I changed the caps on mine. The big one was marked 105 degrees. Did not trust that overkill. When i plugged it to 12 volt I had about 10 volt on one output. Defective chip?
Well. Skipped lunch and ordered 3 more as the assembled boards are cheaper than a single chip on fleapay.
Hope my speaker survived
Well. Skipped lunch and ordered 3 more as the assembled boards are cheaper than a single chip on fleapay.
Hope my speaker survived
Two resistors per channel, thus four in total. If the potentiometer is linear, all four resistors have the same value. If the potentiometer is logarithmic, the resistors with one end connected to ground should be larger in value than the two other resistors.
NB: Turn the potentiometer to about half (12 o'clock). Measure the resistance value from the left terminal and to the middle terminal. Then you have the resistance value connected to signal ground. Then, measure the resistance value from the right terminal and to the middle terminal. Then you have the resistance value connected to signal input.
20 years ago such specs would have been respectable. I just finished a slightly better TDA7377 amplifier (BTL from birth). Actually, nothing to complain about. Firm bass. THD should be 0.02%. Very cheap and simple to make.
NB: Turn the potentiometer to about half (12 o'clock). Measure the resistance value from the left terminal and to the middle terminal. Then you have the resistance value connected to signal ground. Then, measure the resistance value from the right terminal and to the middle terminal. Then you have the resistance value connected to signal input.
20 years ago such specs would have been respectable. I just finished a slightly better TDA7377 amplifier (BTL from birth). Actually, nothing to complain about. Firm bass. THD should be 0.02%. Very cheap and simple to make.
Keep in mind that "left" and "right" depend on whether the pot shaft is pointing towards you, or away from you. Also, on whether you hold the pot with pins pointing up, or pins pointing down!
-Gnobuddy
Thank You.
It was linear pot.
I've set 18k+27K per side and seems to work fine, a bit louder than my second 20dB gain amp
Looks like without vol pot sound is much cleaner
I've installed 3 x 330uf 35V Nichicon KA caps and the bass is better than with the stock 2200uf cap but i think this nichicons have \/ shape sound signature.
I have TPA3116 with same nichicons and sound signature is similar.
Someone can recomand better power caps? I mean with better bass and better middle?
I have small desktop speakers (overnight sensations) and with this KA caps they sound to bright.
Someone heard Epcos B41 series?
Hi,
I have one of these preassembled boards. I have some background noise even without input, that type of noise that increase when the pot volume goes up.
I changed the big cap with a better one, changed even the little one 10u with a 100u, and replaced the input caps with 474k instead os the original 224k.
I run it at 12v dc. The heatsink begin to heat within seconds.
So, noise, didn't like it. There is something I can do?
Thanks
I have one of these preassembled boards. I have some background noise even without input, that type of noise that increase when the pot volume goes up.
I changed the big cap with a better one, changed even the little one 10u with a 100u, and replaced the input caps with 474k instead os the original 224k.
I run it at 12v dc. The heatsink begin to heat within seconds.
So, noise, didn't like it. There is something I can do?
Thanks
I tried another one, now that's better! Only a little noise at maximum power.
Thanks
Opening the window for fresh air to come in.😄
Hello everyone, I see it's been a while since the last post, it might be time to refresh this topic a bit.
I am new here, have some minor touch with eletronics and I would like to make an amplifier for my project. Source of components may be aliexpress becouse of free shipping to the door and high ratings of component such as Nichicon, Elna, Wima, chips and other, which if doesnt have the same quality as orginals are probably close to originals.
Im looking for an amplifier which should play stereo through 4channel 5-10W, to my 3" 4ohm full range speakers. I see this thread is all about tda7297 and other models are not covered well as this one, which I could use but it has too much distortion for my project, even with upgrades I did.(Wima mks4 1uF/63, diode removing and cap behind it.
I have tried Elna 4700uF instead of stock 2200uF, not good sound and Rubycon 220uF😄 too much midds.)I didnt have others.
I thought to use tda7379 or sta540 (I read somewhere its the same chip?), becouse I have read they sound the best among others. Please recomand better if there is.
I dont believe in class D like tpa3110, becouse there is no any coloration or fullness in my NFJ&FXAUDIO FX502S or in other class D I have tried.
It should be inside a speaker box(1 active) and other 3 speaker should connect to it.
Needs to be good sounding, cheap, no PCB, and it will be powered by ordinary crappy smps.
I hope you haven't cooled off the topic and that someone will respond.😀
Hello everyone, I see it's been a while since the last post, it might be time to refresh this topic a bit.
I am new here, have some minor touch with eletronics and I would like to make an amplifier for my project. Source of components may be aliexpress becouse of free shipping to the door and high ratings of component such as Nichicon, Elna, Wima, chips and other, which if doesnt have the same quality as orginals are probably close to originals.
Im looking for an amplifier which should play stereo through 4channel 5-10W, to my 3" 4ohm full range speakers. I see this thread is all about tda7297 and other models are not covered well as this one, which I could use but it has too much distortion for my project, even with upgrades I did.(Wima mks4 1uF/63, diode removing and cap behind it.
I have tried Elna 4700uF instead of stock 2200uF, not good sound and Rubycon 220uF😄 too much midds.)I didnt have others.
I thought to use tda7379 or sta540 (I read somewhere its the same chip?), becouse I have read they sound the best among others. Please recomand better if there is.
I dont believe in class D like tpa3110, becouse there is no any coloration or fullness in my NFJ&FXAUDIO FX502S or in other class D I have tried.
It should be inside a speaker box(1 active) and other 3 speaker should connect to it.
Needs to be good sounding, cheap, no PCB, and it will be powered by ordinary crappy smps.
I hope you haven't cooled off the topic and that someone will respond.😀
Hi jwicaksana.
Sound is pretty good, colorfull, dynamics. Frequencies are unbalanced, but I see frequency response can be solved with proper capacitors value .Its just a normal distorsion, like ordinary amplifier. Its only a distortion that hides that awesome sound. I know it can be better with proper power supply, Dac..
But I just have option for crappy power supply, amp must be very cheap for my project.
Sound is pretty good, colorfull, dynamics. Frequencies are unbalanced, but I see frequency response can be solved with proper capacitors value .Its just a normal distorsion, like ordinary amplifier. Its only a distortion that hides that awesome sound. I know it can be better with proper power supply, Dac..
But I just have option for crappy power supply, amp must be very cheap for my project.
Attachments
Thanks for the pictures.
In what ways are the frequencies 'unbalanced'? Is it peak on the treble, or roll off on both treble and bass, etc?
Is the distortion audible in high volume? What is the sensitivity of your speakers?
You mentioned 4 channel and 4 Ohm speakers. The TDA7297 is a 2-channel amplifier. Did you parallel two speakers on each side? Just wanted to clarify, thank you
In what ways are the frequencies 'unbalanced'? Is it peak on the treble, or roll off on both treble and bass, etc?
Is the distortion audible in high volume? What is the sensitivity of your speakers?
You mentioned 4 channel and 4 Ohm speakers. The TDA7297 is a 2-channel amplifier. Did you parallel two speakers on each side? Just wanted to clarify, thank you
First of all u need a better power supply given at least 2 amps output.Second u need a bigger filter capacitors at least 4700uf.Dont expect good sound with this poor supply and filter capacitors of yours.
Im testing one 4ohm speaker on one channel with amp consuming around 5W so I dont think there is deficit in current right now, even with two speakers it should be enough for normal listening to music. Crappy power supply is MUST as I said, there is good reason for that, so I must pull out decent sound with what I have to.
With 4700uF and 9400uF highs are more noticeable and mids are weak without punch.
With 47uF highs are not noticeable enough, mids are punchy but there is too much mids everywhere.
With 220uF and 440uF its kind of balanced and mids are punchy.
I thought maybe difference is because they are all different brand.
All I know about speakers is that they are Haes speakers 4ohm.
I have read somewhere that tda7379 is more clear sounding amp and its more suitable for me becouse of 4channel, but here is all about tda7297 and I cant find anything about it.
Thank you for helping.🙂
With 4700uF and 9400uF highs are more noticeable and mids are weak without punch.
With 47uF highs are not noticeable enough, mids are punchy but there is too much mids everywhere.
With 220uF and 440uF its kind of balanced and mids are punchy.
I thought maybe difference is because they are all different brand.
All I know about speakers is that they are Haes speakers 4ohm.
I have read somewhere that tda7379 is more clear sounding amp and its more suitable for me becouse of 4channel, but here is all about tda7297 and I cant find anything about it.
Thank you for helping.🙂
