Oh wow, these seem to be the spot-on keywords, tons of products appearing in the search results!
Thank you!
Thank you!
Don't get me wrong, but what you think if you cut down with all these wires.
I remember the 70' almost each and every box looked like the picture you placed.
IF I do not use plastic Zippers, then I use shrink rubber and get all input wires together, and so on. looks also neat and clean. I think I you know that each of these soldering joints on the wires is a possible Error Source...
I for one try to use as little as I can and as circuit allows..
Also that 10KOhm 5% Carbon Resistor *right side in the box* what is that one needed for? Hopefully not in the signal path..
Enjoy weekend,
Regards to Luzern..
Chris
I remember the 70' almost each and every box looked like the picture you placed.
IF I do not use plastic Zippers, then I use shrink rubber and get all input wires together, and so on. looks also neat and clean. I think I you know that each of these soldering joints on the wires is a possible Error Source...
I for one try to use as little as I can and as circuit allows..
Also that 10KOhm 5% Carbon Resistor *right side in the box* what is that one needed for? Hopefully not in the signal path..
Enjoy weekend,
Regards to Luzern..
Chris
Last edited:
Thank you, Chris!
I think I get your point. You’re absolutely right, these wires don’t look very well thought out, but: All those wires (lower part of image) aren‘t signal, they're a) the pot controlling the relay-attenuator, b) the switch controlling the source-selector-arrays (salas‘ i-select), and c) (together with the resistor) the wire feeding an led.
Only those twisted wires are carrying signal.
And, I'm grateful for any critique as long as it’s constructive—in fact I'd like to get more critic comments on my clumsy builds …
Please again, it's not Critic.. at all
I even like to see this, cause early 70' each and every manufacturer was like that.
I also see that you have that SPIRIT which it takes to make something better..
And that is the most important thing..
Believe me, you are on the right way.. it's always not to hard to do a good and nice Job with a newly design, but as soon someone needs to bring parts from different manufacturer together into one BOX then it's difficult, for everyone.
That's why I build my stuff the way from scratch, so I can have it as I like it, and if others don't like it, so what?
The other day someone very smart told me this..
You see, you can go and order a set to listen to the music, but the satisfaction you get when you build your own, is different.
Because each time you listen to it, then you know, hey, I build this and it sounds good. that is more than any other equipment can give you.
Enjoy Weekend..
When I'm in Lucerne I will let you know prior to it, may we can have beer somewhere..Or if you are in Bern, I owe a Thai Restaurant you will find it on internet.. Gourmet Thai Restaurant & Take Away 3018 Bern - google will find it for you.. So contact should not be a problem.
Have a nice Weekend..
Regards
I even like to see this, cause early 70' each and every manufacturer was like that.
I also see that you have that SPIRIT which it takes to make something better..
And that is the most important thing..
Believe me, you are on the right way.. it's always not to hard to do a good and nice Job with a newly design, but as soon someone needs to bring parts from different manufacturer together into one BOX then it's difficult, for everyone.
That's why I build my stuff the way from scratch, so I can have it as I like it, and if others don't like it, so what?
The other day someone very smart told me this..
You see, you can go and order a set to listen to the music, but the satisfaction you get when you build your own, is different.
Because each time you listen to it, then you know, hey, I build this and it sounds good. that is more than any other equipment can give you.
Enjoy Weekend..
When I'm in Lucerne I will let you know prior to it, may we can have beer somewhere..Or if you are in Bern, I owe a Thai Restaurant you will find it on internet.. Gourmet Thai Restaurant & Take Away 3018 Bern - google will find it for you.. So contact should not be a problem.
Have a nice Weekend..
Regards
Last edited:
Not sure why would Nylon of any kind need (or even mix with) wax.
You can get waxed cotton tread (usually black) at any clothmaking shop which sells thread, needles, buttons, coloured ribbons, zippers, elastic ribbon,etc.
We call those "mercería", don´t know the English name but should be easy to find.
Also at hobby and craft shops, they use it for bracelets and necklaces or to sew leather.
Now that I think of it, wax may make it easier through leather .... although I guess they are bowing to Tradition, Nylon is quite slippery on its own.
Oh well.
You can get waxed cotton tread (usually black) at any clothmaking shop which sells thread, needles, buttons, coloured ribbons, zippers, elastic ribbon,etc.
We call those "mercería", don´t know the English name but should be easy to find.
Also at hobby and craft shops, they use it for bracelets and necklaces or to sew leather.
Now that I think of it, wax may make it easier through leather .... although I guess they are bowing to Tradition, Nylon is quite slippery on its own.
Oh well.
We call that Mercerised (smoothened) thread.
Sold in tailoring material / stitching material / kite shops, yes, they are used to fly kites too....
Cobblers use wax, sometimes beeswax, when stitching leather.
Check this out...
Cable Lacing Tape | Wire Lacing Cord | Cable Ties And More
Sold in tailoring material / stitching material / kite shops, yes, they are used to fly kites too....
Cobblers use wax, sometimes beeswax, when stitching leather.
Check this out...
Cable Lacing Tape | Wire Lacing Cord | Cable Ties And More
Last edited:
"mercería" seems to mean either 'notions' or "hardware store".
'Notions' in relation to crafts is a store full of needles, buttons, ribbons, zippers, elastic, bricbrac..... and likely waxed cotton or linen string.
Awl For All sells a nice wax thread:
Home - AWL for All from C.A. Myers Co.
Single Thread Spool
Bulk Thread - 1/4 lbs & 1lbs
Proper wire lacing should be flat.
Cable lacing - Wikipedia
waxed lacing cord - Google Search
LACING CORD / NEEDLES
https://www.newark.com/c/cable-wire-cable-assemblies/cable-management/cable-ties/lacing-cord
https://books.google.com/books?id=oN8DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA550#v=onepage&q&f=false
Attachments
PRR, this illustration you posted looks like from a time before cables/wires even were invented (exaggerated of course)! Wonderful!
Just as the „haberdashery“ side-note [emoji4]
Looks like I will have to build a lot more complicated equipment just to get to make elegant harnesses, haha!
Just as the „haberdashery“ side-note [emoji4]
Looks like I will have to build a lot more complicated equipment just to get to make elegant harnesses, haha!
Lacing wires together used to be all the rage.
However putting 2 wires (or more) in close proximation can pass signals between them.
Thought needs to be put in as to which wires can be laced together and which cant.
i.e. I wouldnt lace in amp output signal to input signal unless it was screened.
Yes of course you are right..
My amps have 6 wires per side which are directly connected to the board. - not counting the Wires for the Fans.. they have separate ways
Vrail +-, GND, Output and input all with at lest 10cm distance to each other..
Also I do run shieldet wires for Input, and these are not soldered, I use mostly gold plated RCA JACKS soldered to the board. of course at tback input connectors these are soldered using Silver Solder / it only 4 % silver but it counts..
We have Swiss National Day today, and how else it could bE, Raining..
Assembling my newest Project, but it will not be finished today, as the 3mm thread cutter is not sharp enough anymore and gives me bad threads into the heatsink, where it is nessecary to have stable threads.. So, I need to buy new ones tomorrow..
Nigel, Have a nice day,
Everybody has a nice day..
My amps have 6 wires per side which are directly connected to the board. - not counting the Wires for the Fans.. they have separate ways
Vrail +-, GND, Output and input all with at lest 10cm distance to each other..
Also I do run shieldet wires for Input, and these are not soldered, I use mostly gold plated RCA JACKS soldered to the board. of course at tback input connectors these are soldered using Silver Solder / it only 4 % silver but it counts..
We have Swiss National Day today, and how else it could bE, Raining..
Assembling my newest Project, but it will not be finished today, as the 3mm thread cutter is not sharp enough anymore and gives me bad threads into the heatsink, where it is nessecary to have stable threads.. So, I need to buy new ones tomorrow..
Nigel, Have a nice day,
Everybody has a nice day..
Gosh! I just realized it not only mentioned CABLES, but the pictures actually is about them, and how to „treat“ them! 😀 
(I actually just admired the typo-/graphic style of this really wonderful illustration)
And the knowledge you shared with it is precious…
(I actually just admired the typo-/graphic style of this really wonderful illustration)
And the knowledge you shared with it is precious…
My first diy amp was a set, it looked like a birds nest inside, however filaments twisted and routed in corners, and proper grounding and was silent. There is always more than one way to achieve Nirvana.
Bill
Bill
Wire loom/lacing at STC was one of my first jobs. I laced the AUSSAT satellite wiring loom on a big mapped pegboard and the company was confident to put a 25 warranty on the wiring. No returns yet, LOL.
It's similar to knitting, planned and serene tidiness.
It's similar to knitting, planned and serene tidiness.
My trick for two loose wires, I place one end on a vice and the other end to a cordless speed adjustable drill. Once you get to the firm tightness, see if the wires stay in that mode. It also helps to shield the noise as well. Works on any length and it does get shorter as more twists merge. Maybe put a third wire for shielding?
It looks pretty, but it makes service work a massive pain in the butt, so I don't do it unless I have very good reason to. One or two zip-ties, just to keep things in a general location, is plenty and doesn't make service a nightmare.
Sometimes I do end up servicing equipment where I want to preserve the original look, or I'm adding onto it and want it to match. In such cases, I just use whipping thread, and it works OK. I keep quite a bit of it in stock since I do all my own splicing for halyards and the like, so it's a convenient option for me. You can get it at West Coast Sailing, Fawcett, etc. West Marine is pretty much useless.
Sometimes I do end up servicing equipment where I want to preserve the original look, or I'm adding onto it and want it to match. In such cases, I just use whipping thread, and it works OK. I keep quite a bit of it in stock since I do all my own splicing for halyards and the like, so it's a convenient option for me. You can get it at West Coast Sailing, Fawcett, etc. West Marine is pretty much useless.