Hello Peter Daniel,
What brand are they ?
What are the characteristics of 38 cm version ?
Are you pleased with the sound of them ?
Best regards,
Kristijan Kljucaric
What brand are they ?
What are the characteristics of 38 cm version ?
Are you pleased with the sound of them ?
Best regards,
Kristijan Kljucaric
Re: Not enough pictures
even thou they roll off due to baffle cancellation, they still try to reproduce all that bass... wouldn't some sort of HP help to clean up the mids? I have always said that the biggest benefit from a sub is better mids.
dave
Peter Daniel said:Mids don't have high pass crossover since open baffle makes for it.
even thou they roll off due to baffle cancellation, they still try to reproduce all that bass... wouldn't some sort of HP help to clean up the mids? I have always said that the biggest benefit from a sub is better mids.
dave
Actually I had a series cap at mid/tweet amp (Hovland 0.022) and it seemed to sound better. I'm in transition process and Aleph is only temporary. My new amp will probably have input cap as well. Although it's still a tradeoff since without cap a signal is more pure, but there is more strain on midwoofers. Those Triangles are pretty much full range drivers and they seem to be OK when driving full range. I will have to make some sonic comparisons.
Peter,
Your system look great. You are the consummate DIY'er. When are you going to build the other speaker?😀 (Just kidding).
I haven't heard or looked closely at the Wilson's, although I hear nothing but good things about them. Do they use the open baffle arrangement as well?
(After Dave's post)
What keeps the rear radiation from canceling the front radiation in the bass region?
I posted after Dave's question, but I'm still "baffled" (excuse me) about the 15" bass cancellation.
Rodd Yamashita
Your system look great. You are the consummate DIY'er. When are you going to build the other speaker?😀 (Just kidding).
I haven't heard or looked closely at the Wilson's, although I hear nothing but good things about them. Do they use the open baffle arrangement as well?
(After Dave's post)
What keeps the rear radiation from canceling the front radiation in the bass region?
I posted after Dave's question, but I'm still "baffled" (excuse me) about the 15" bass cancellation.
Rodd Yamashita
I don't know about WAMM but the other Wilsons are not open baffle.
Usually cancellation is taken care by electrical circuit which compensates for that. I didn't need that in my design. Why I'm not really shure, maybe it slope pedestal (which is filled with sand BTW) or maybe it's room response. They go pretty flat to 25Hz, I was always thinking about active correction, but didn't get to it yet.
Usually cancellation is taken care by electrical circuit which compensates for that. I didn't need that in my design. Why I'm not really shure, maybe it slope pedestal (which is filled with sand BTW) or maybe it's room response. They go pretty flat to 25Hz, I was always thinking about active correction, but didn't get to it yet.
Peter Daniel said:Usually cancellation is taken care by electrical circuit which compensates for that. I didn't need that in my design. Why I'm not really shure, maybe it slope pedestal (which is filled with sand BTW) or maybe it's room response. They go pretty flat to 25Hz, I was always thinking about active correction, but didn't get to it yet.
You just answered the question i didn't have a chance to ask. I find it amazing that you are getting as low as that. I was guessing that you should start getting dipole cancelation somewhere between 100 & 200 Hz...
dave
That is true for Triangle mid-woofers. They start to cancell around 140Hz, but Focal Audiom woofers, crossed around 100Hz with 3rd order filter, go almost flat to 25Hz. Puzzles me too, but I guess I shouldn't complain.😉
My system is more like an organized collection of Audio parts and equipment. More then 25 years later, it's still in a state of flux.
Speakers
Tri-Amp, 4-Way, Sat/Sub
Stereo subs - TAD 1601a in a 4.5cu.ft. ported box (End Tables).
LP = 80Hz to 125Hz, 18db/octave dependig on how it sounds. Over damped alignment with a Nakamichi SB100 bass boost = flat to 22Hz (Theoretically).
Low Active Xover - 25 year old Heathkit AD 1702, slighly tweaked.
Dual Stereo Mid-Bass - Dual JBL LE10A's in a 1.4cu.ft. sealed box (Modified Lancer77 Boxes)
HP = 90Hz to 150Hz, 6db/octave depending on how it sounds. Critically damped alignment with f3 = 75Hz
LP = 1200HZ, 12db/octave.
High Active Xover - 20 year old Nakamichi EC100, stock.
Mid-Horn - JBL LE85 with 2312 horn and slant lens, very tweaked.
HP = 1200HZ, 12db/octave.
LP = 9000Hz, 12db/octave.
High Passive Xover, Custom design from HT's Xover Pro.
High-Horn - JBL 077 Slotted Diffraction Horn. Stock.
HP = 9000Hz, 12db/octave.
See the speakers here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4840
Amps and Pre-Amps and Inputs
Subs - NAD 2600, Stock
Mid-Bass - Bryston 4BST, Stock
Horns - NAD 2100, Stock
Apt Pre-Amplifier
- Technics SL1700 with Grado G2+, Slightly Tweaked.
- Nakamichi BX300 Cassette Deck
- Nakamichi OMS4A CD Player
Audio Research SP4 Pre-Amp
- Yamaha AM/FM Tuner
- Toshiba DVD Player
- Sony TV and VHS
Any item is subject to change at a moments notice. Plan to swap around pre-amps, Apt for AR. Working on an Aleph for the horns. I also have a pair of TAD 4001's drivers and McCauley 455 horns that I might get to keep??? That is, unless someone makes an offer I can't refuse.
Rodd Yamashita
Speakers
Tri-Amp, 4-Way, Sat/Sub
Stereo subs - TAD 1601a in a 4.5cu.ft. ported box (End Tables).
LP = 80Hz to 125Hz, 18db/octave dependig on how it sounds. Over damped alignment with a Nakamichi SB100 bass boost = flat to 22Hz (Theoretically).
Low Active Xover - 25 year old Heathkit AD 1702, slighly tweaked.
Dual Stereo Mid-Bass - Dual JBL LE10A's in a 1.4cu.ft. sealed box (Modified Lancer77 Boxes)
HP = 90Hz to 150Hz, 6db/octave depending on how it sounds. Critically damped alignment with f3 = 75Hz
LP = 1200HZ, 12db/octave.
High Active Xover - 20 year old Nakamichi EC100, stock.
Mid-Horn - JBL LE85 with 2312 horn and slant lens, very tweaked.
HP = 1200HZ, 12db/octave.
LP = 9000Hz, 12db/octave.
High Passive Xover, Custom design from HT's Xover Pro.
High-Horn - JBL 077 Slotted Diffraction Horn. Stock.
HP = 9000Hz, 12db/octave.
See the speakers here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4840
Amps and Pre-Amps and Inputs
Subs - NAD 2600, Stock
Mid-Bass - Bryston 4BST, Stock
Horns - NAD 2100, Stock
Apt Pre-Amplifier
- Technics SL1700 with Grado G2+, Slightly Tweaked.
- Nakamichi BX300 Cassette Deck
- Nakamichi OMS4A CD Player
Audio Research SP4 Pre-Amp
- Yamaha AM/FM Tuner
- Toshiba DVD Player
- Sony TV and VHS
Any item is subject to change at a moments notice. Plan to swap around pre-amps, Apt for AR. Working on an Aleph for the horns. I also have a pair of TAD 4001's drivers and McCauley 455 horns that I might get to keep??? That is, unless someone makes an offer I can't refuse.
Rodd Yamashita
yamaha rx-v495 reciver 230 watts 80per channel in 8ohm mode
4 mian/front channels
1 center
2rears
and sub output
and a pioneer 4-10 horn tweeter unknown specs
main-fisher speakers from 70s dont know specs
main-boston acoustics a-40s (aquiredfree) mids
oops
replaced with fisher mids frim a h.t. box system
alpinetype-e 10" subwoffer in 2cf box (still tweaking)
cd's- use panasonic personal cd player
sony ps2-dvd/games
4 mian/front channels
1 center
2rears
and sub output
and a pioneer 4-10 horn tweeter unknown specs
main-fisher speakers from 70s dont know specs
main-boston acoustics a-40s (aquiredfree) mids

replaced with fisher mids frim a h.t. box system
alpinetype-e 10" subwoffer in 2cf box (still tweaking)
cd's- use panasonic personal cd player
sony ps2-dvd/games
CD players:
Modded Cambridge Audio CD300 (now in pieces)
Regent DVD/CD player ($39 bucks at wallmart!!)
Pre-amps:
Morrison ELAD (mostly collecting dust.. sometimes used for recording)
ASL Head OTL pre-amp (in use... all the time!)
Amps:
PTP crimped LM3875 stereo amp
Vintage Pilotone tube monoblocks from the '50's (dual 6L6 appx 15 watts each)
Speakers:
Meadowlark Swifts (awaiting modifications🙂
PSB Alpha A/V's (modified cabinets)
Axiom 2ti's (modified tweeter with LPG 26t)
Modded Cambridge Audio CD300 (now in pieces)
Regent DVD/CD player ($39 bucks at wallmart!!)
Pre-amps:
Morrison ELAD (mostly collecting dust.. sometimes used for recording)
ASL Head OTL pre-amp (in use... all the time!)
Amps:
PTP crimped LM3875 stereo amp
Vintage Pilotone tube monoblocks from the '50's (dual 6L6 appx 15 watts each)
Speakers:
Meadowlark Swifts (awaiting modifications🙂
PSB Alpha A/V's (modified cabinets)
Axiom 2ti's (modified tweeter with LPG 26t)
Main:
Pro-Ject Perspective Turntable feeding a Lehmann Black Cube (soon to be replaced by a Bottlehead Seduction in construction)
Modified Toshiba sd-3950 DVD player
Bottlehead Foreplay 12Au7 Pre with various mods
Bottlehead Parabees 300B SET amps (8W)
Supravox 215-2000 EXC field coil drivers on JE Labs open baffle
Helper T900A Fostex Tweeter with 0.68 cap
Belden 89259 ICs and speaker cables
Bedroom:
LM3875 Gainclone
Fostex Fe103E in recommended backloaded horns
Portable:
One channel gainclone with a Jordan JX92s in a 3 litre box, all within a Pelican case (including, of course, an iPod)
More Portable:
CMoy headphone amp and Ety 4 headphones
Pro-Ject Perspective Turntable feeding a Lehmann Black Cube (soon to be replaced by a Bottlehead Seduction in construction)
Modified Toshiba sd-3950 DVD player
Bottlehead Foreplay 12Au7 Pre with various mods
Bottlehead Parabees 300B SET amps (8W)
Supravox 215-2000 EXC field coil drivers on JE Labs open baffle
Helper T900A Fostex Tweeter with 0.68 cap
Belden 89259 ICs and speaker cables
Bedroom:
LM3875 Gainclone
Fostex Fe103E in recommended backloaded horns
Portable:
One channel gainclone with a Jordan JX92s in a 3 litre box, all within a Pelican case (including, of course, an iPod)
More Portable:
CMoy headphone amp and Ety 4 headphones
Front End : Vinyl- Oracle Delphi MkIII Alphason HRmcs Ortofon mc3000II, Whest M20 Phonostage (wow!!), CD- Copland CDA288, Passive stepped attenuator, Denon POA 6600 Monoblocks (Yeah, ok guys.....No need to be so smug about ur class 'A' amps.... I'm about to embark on Aleph-2 mono's !!) Last but not least...Apogee Caliper Signatures {after auditioning 'Jules' Apogee stages' - cheers dude!}, Stax SRM-1mkII Electrostatic H/phones 😀
B in touch !
-Andy-
B in touch !
-Andy-
My system:
Not having a CD-Transport at the moment. Lending a Cary 303/200.
dCS Delius 24/192 DAC/pre
Spark SC-110 tube line stage (not currently in use)
McIntosh MC402 Power amplifier
Ton Art Etera II Fullrange Dipole loudspeakers.
Regards
Not having a CD-Transport at the moment. Lending a Cary 303/200.
dCS Delius 24/192 DAC/pre
Spark SC-110 tube line stage (not currently in use)
McIntosh MC402 Power amplifier
Ton Art Etera II Fullrange Dipole loudspeakers.
Regards
None of my kit is modified as yet and none of it is DIY either, but since I started posting on DIYaudio I've been undertaking a degree in electronics that should be wrapped up within the next few months (I am into DIY - I just don't get the time!).
Hopefully then I will get the time to finally finish my biamped P3A project that I started before uni almost 4 years ago! (or design my own amp from scratch now I can 😉).
Ok so here's the system at present:
Denon DVD2900 DVD player,
Denon AVC-A11SR surround amp,
B&W 601-S3 fronts
B&W 601-S3 rears
B&W LCR60 center
Sony 24" CRT TV - quite old, but I've kept it for the fact that nothing I have seen at any reasonable price has even come close until the new wave of HD plasmas has come out here in the UK over the past year.
To my eyes/ears it's a pretty good system - although I'll be biamping when I get round to it and getting a decent plasma to top it off.
I'm also hoping to design/build some speakers based on dipoles (but with a twist) - again if I get the time!
Hopefully then I will get the time to finally finish my biamped P3A project that I started before uni almost 4 years ago! (or design my own amp from scratch now I can 😉).
Ok so here's the system at present:
Denon DVD2900 DVD player,
Denon AVC-A11SR surround amp,
B&W 601-S3 fronts
B&W 601-S3 rears
B&W LCR60 center
Sony 24" CRT TV - quite old, but I've kept it for the fact that nothing I have seen at any reasonable price has even come close until the new wave of HD plasmas has come out here in the UK over the past year.
To my eyes/ears it's a pretty good system - although I'll be biamping when I get round to it and getting a decent plasma to top it off.
I'm also hoping to design/build some speakers based on dipoles (but with a twist) - again if I get the time!
Since about 1998 this has been my system:
VPI HW-19 TT with MKIII platter, numerous small mods to reduce resonance (lead sheeting, springs removed, etc.) with Shure V15VMR cartridge and Sumiko Primier FT-3 arm.
Denon DVD/SACD player, unmodified. Sounds decent as is, but I'm sure it could sound better.
YBA Integre DT integrated amp. Stock unit, very nice sounding.
DIY speakers, 2-way, suspension, using an Audax 8" woofer and Morel 1" tweeter, with home-designed and built cabinets, with interesting crossovers using principals from Ray Kimber.
It's a pretty straightforward system, really. It could probably benefit from more power (the VBA is only 50wpc) and the speakers are probably not perfect. But generally I'm pretty satisfied with it. Right now I'm working on cleaning my LP collection and making some CD transfers.
-Karl
VPI HW-19 TT with MKIII platter, numerous small mods to reduce resonance (lead sheeting, springs removed, etc.) with Shure V15VMR cartridge and Sumiko Primier FT-3 arm.
Denon DVD/SACD player, unmodified. Sounds decent as is, but I'm sure it could sound better.
YBA Integre DT integrated amp. Stock unit, very nice sounding.
DIY speakers, 2-way, suspension, using an Audax 8" woofer and Morel 1" tweeter, with home-designed and built cabinets, with interesting crossovers using principals from Ray Kimber.
It's a pretty straightforward system, really. It could probably benefit from more power (the VBA is only 50wpc) and the speakers are probably not perfect. But generally I'm pretty satisfied with it. Right now I'm working on cleaning my LP collection and making some CD transfers.
-Karl
annex666 said:None of my kit is modified as yet and none of it is DIY either, but since I started posting on DIYaudio I've been undertaking a degree in electronics that should be wrapped up within the next few months (I am into DIY - I just don't get the time!).
Hopefully then I will get the time to finally finish my biamped P3A project that I started before uni almost 4 years ago! (or design my own amp from scratch now I can 😉).
Ok so here's the system at present:
Denon DVD2900 DVD player,
Denon AVC-A11SR surround amp,
B&W 601-S3 fronts
B&W 601-S3 rears
B&W LCR60 center
Sony 24" CRT TV - quite old, but I've kept it for the fact that nothing I have seen at any reasonable price has even come close until the new wave of HD plasmas has come out here in the UK over the past year.
To my eyes/ears it's a pretty good system - although I'll be biamping when I get round to it and getting a decent plasma to top it off.
I'm also hoping to design/build some speakers based on dipoles (but with a twist) - again if I get the time!
I've just finished the degree and treated myself to a Sony KDL32V200 LCD TV for getting a first - best LCD picture I've seen so far!
MrAcoustat Keep It Simple
My system
Chord CPM-2600 Integrated Amplifier
Electrocompaniet EMC1-up Cd player
Acoustat 1+1s Speakers
My system
Chord CPM-2600 Integrated Amplifier
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Electrocompaniet EMC1-up Cd player
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Acoustat 1+1s Speakers
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