Allen could you please define what you hear by my current position?
And as i stated i gave ref to a pov which is not nescessarely the same as mine and given in a different context...
And as i stated i gave ref to a pov which is not nescessarely the same as mine and given in a different context...
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Ok,
I'm not convinced that technically one path is better than the other, neither the practical implementations are always too.
That said i agree with Newell about the subjective quality which are given to active system in his pov.
But my own experience with it is it's easier to me to use active filtering than passive and once the tools are acquired ( soundcard, mic, dsp or computer) that's it.
I'm not convinced that technically one path is better than the other, neither the practical implementations are always too.
That said i agree with Newell about the subjective quality which are given to active system in his pov.
But my own experience with it is it's easier to me to use active filtering than passive and once the tools are acquired ( soundcard, mic, dsp or computer) that's it.
If a person has the speaker design skills, tools and experience then yes one can match and perhaps exceed the technical performance of this passive design for perhaps half the price or a bit more. Assuming of course the large amount of time involved is not considered a cost. Your questions rather suggest that you may not have the design experience in which case building an existing design might be a better option. Even here some reliable experience would need to be accessed in choosing the design because a fair few DIY designs will lag the performance of good commercial equivalents and enthusiasm for designs is not particularly well correlated with technical performance.
If it is one's own design then an active crossover will be more flexible and offer a modest performance edge over a passive design but there is more to designing a good speaker than the crossover. Unfortunately it can be pretty expensive and/or pretty messy for DIYers to implement active crossovers. If you opt for DSP and amplifier modules marketed to DIYers they are expensive compared to commercial equivalents. If you opt for second hand AVRs, multichannel DACs, programming old PCs, Raspberry Pis or whatever,... then the costs can be reasonable but it is time consuming, fiddly and some of the hardware is likely to not work as well as hoped/expected.
If the objective is to save money rather than have fun with DIY the best option is almost always going to be buying commercial speakers even when, as in this case, the option to save money does potentially exist.
Actually, it's generally a lot less work than a passive xover.
So the plan is to buy a perfectly working pasive speakers and turn them active.
So your plan is to buy a perfectly working pasive speakers and turn them active. Can you explain what specific issues you are aiming to address with this operation and describe sonic improvements you expect to achieve?
If I were to go Active route then I would use Mini DSP 2x4 HD + TPA3255EVM(x2) per speaker which I am able to get for a good deal from my local supplier. So wouldn't worry about that much. Which are known to have low THD. But If I have go that route then tweaking is what gonna take time but much easier compared to creating a Passive crossover right.
What? No, I never said that. I was asking if I should go DIY route creating active speaker and save a lot of budget or should I go Passive Speaker from Named brands like Paradigm Premier 800F. I would like to save money if I can get equally good Speaker for half the price if I take DIY route.
There doesn't seem to be enough channels. You will need an even more expensive minidsp, more amplifier modules (possibly of different class and lower power for tweeter), suitable audio power supplies, plus likely one or two other bits and bobs depending on options. Examples of the price of good 3 way plate amps if you follow this route. This way of doing it isn't cheap.
Why it has 4 output channels and the modules support 2ch each. I plan to use 1 tweeter + 1 midrange + 2 woofers. It should be enough.
It's probably been mentioned already and you've surely thought of it, but why not choose a kit from Madisound (US) or the " loudspeaker shop" in EU? I've listened to a few and they are very well designed.
I don't know if going DIY route made me save money. However it gives the option to get what i want and doesn't exist as is in commercial offer ( well let's say it gives me the choice on compromise i am willing to make).
What are your skills in woodworking Vineet Reddy? I ask because this is my limiting factor so know the issues related...
I understand people look at Minidsp solutions but if you want best price/performance/upgradibility ratio this isn't where to look at.
Above all if you needs lots of out.
Chip_mk mk question really make sense to me as what he describe is exactly what got me started into multi amp/dsp config.
I can say i gained in some area going from passive to dsp/active with my 'big' threeway but hit a limit with the design choice that have been made by the original designer.
I think it was worthwile because the drivers and box was already 'good' to me in passive but was bothered by something i thought could be solved by dsp use. But physics is physics and i discovered some design choices can't be compensated afterward by digital manipulation. Mitigated yes sometimes...
If you can find a good 'average' commercial loudspeaker range that could benefit from turning active it can save time and money ( drivers and box already there)... but you would need to evaluate the original design choice made and feel if something could be gained ( or done different than passive).
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Not possible to find matching center channel and most of the kits are more expensive thannthe Paradigm. Only few which are at lower budget range are oddly designed.
This is not correct as explained on the minidsp advice page I linked to. I think you might need to take some time out to understand just how expensive the ready to use active crossover/amplifier speaker hardware targeted at DIYers actually is. Nice but expensive and likely to put you over budget if you opt for the good stuff.
Okay wood work skills. But is not me who will be working on the enclosure. I will get it done by my friend. He owns a furniture shop, so no reason to get my hands dirty for that. He also gets me good deal on all kinds of wood but I will probanly stick to HDF board. What I am good at is designing stuff so will design the enclosure to the spec and then get it done by my friend.
Ok it's nice if you have help or things done for you.
About dsp here are three typical example of config for a multiamp/dsp approach. They include everything needed except mains supply connector.
It should help to evaluate costs to engage if it is high on your design criteria.
Those are stereo config only (for a 4 way).
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/1647517842779_pc-config-jpg.1035554/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/dsp-config-minidsp-jpg.1035553/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/dsp-config-2496-jpg.1035552/
About dsp here are three typical example of config for a multiamp/dsp approach. They include everything needed except mains supply connector.
It should help to evaluate costs to engage if it is high on your design criteria.
Those are stereo config only (for a 4 way).
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/1647517842779_pc-config-jpg.1035554/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/dsp-config-minidsp-jpg.1035553/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/dsp-config-2496-jpg.1035552/
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Now I get it. DIY route is riskier but the gain is potentially bigger. Stick to well tried DIY project to increase your chances for success. Don't start such ambitious project from scratch unless you are very experienced and very well equipped.
... or you have lots of time to gain the necessary experience along the way.
It's a good question! I asked myself many times, as well as building amplifiers & active crossover.
Apart from obvious hobby enthusiasm, I think there are several reasons to DIM:
- I build 2.1 systems, with 2 ways satellites (passive or active filtered) and a unique subwoofer; this system is often tailored (specific cabinet & console, specific color...)
- for more than 20 years, I love specific speakers: particularly Audax TW025 tweeters (titanium or magnesium dome) and Davis Acoustics 13KLV5MA medium/bass; in addition to the bargain price, I well know how to filter them. For subwoofer, I can find used ±10" Focal speaker, which are really good.
All these speakers were built with indestructible rubber suspension and treated or metal cone. - you are right: at a reasonable price, no competition between DIY and industrial; but when your goal is to achieve high end system, there is photo!
I remember 30 years back, when I worked at Fnac, I could have bought a pair for the price of one piece...
My two cents.
Pierre (remember I'm french: read my English with caution!)
Some of my DIY
Yeah guys see if I m getting good sound quality for much less than what named brands are asking with only drawback of me spending a lot of time on it before and through the process. That seems to be a decent tradeoff.
Isn't it. I may be wrong. Hmmm......