I use ChongX for prototyping because they are cheap enough to throw away if the design doesn't work...
Generally though, they are cheap 1000H parts that fail like yours.
Generally, the price of Rubycon at Mouser is insane - LCSC sells the exact part for 60+% less money - but you pay shipping...
Actually - The ChongX caps were all in stuff I needed to repair - I buy ChengX for prototyping, not ChongX...
Google-ing tells me the ChongX is trying to be a knock off of ChengX... Nothing nice to say about ChongX but nothing that bad about ChengX...
Generally though, they are cheap 1000H parts that fail like yours.
Generally, the price of Rubycon at Mouser is insane - LCSC sells the exact part for 60+% less money - but you pay shipping...
Actually - The ChongX caps were all in stuff I needed to repair - I buy ChengX for prototyping, not ChongX...
Google-ing tells me the ChongX is trying to be a knock off of ChengX... Nothing nice to say about ChongX but nothing that bad about ChengX...
I didn’t even know there was a “genuine” ChengX! 🙂
It is fine for prototyping but will require desoldering which is a pain.
The Rubycon from Mouser ended up being $2.37ea so not too bad, but not $5 for a bag of 25 like ChongX.
It is fine for prototyping but will require desoldering which is a pain.
The Rubycon from Mouser ended up being $2.37ea so not too bad, but not $5 for a bag of 25 like ChongX.
On the bench last night was a James EMB-1000 subwoofer given to me by a buddy at work who is just starting to get into diy by scooping up great deals on Craigslist. He got the trove of the century with 5 various powered subs, and a B&W DM604 (one cabinet has a chip but otherwise works well) for $100 from a guy who wanted to get out of his audiophile gear. Not kidding. The EMB-1000 was one of the nicer subs and I really lucked out. It’s built very nicely and you can tell it exudes quality. Very heavy and stiff cabinet. Unique alignment I have not seen before: sealed sub with a bandpass tuned passive radiator. The sound is very smooth and tight. Not the usual flappy but deep HT sub sound. Great for music. 1000wrms and 20Hz to 150Hz (-2dB) with variable -24dB/Oct low pass crossover.
Insides look like this:
The controls all work nicely and the aluminum cone is very solid and stiff. Need to wait for the house to clear before I crank it up. It’s paired with the Vanguards in the bedroom at the moment.
Insides look like this:
The controls all work nicely and the aluminum cone is very solid and stiff. Need to wait for the house to clear before I crank it up. It’s paired with the Vanguards in the bedroom at the moment.
On the bench today is the chassis build for my Deltic amp. Installed the trafo bolts, speaker protect SSR’s and nice machined feet on the floorboard.
I am debating whether or not to use a SFP now. No more space so it would have to sit above the trafos.
I am debating whether or not to use a SFP now. No more space so it would have to sit above the trafos.
These must be remnants from the so-called “capacitor plague”.
I had entire Dell server racks fail 25 months after 24 month warranty with oozing caps.
I had entire Dell server racks fail 25 months after 24 month warranty with oozing caps.
Finishing up yet another sweet integrated amp for my 'collection'.
Built to my 'wise old tech' standards of quality.
Still needs a nice front faceplate and a nice wood enclosure.
60+60 watts RMS - dead silent with no signal/max volume - phono-cd-aux selectable inputs.
She sounds wonderful during testing.
Built to my 'wise old tech' standards of quality.
Still needs a nice front faceplate and a nice wood enclosure.
60+60 watts RMS - dead silent with no signal/max volume - phono-cd-aux selectable inputs.
She sounds wonderful during testing.
I am recapping a DBX 5X. I lost count of the caps but over 100 for sure. Being that there are many caps that look nearly identical, it is easy make a mistake if you just don't do them pretty much one at a time. Even better, the circuit board at first seemingly gives you a heads up for polarity, but no, that is something else entirely on the backside of the board. This will cure my wanting to solder for awhile.
We have planned for it but not shown yet as this still very preliminary on the rear panel. The stand-alone prototype of the phono stage definitely has it.
Repairing a pair of Nakamichi 620 amplifiers. I was running both amps bridged and being stupid, attached speakers that dipped to 4 ohms, oops.
Listening to the newly assembled circlophone.
Those meters are showing offset with input short.
Sweet little warm amp.
Ps: old pic, all clean now. But still some more testing to be done. Running on a pair of TIP3055.
May it’s me but I liked 3055 vs 5200.
Those meters are showing offset with input short.
Sweet little warm amp.
Ps: old pic, all clean now. But still some more testing to be done. Running on a pair of TIP3055.
May it’s me but I liked 3055 vs 5200.
Attachments
Also on the bench tonight is installing the replacement bulk caps on the Deltic amp. Using 470uF 50v Rubycon caps. Also found slick way to install the speaker protect SSR low capacitance PSU on top of a stand-off used as a screw to clamp one of the bridge rectifiers to the heatsink.
