solder stuff
The brake cleaner we got here in Ky is Tetrachloroethane... not tetrachloroethylene (perchlor)... that's dry cleaning solvent.
Big difference... perchlor was one of my favorite solvents used in a vapor degreaser when we were building deuterium-fluoride space lasers 26 years ago... great stuff run @ 150F @ 300 psi through manifolds... removed everything not made of metal
Maybe I should try listening to some electroformed joints (you heard it here first) and eliminate the solder problem(?) altogether...
Can't say I spend much time listening to my joints, though... except the creaking that 56 years of age creates while I'm trying to move my latest subwoofer creation to find it's "sweet" spot...
auplater
The brake cleaner we got here in Ky is Tetrachloroethane... not tetrachloroethylene (perchlor)... that's dry cleaning solvent.
Big difference... perchlor was one of my favorite solvents used in a vapor degreaser when we were building deuterium-fluoride space lasers 26 years ago... great stuff run @ 150F @ 300 psi through manifolds... removed everything not made of metal
Maybe I should try listening to some electroformed joints (you heard it here first) and eliminate the solder problem(?) altogether...
Can't say I spend much time listening to my joints, though... except the creaking that 56 years of age creates while I'm trying to move my latest subwoofer creation to find it's "sweet" spot...
auplater
Re: solder stuff
A decent sub should not have a sweetspot in the room...it should BE the room...
Nice avatar there...is it new?
Cheers, John
auplater said:while I'm trying to move my latest subwoofer creation to find it's "sweet" spot...
auplater
A decent sub should not have a sweetspot in the room...it should BE the room...
Nice avatar there...is it new?
Cheers, John
Re: Re: solder stuff
I agree, bbuuuttt, there is the WAF issue.. she's pretty forgiving, as I've pretty much dominated the major living area of the house with audio stuff...
actually, I'm trying to subdue some nasty <30 Hz room modes to stop cracking the plaster joints with a second sub channel... seems to be working, but the cat runs for the bed..
>Nice avatar there...is it new?<
thanks... not sure where it came from... just showed up on my harddrive dated 3/17/06...
auplater
jneutron said:
I agree, bbuuuttt, there is the WAF issue.. she's pretty forgiving, as I've pretty much dominated the major living area of the house with audio stuff...
actually, I'm trying to subdue some nasty <30 Hz room modes to stop cracking the plaster joints with a second sub channel... seems to be working, but the cat runs for the bed..
>Nice avatar there...is it new?<
thanks... not sure where it came from... just showed up on my harddrive dated 3/17/06...
auplater
Hi,
I have no experience, but the copper content should save erosion of the copper bit if unplated.
As far as I know it is not eutectic, therefore it will be pastey as it cools.
Does the copper wire that is being solder get eroded if the solder has no copper content? It will be a one off transfer so could be irrelevant. What happens?
I have no experience, but the copper content should save erosion of the copper bit if unplated.
As far as I know it is not eutectic, therefore it will be pastey as it cools.
Does the copper wire that is being solder get eroded if the solder has no copper content? It will be a one off transfer so could be irrelevant. What happens?
Hi lumanauw,
That solder is good. It was sold under the name "savbit" because it didn't eat your soldering tip. In the old days. 🙄
Try not to breathe any smoke, it will not kill you immediately.
-Chris
That solder is good. It was sold under the name "savbit" because it didn't eat your soldering tip. In the old days. 🙄
Try not to breathe any smoke, it will not kill you immediately.
-Chris
I found a spool of Multicore SN62 Wrap 3 solder but I don't know what the other elements are in it. Would anyone know? I can get other stuff on the top off. I searched all the info online and couldn't find anything.
I'll bet it is 62Sn, 36Pb, 2Ag.
Only because it was popular, and when you see 62% tin instead 63% it usually means that there was an additional element beyond lead... and that is usually silver.
Multicore seems to be almost out the solder wire business... or so their website would suggest.
🙂
Only because it was popular, and when you see 62% tin instead 63% it usually means that there was an additional element beyond lead... and that is usually silver.
Multicore seems to be almost out the solder wire business... or so their website would suggest.
🙂
k. That is what I was guessing but wasn't sure. It says low temp. hand written on it. Is that a low temp. combination. That is what I didn't know or if anything with 62SN was low temp.
of course, I was looking for something else, and I accidentally ran into the exact folks who make (almost!) everyone's high end solder at all those audiophile companies, and ended up being directly connected to them. oops.
All I can say, is that any eutectic mix and rosin mix I could possibly desire is available, if I can come up with a specific request. And certainly not one spool or roll at a time. like 500lbs, minimum. Anyone want a roll of really good custom solder? 😀 Price is good, as you may imagine.
This is the exact point where I eneded up getting off of the AVS Forum, as I was no longer a end user and too close to the manufacturers. Too much potential for interference and 'isssues' to rear their ugly head. At what point do you cease being an end user,and become a manufacturer? It's not a specific point, it's kinda all over the map. Here's a potential one, again.
Didn't take as long this time.
All I can say, is that any eutectic mix and rosin mix I could possibly desire is available, if I can come up with a specific request. And certainly not one spool or roll at a time. like 500lbs, minimum. Anyone want a roll of really good custom solder? 😀 Price is good, as you may imagine.
This is the exact point where I eneded up getting off of the AVS Forum, as I was no longer a end user and too close to the manufacturers. Too much potential for interference and 'isssues' to rear their ugly head. At what point do you cease being an end user,and become a manufacturer? It's not a specific point, it's kinda all over the map. Here's a potential one, again.
Didn't take as long this time.
Hi
Pretty ornery stuff. 5-core 0,7mm Sn62 LMP (Tin/Lead/Silver) which I don't like very much as it seems to need a bit more heat and if soldered to copper, I have to 'work' the bit over the copper a bit to make it flow properly.
And also resin core solder described as 60T2 0,71mm which is my preferred solder. No problems here.
I have a couple of localy made soldering stations with digital temp indication. Btw, if you solder a normal pcb and smalish components, at which temperature is your iron set? Mine usually in the range 300 to 350 C. If I solder very fine cart. wires say 0,02mm dia, the temperature is set even lower.
bulgin
Pretty ornery stuff. 5-core 0,7mm Sn62 LMP (Tin/Lead/Silver) which I don't like very much as it seems to need a bit more heat and if soldered to copper, I have to 'work' the bit over the copper a bit to make it flow properly.
And also resin core solder described as 60T2 0,71mm which is my preferred solder. No problems here.
I have a couple of localy made soldering stations with digital temp indication. Btw, if you solder a normal pcb and smalish components, at which temperature is your iron set? Mine usually in the range 300 to 350 C. If I solder very fine cart. wires say 0,02mm dia, the temperature is set even lower.
bulgin
I like the "Wonder Solder UltraClear" that Michael Percy sells. Made by TRT.
Solders great, seems to sound good, as far as I can tell.
Don't know what's in it.
I've tried a few silver solders and didn't like them much.
Solders great, seems to sound good, as far as I can tell.
Don't know what's in it.
I've tried a few silver solders and didn't like them much.
Bulgin, SN62 solder is the lowest temp solder that is normally available for sale. I think that your problem is related to the flux associated with the solder.
Hi John,
That sounds reasonable. Bulgin, do you clean the component leads and copper before soldering? I do this without thinking these days.
-Chris
That sounds reasonable. Bulgin, do you clean the component leads and copper before soldering? I do this without thinking these days.
-Chris
cardas eutectic solder
Hi,
I bought some cardas eutectic solder lead free.
I have a circuit specialist soldering station.
I have tried from 700-800 deg. F with the cardas solder.
The joints always cool down cloudy and not shiny.
Is this normal?
It also seems not to spread out as quickly, not enough
flux?
Also, having trouble with the solder not melting at times(?)
it's a new solder station and tip.
I've used standard kester solder for years, always melted
quickly and comes out shiny.
any suggestions or tips with the cardas solder? some
method to using it?
thx
Hi,
I bought some cardas eutectic solder lead free.
I have a circuit specialist soldering station.
I have tried from 700-800 deg. F with the cardas solder.
The joints always cool down cloudy and not shiny.
Is this normal?
It also seems not to spread out as quickly, not enough
flux?
Also, having trouble with the solder not melting at times(?)
it's a new solder station and tip.
I've used standard kester solder for years, always melted
quickly and comes out shiny.
any suggestions or tips with the cardas solder? some
method to using it?
thx
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