400 °C on my JBC. Why? Because heating a component a long time is worse then get-in/get-out with a high temperature. The heat will be localised and not have the time to creap up to the junction. With an iron you have no idea how much heat will be conducted away from the place you're soldering. So it can take far longer than is good for the component. If you use an oven this is not an issue because you can soak at a lower temp, then ramp-up, solder and get out.
371°C/700°F 60W Weller WTCPT, various sizes of conical tips. I get 4 - 5 years out of a typical tip. Solder is SN63PB37 from MG Chemicals 0.031" primarily small TH parts and stubby conical tip and Kester 0.015" typically all SMD parts with the longer narrow conical tip.
I also have an Antex G/3U which is an ESD safe model with grounded tip. I use that solely for SMD parts, but not much lately. It's actually too light and the cord mass results in it coming off of the stand unpredictably.
Weller 6200N 150W gun for heavier work. Typically use 0.062" solder (Cardas) with that, but sees comparatively little use these days since most of what I do is SMD. I use it mainly to solder the copper foil I use for electrostatic shielding.
I like soldering components as quickly as possible. Have not had any traces lift on any boards I designed and purchased from JLCPCB, Oshpark or PCBCart. (This includes with significant rework.) I have had a very small number of lifted traces on very old Japanese hifi gear.
I also have an Antex G/3U which is an ESD safe model with grounded tip. I use that solely for SMD parts, but not much lately. It's actually too light and the cord mass results in it coming off of the stand unpredictably.
Weller 6200N 150W gun for heavier work. Typically use 0.062" solder (Cardas) with that, but sees comparatively little use these days since most of what I do is SMD. I use it mainly to solder the copper foil I use for electrostatic shielding.
I like soldering components as quickly as possible. Have not had any traces lift on any boards I designed and purchased from JLCPCB, Oshpark or PCBCart. (This includes with significant rework.) I have had a very small number of lifted traces on very old Japanese hifi gear.
600°F (315°C) was the only acceptable temperature in my job. 650°F (340°C) could be used only if using solder wick.
This was with 63/37 solder.
I use these temperatures at home too for construction and repair.
Higher temperatures can damage the PCB. Oxidation of the tip occurs very fast at higher temperatures, too.
This was with 63/37 solder.
I use these temperatures at home too for construction and repair.
Higher temperatures can damage the PCB. Oxidation of the tip occurs very fast at higher temperatures, too.
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