Amps are selected after you select speakers, not the other way around.
You seem to be in a hurry to get some high-quality entertainment at a low-cost. Now that's OK since dreams do not incur taxes. However, do understand that this "speaker thing" is generally more work than fun (like marriage) and it's up to the builder to find his/her fun in the work he/she does. But you seem to have a very casual approach at things, that doesn't even consider many of the primary variables related to your application.
On the whole, you don't seem to appreciate the amount of effort it takes to get to a position from where it becomes possible to rival commercial speakers. While it may not take a lot of degrees to build speakers (like vineethkumar01 already mentioned), some appreciation, patience, wisdom, prudence and thereabouts are all very necessary.
If you're still passionate about building speakers (and not discouraged/tired already), then maybe you can come back to build one after a while, during which you could actually learn (and appreciate) the science(s) behind sound reproduction.
Nevertheless, if you really have the kind of money you mention in your posts, then I suggest you quietly get yourself some decent ready-made speakers to enjoy your movies / music. But, even in that case, be sure to listen to them beforehand.
All the best.
My personal opinion:
Get some good but reasonably priced passive tops like the Yamaha CHR10 and DIY a sub or two, use a decent but reasonably priced Pro amplifier with DSP integrated for crossovers and power.
Skip all the low level stuff and go straight for balanced for signal and Neutrik (Speakon) for speaker connectors, wish I knew about that stuff before wasting so much time on poor to mediocre quality when I could have had really good stuff for the same price.
Good subs are expensive, get some ready made but decent tops and DIY a sub or two, at least for your first project.
Get some good but reasonably priced passive tops like the Yamaha CHR10 and DIY a sub or two, use a decent but reasonably priced Pro amplifier with DSP integrated for crossovers and power.
Skip all the low level stuff and go straight for balanced for signal and Neutrik (Speakon) for speaker connectors, wish I knew about that stuff before wasting so much time on poor to mediocre quality when I could have had really good stuff for the same price.
Good subs are expensive, get some ready made but decent tops and DIY a sub or two, at least for your first project.
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I did make driver selection. SB Acoustic drivers. Can check my selection in previous posts.
So you must also have worked out how much (peak and average) power they need to meet the required sound pressure levels at your listening position?
Of course the transfer functions were the same. Otherwise the comparison would not make any sense at all... you can read it up in the OSMC thread (link my in signature).
The cost for a miniDSP and extra amps was certainly more than the passive x-over, and the passive filters sound better.
Yes they are rated 4ohm and very efficient. Don't need to go north of 100W to get reference THX rated 105db Peaks and hardly 10W to hit 90db.
4-channel professional amplifier (entry level INR 30k):
https://www.behringer.com/product.html?modelCode=P0A1S
https://www.bajaao.com/products/behringer-europower-epq304?variant=1004474283
Advanced ( INR 70k)
https://www.behringer.com/behringer/product?modelCode=P0CHU
https://vmt.in/products/nx4-6000
Is that entry level good on Low THD value.
If it is I may end up picking it up over Texas Instruments modules. As costing same this comes in an enclosure which I would have spent another INR1,000-1,500.
Try the datasheet for THD etc. and you're getting not only an enclosure but also a power supply. Why don't you look at car (plate) amplifiers?
Nah man that EPQ304 is said to have steep roll off on the top end. Okay I do get the point that I can EQ. But is it really worth the issues it has like higher THD and RMS 65W and Peak 75W. It is a bit under-powered. I am trying to get 100W+ at 4Ohm. And THD %0.1 or lower.
And what kind of steep roll off on the top end ?
Really? Your speaker is only 50W and it would exhibit significant power compression much before that.
50W continuous. But can go to higher peaks. That is what I said. I am completely fine with lower continuous Power output but would rather have higher output Amps for peak performance as well as having lower THD. Not like having additional Headroom gonna be bad or something. Not gonna drive past pain threshold anyways. Not keen on damaging my ears. LOL.
Not really you do realize that EQ devours power. 6db is 4X the required power for the same SPL. Cut is fine but + you really should avoid it at all possible. The difference between 65 watts and 100 watts is insignificant. Less that 3db and only applies to a limited improvement in headroom.
To answer your original question between the drivers, amps, building the enclosures, DSP and your time are you really saving anything??? If want to do it great but I don't see it as a money saver. Fun as hell yes!!
Rob🙂
Yes will see. This will either be my summer project. Or direct to the Passive speaker. Anyhow. Will only build 2 Left and Right speakers and see how they turn out being. If they end up costing me as much as Paradigm Premier 800F or not be close to as good as it in Sound department I will stop at 2 Speakers. If they end being good and economic. Only then I will go ahead with full setup.
After all this discussion and discouragement. Which is probably good as you guys are trying to keep me away from lot of potential pain. I may end up going Paradigm Way. The issue is that it is kinda over priced here. And sadly nothing better is available at lower price point. I was trying to save money and be economic while getting similar or even better result. But if you guys are saying that I may not be getting similar or even better result for lesser price then I should check on what my priorities are. But I just don't wanna leave and miss out on it if there is a chance to achieve it.
The reason I plan to take it on is to save money. On paper it seems to work okay as I getting components for very less price. Like a lot less. And still people are scaring me that it will end up costing similar. Which I am unable to understand how. Unless someone explains it clearly.