsy storefront “rent”. The back end logistics and order fulfillment tools that Etsy provides is really convenient.
For by XSA Labs speakers and finished commercial amps, I’ll be using a dedicated website.
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Yes, available in choice of bamboo, ultra gloss blonde birch, and stained birch with satin finish. I also had a test set made in black painted birch as well but decided not to go to production with that.
Bamboo:
Glossy blonde birch:
Stained satin finish birch:
Satin black paint on birch (currently not available):
Bamboo:
Glossy blonde birch:
Stained satin finish birch:
Satin black paint on birch (currently not available):
Sexy man... 4" or 5¼"? It's hard to tell from the photo. It's nice that your drivers don't have a brand plastered across the dome.
They remind me of these if they weren't cheap 🙂
I use them to test amplifiers and how they drive cheap speakers. They actually sound really good for their price price point.
They remind me of these if they weren't cheap 🙂
I use them to test amplifiers and how they drive cheap speakers. They actually sound really good for their price price point.
They are 5.25in pincushion bezel paper cone woofers. Good strong magnet and beautiful mid range. But it is the crossover and voicing that makes it so special.
Looking very nice X,
Will it be similarly priced and finished like your small Vanguard ?
You certainly work quickly.
I bought the drivers, crossover components and have the wood for my TL build but the bamboo Vanguard is stunning.
Maybe I'll end up with 2 pairs😉
Will it be similarly priced and finished like your small Vanguard ?
You certainly work quickly.
I bought the drivers, crossover components and have the wood for my TL build but the bamboo Vanguard is stunning.
Maybe I'll end up with 2 pairs😉
It’s similar to the Vanguard
in that it has a 5.25in but woofer is different brand. Still paper cone and crossover is all absolute positive phase Harsch type quasi transient perfect. The cabinet is described here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-monitor-with-dc130a-and-dc28f.281778/page-12
This is the foamcore proof of concept:
@Andrewbee,
Good luck on your build!
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Bob Carver RAM285: “She’s Alive!”
Excellent work by the team on pulling off the final integration and assembly of the production verification build. Still some debugging and testing to do. Minor fitment issues that need adjusting shaft lengths, screw hole locations etc.
Excellent work by the team on pulling off the final integration and assembly of the production verification build. Still some debugging and testing to do. Minor fitment issues that need adjusting shaft lengths, screw hole locations etc.
On the bench tonight is a Marantz model "Thirty-Three" preamp circa 1970's.
The power amp, a model 16 (100+100W) is done, and back to a happy customer.
The preamp suffers from the same as did the amp - dryrotted electrolytics.
Once that's repaired, it's on to the last piece, the matching tuner.
The power amp, a model 16 (100+100W) is done, and back to a happy customer.
The preamp suffers from the same as did the amp - dryrotted electrolytics.
Once that's repaired, it's on to the last piece, the matching tuner.
A MM/MC impedance/capacitance/gain mode selection switch for the Phono-01 preamp phono line stage. First production line sample unit 1 looks good and we are rolling forward with it. These are Susumu 0.5% precision resistors and high quality NP0 capacitors.
It goes on the back panel of the Phono-01 like this:
Phono-01 has a separate ultra low noise PSU to make this MM/MC line stage ultra quiet.
It goes on the back panel of the Phono-01 like this:
Phono-01 has a separate ultra low noise PSU to make this MM/MC line stage ultra quiet.
On the bench tonight is a test of the Micro-Audio SMPS 550-R2 class A PSU with my SSR speaker protection board operating on remote controlled logic.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rtr-ssr-speaker-protection-gb5.392399/post-7291752
It works like a charm and lets you use a simple latching DPST switch with built in LED to control the SMPS remote on plus provides delayed speaker turn on and instant speaker off to prevent both turn on and turn off thump.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rtr-ssr-speaker-protection-gb5.392399/post-7291752
It works like a charm and lets you use a simple latching DPST switch with built in LED to control the SMPS remote on plus provides delayed speaker turn on and instant speaker off to prevent both turn on and turn off thump.