I have an old (like 50+ years) Ungar that I first used to assemble a Heathkit color TV kit. I think it's 30W and it runs at whatever temperature it sees fit...still works fine!
400 °C on my JBC. Why? Because heating a component a long time is worse then get-in/get-out with a high temperature. The heat will be localised and not have the time to creap up to the junction. With an iron you have no idea how much heat will be conducted away from the place you're soldering. So it can take far longer than is good for the component. If you use an oven this is not an issue because you can soak at a lower temp, then ramp-up, solder and get out.
Does it not depend on the job ? The solder? I choose the temperature on solder type and if its heavy copper pcb, solid core busbar etc.
In my opinion correct temperature is when soldering time is lowest, and leaves a nice result.
In my opinion correct temperature is when soldering time is lowest, and leaves a nice result.
Ersa RDS 80, 350°C for fast soldering. Keep in mind that above 300°C the pcb copper lines will loose their contact to FR4 base material. 3 seconds is a maximum time...
Pb60, SN40
Pb60, SN40
I have no idea 😂
On picture is what I use; small iron (20w) is for small things, smt, opamp, other small chips, big one (40w) is for everything else. In 30 years had no cold solder neither destroyed single component. But there is crap solder around, I still use old stock of leaded stuff.....
On picture is what I use; small iron (20w) is for small things, smt, opamp, other small chips, big one (40w) is for everything else. In 30 years had no cold solder neither destroyed single component. But there is crap solder around, I still use old stock of leaded stuff.....
I have a Antex er30 which works really well at a set temperature. Tips last a year.
I bought a cheap Weller and it burned through tips in 2 days. It ran far too hot.
I bought a cheap Weller and it burned through tips in 2 days. It ran far too hot.
Metcal STTC025 which translates into: Chisel 30° 1.0mm x 9.1mm (.04"x .33") 675°F/357°C Works for almosts everything with either SN63, SN62 or SN96 solder. I have larger tips for difficult jobs but rarely need them. Most of my Metcal tips are second hand and still work fine.
371°C/700°F 60W Weller WTCPT, various sizes of conical tips. I get 4 - 5 years out of a typical tip. Solder is SN63PB37 from MG Chemicals 0.031" primarily small TH parts and stubby conical tip and Kester 0.015" typically all SMD parts with the longer narrow conical tip.
I also have an Antex G/3U which is an ESD safe model with grounded tip. I use that solely for SMD parts, but not much lately. It's actually too light and the cord mass results in it coming off of the stand unpredictably.
Weller 6200N 150W gun for heavier work. Typically use 0.062" solder (Cardas) with that, but sees comparatively little use these days since most of what I do is SMD. I use it mainly to solder the copper foil I use for electrostatic shielding.
I like soldering components as quickly as possible. Have not had any traces lift on any boards I designed and purchased from JLCPCB, Oshpark or PCBCart. (This includes with significant rework.) I have had a very small number of lifted traces on very old Japanese hifi gear.
I also have an Antex G/3U which is an ESD safe model with grounded tip. I use that solely for SMD parts, but not much lately. It's actually too light and the cord mass results in it coming off of the stand unpredictably.
Weller 6200N 150W gun for heavier work. Typically use 0.062" solder (Cardas) with that, but sees comparatively little use these days since most of what I do is SMD. I use it mainly to solder the copper foil I use for electrostatic shielding.
I like soldering components as quickly as possible. Have not had any traces lift on any boards I designed and purchased from JLCPCB, Oshpark or PCBCart. (This includes with significant rework.) I have had a very small number of lifted traces on very old Japanese hifi gear.
400 °C Hakko FX-888.
Get in. Get out. Don't linger more than 2 seconds.
I also preheat boards that have a heavy copper pour / large ground planes to about 100°C using a repurposed 'George Foreman' grill.
Get in. Get out. Don't linger more than 2 seconds.
I also preheat boards that have a heavy copper pour / large ground planes to about 100°C using a repurposed 'George Foreman' grill.
This is how real men solder...👍 plus it lights up pcb nicely
600°F (315°C) was the only acceptable temperature in my job. 650°F (340°C) could be used only if using solder wick.
This was with 63/37 solder.
I use these temperatures at home too for construction and repair.
Higher temperatures can damage the PCB. Oxidation of the tip occurs very fast at higher temperatures, too.
This was with 63/37 solder.
I use these temperatures at home too for construction and repair.
Higher temperatures can damage the PCB. Oxidation of the tip occurs very fast at higher temperatures, too.
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