Guys,
For plywood (I will not use MDF)
What router bit or bits do you use and or recommend for sub and top cabinets building.
Baffle ,handles and back plate jacks or plate amps.
I just scored a budget router that was in clearance to be my beginner training tool.
For plywood (I will not use MDF)
What router bit or bits do you use and or recommend for sub and top cabinets building.
Baffle ,handles and back plate jacks or plate amps.
I just scored a budget router that was in clearance to be my beginner training tool.
1/2" shank preferably, straight cut for using a compass jig, a pattern makers bit (top bearing) if using an inside template. If making an inside template make sure to leave enough room to clamp it down without interfering with your router base.
For cutouts people tend to use too large straight bits.
I typical use smaller spiral bits for cutouts.
Larger bits are cutting more material and its gonna burn up the bit or the router.
For round overs and chamfers to follow the cutout you need bearing followers.
You could basically write a book or rather long post to cover router technique.
For simple cutouts and round overs which is main part of cabinets.
Same as above. There is actually pretty decent kits at harbor freight as well.
Usually a few round overs, straight bits with bearing follower. And possible have to buy
small spiral trim bit separate.
Easier to review and see, thank god for Youtube.
Which has a wide array of basic to advanced techniques
I typical use smaller spiral bits for cutouts.
Larger bits are cutting more material and its gonna burn up the bit or the router.
For round overs and chamfers to follow the cutout you need bearing followers.
You could basically write a book or rather long post to cover router technique.
For simple cutouts and round overs which is main part of cabinets.
Same as above. There is actually pretty decent kits at harbor freight as well.
Usually a few round overs, straight bits with bearing follower. And possible have to buy
small spiral trim bit separate.
Easier to review and see, thank god for Youtube.
Which has a wide array of basic to advanced techniques
The type of bits I use are listed as CNC
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...=scene:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from:
You asked specifically for ply. I like this type as it shaves the surface as well as mill the step. I hate gouging ply and ply machines poorly anyway. I liken it to cutting ply bevel with a saw vs plane. My experience is with waterproof types like marine and exterior only, interior type plywood might work differently
Also, lifted splinters at the edges are 'See You in Northern Territory' of things to fill for painting and such
I like clean edges without too much fussing with sanding, as usually splinters and glass cloth is a pain. I can't bring myself to use unglassed ply as to me its not a complete material unless in a sandwich with glass and epoxy.
A scrim of the lightest weave cloth and epoxy locks the very thin face layer and prevents things like checking (grain opening up with time and environmental reasons). It also significantly adds to the stiffness of the panel and at the end of the day makes for the best surface to apply any type of finish too
Sorry, I didn't have time to go into details earlier on my way. It's been a big day with a new CV and rear hub fitted to the Subaru. Also, this feels like déjà vu, didn't you go over this already recently?
Just a straight bit 3/8" (Imperial guessing mode) for straight and circle cuts and a 1/8" or 1/4" round over bit for all visible corners. I always use a scrap piece to set the round over bit just right, before rounding anything.
If you're still learning, an 1/4" straight bit will probably break a few times before you recognize the correct pressure and speed for your router., whilst a 10 - 12 mm cutting bit will be much more forgiving. Routers tend to 'scream/ distort' lightly when you push them to hard. Start with about an 1/8" depth increase per cut, so 5 - 7 passes for 3/4" ply. The last pass I like to over shoot by at least 1/16" for smoother surface finishes, my work table has a sacrificial surface for that purpose.
For copying handles I use a template with 2" wide double sided tape and a guided bit. The bearing can be on the top or bottom, which influences your template style.
If you're still learning, an 1/4" straight bit will probably break a few times before you recognize the correct pressure and speed for your router., whilst a 10 - 12 mm cutting bit will be much more forgiving. Routers tend to 'scream/ distort' lightly when you push them to hard. Start with about an 1/8" depth increase per cut, so 5 - 7 passes for 3/4" ply. The last pass I like to over shoot by at least 1/16" for smoother surface finishes, my work table has a sacrificial surface for that purpose.
For copying handles I use a template with 2" wide double sided tape and a guided bit. The bearing can be on the top or bottom, which influences your template style.
Routing holes in Baltic birch plywood, I use a 1/4“ carbide down-spiral for the first pass to prevent tearout and get a nice clean edge, then switch to a carbide up-spiral for better chip removal for the remaining passes. 1/8" depth per pass.
For MDF, the up-spiral works well for everything. Carbide is worth the extra cost, as it will better tolerate the heat and glues in MDF and plywood.
For MDF, the up-spiral works well for everything. Carbide is worth the extra cost, as it will better tolerate the heat and glues in MDF and plywood.
You can go one of two ways. Either buy a complete set of bits like this one from Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-C...2c2086d5e4f41c1eb99ce02f19f93781&gclsrc=3p.ds
Or wait and buy individual bits as you find out what you need.
Note that the set referenced from HD is very cheap and will probably dull quickly, but still could be a good way to start. Spending more will get you better quality.
I prefer spiral down bits for through cuts, as they move the sawdust away from the tool, and if you do it right, directly into the trash bin along with the cut out.
First time I used a spiral down bit I was amazed how much less sawdust ended up all over in the shop compared to the straight bits I'd used for years before, and how much faster cutting it was.
I use a 1/4" carbide bit. There is an optimal speed to move the bit through the material. I'm very bad at woodworking. Maybe someone else here can speak to that. When I started out I think that I burned up my old tool steel bit by going too slowly or stopping.
That's a good router. I have the same one. I like the stepped vertical guide. It has 1/4" depth increments when you turn it.
In my latest builds I have been 3D printing sub baffle sections for the tweeter and midrange as I can dial in everything to a fraction of a millimeter and have perfect repeatability. Even a low quality 3D printer can do a good job on a baffle and used printers are nearly free or very cheap on craigslist or FB marketplace.
That's a good router. I have the same one. I like the stepped vertical guide. It has 1/4" depth increments when you turn it.
In my latest builds I have been 3D printing sub baffle sections for the tweeter and midrange as I can dial in everything to a fraction of a millimeter and have perfect repeatability. Even a low quality 3D printer can do a good job on a baffle and used printers are nearly free or very cheap on craigslist or FB marketplace.
Eat your noddle's, Learn something new every day little Grasshopper !
Wow,
those last pic looks like high end studio monitors!!
if they sound as they look you are golden !
1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch carbide round over bits all using the same bearings, and some replacement bearings.
Most of the subwoofers are built using 3/4" ply, so I've worn out more 3/8" roundovers than anything else.
I round the pieces before assembly to avoid cutting through screws, which tends to wear out bits rapidly.
Make sure you wear good fitting NRR 30dB (or higher) hearing protection, like the 3M Peltor Optime 105 earmuffs.
Using ear plugs in addition is a good idea, safety glasses, masks, hair all reduce the NRR rating.
I made the mistake of thinking "deadphones are deadphones", and found out too late I could have reduced my hearing loss by a good amount if I'd worn muffs with greater attenuation- some muffs have as little as NRR15 dB.
I found this compression Bits
altough not cheap they suppose to work wonders
https://bitsbits.com/product-category/cnc-bits/compression/
FOR ROUTERS
https://bitsbits.com/product-category/whiteside-router-bits/compression-router-bits/
altough not cheap they suppose to work wonders
FOR CNC
https://bitsbits.com/product-category/cnc-bits/compression/
FOR ROUTERS
https://bitsbits.com/product-category/whiteside-router-bits/compression-router-bits/
These are for CNC machines and they are not at all appropriate for the handheld router that you are planning to use.
You need bits with guide bearings like those weltersys suggested in Post #17 above.
You need bits with guide bearings like those weltersys suggested in Post #17 above.
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