Spiral bits do have their advantages but to suggest that a straight cut bit is inappropriate is misguided.
Why would Amana, Whiteside and other premium bit producers bother to still offer such an inferior tool? I use them routinely without chipping or tear out. Additionally, my 20 year old Porter Cable 890 has cut an awful lot of 6 and 8 quarter hardwood at full depth with 1/2" straight cut bits without complaint. I'll be sure to pipe up when it burns out.
Why would Amana, Whiteside and other premium bit producers bother to still offer such an inferior tool? I use them routinely without chipping or tear out. Additionally, my 20 year old Porter Cable 890 has cut an awful lot of 6 and 8 quarter hardwood at full depth with 1/2" straight cut bits without complaint. I'll be sure to pipe up when it burns out.
Yeah, you are right. He might need a straight cut bit for the speaker opening cut out along with a compass jig as you pointed out earlier. But nothing as expensive as the bits for CNC machines that he discussed. They would an overkill.
For most of the rest of the cabinet construction he will be best served with straight bits and/or round over bits that have a bearing on the end like pictured in Post #17. Then he can guide his cuts with the edge of the board.
So, I don't see any real need for a spiral bit. It would be an expensive and unnecessary item at this point. Better to put money into something else.
For most of the rest of the cabinet construction he will be best served with straight bits and/or round over bits that have a bearing on the end like pictured in Post #17. Then he can guide his cuts with the edge of the board.
So, I don't see any real need for a spiral bit. It would be an expensive and unnecessary item at this point. Better to put money into something else.
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That will work with a compass jig. Be steady as you complete the circle and cutout is freed. If you choose to make an inside template from 1/4" ply or whatever you have that's suitable, a pattern makers bit would be in order. They feature a top bearing (to follow the template) that is the same diameter as the cutter. The same may be accomplished on a router table with a bottom bearing, or flush cut bit.
10-4, HF don't sell top bearing bits, at least what in my local store.
So I will start looking around the web
So I will start looking around the web
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What's the old adage? Only a rich man can afford cheap tools? Apologies for being a 'downer' but routers with 1/4" collets, and 1/4" bits, should only be used for trim work. When your router proves frustrating, and it will, buy a good, 1/2" collet, 1 1/2 HP, plunge router. And buy good bits. Is there a difference between cheap and expensive? Yes, there are differences in grades of carbide (don't buy HSS bits, we're not talking drill bits). Whiteside have consistently made the highest rated router bits and would be my recommendation. And they can be re-sharpened by a component shop. (And, before someone rips me a new one, I'm sure there are some who have been using the same 1/4", 1/2 HP, router for years, and think I'm wrong. But, hey, some people still drive '82 K-cars, too.)
Although not what you asked, I doubt the cheap router you bought will actually work as a plunge router. The cheap ones usually don't, you will have to sort out some time on how to make it work OK as a fixed router by tightening up the various slide clamps as much as possible. If that doesn't work, you will probably have to rig up an additional clamp of some kind, maybe as easily as just a hose clamp or two.
I don't see any real need for straight bits.
I have not used my straight bits since first using spiral down bits, other than when the spiral down bits have been damaged.
That said, if I had not compared spiral down bits to straight bits after they were suggested by a cabinet maker who did far more work, I'd never have switched.
No, neither do most of my straight bits.
For production work I use template guides.
Oh yeah, don’t use cutting tools from HF!
Spend the $$$ on Amana or equivalent.
I try and rough cut using a jig saw leaving 1/8” (3mm) to reduce the load and heat from a full cut.If I did make cuts where the cutter is buried, I would do it in a couple passes.
Spend the $$$ on Amana or equivalent.
I try and rough cut using a jig saw leaving 1/8” (3mm) to reduce the load and heat from a full cut.If I did make cuts where the cutter is buried, I would do it in a couple passes.
This set from HF looks to be a good starter set for a tight budget.
https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-router-bit-set-5-piece-58749.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-router-bit-set-5-piece-58749.html
- Spiral cutter for use with your circle jig of choice;
- Flush trim bit for cabinet edges, and could follow a template you clamp beneath the wood after rough cutting the hole, for handles and the like;
- Rabbeting bit for recessing tweeters or plate amp flanges - you'd just need to pick up some different diameter bearings for it to make it more versatile;
- Roundover for cabinet edges;
- Mortise bit you could use to cut slots to layout braces and internal panels of horns etc. using 3/4" material.
Haa, is not just the bits but the skills with those cuts to assemble the panels....
Argggggg, why i started in this hobby sooooo late in life.... 🙁
my funds are very nimble... there is no CNC people around in my town... the closest is around 200 miles
and they charge 100 bucks to cut a sheet of ply , plus 200 set up fee for the plans....
seeing that i discarded that route and start getting my humble tools and will do it myself
i mean... will start the step learning curve...
at least i can draw now in sketchup simple cabinet plans
and the 3d projections of the cabinets
still learning all the curves and domes shapes
and since i cant find a driver to add in my drawings, i making it myself...
is not as easy as it seems cause there is a lot of chamfers and angles
watching you tube tutorials along the way
the cone thing
and the magnet
now i the hard part is the back structure that hold all together
Argggggg, why i started in this hobby sooooo late in life.... 🙁
my funds are very nimble... there is no CNC people around in my town... the closest is around 200 miles
and they charge 100 bucks to cut a sheet of ply , plus 200 set up fee for the plans....
seeing that i discarded that route and start getting my humble tools and will do it myself
i mean... will start the step learning curve...
at least i can draw now in sketchup simple cabinet plans
and the 3d projections of the cabinets
still learning all the curves and domes shapes
and since i cant find a driver to add in my drawings, i making it myself...
is not as easy as it seems cause there is a lot of chamfers and angles
watching you tube tutorials along the way
and the magnet
now i the hard part is the back structure that hold all together
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Bushing/guide sets are a useful addition but not a direct replacement for bearing guided bits. If you make any templates sized with the inherent offset accounted for, make sure to label them with the correct bushing/bit combination required. Their use does allow for some adjustment to the opening or part size with different bushing/bit combinations.
Cheap tools rarely if ever warrant consideration in my trade (not woodworking) but the hobby budget sometimes boils down to buy cheap or do without. If buying power tools from HF or the like, do so when you need them. Having the 90 day warranty expire before the tool is put to use and then experiencing an early failure stinks.
Cheap tools rarely if ever warrant consideration in my trade (not woodworking) but the hobby budget sometimes boils down to buy cheap or do without. If buying power tools from HF or the like, do so when you need them. Having the 90 day warranty expire before the tool is put to use and then experiencing an early failure stinks.