I've located the drawing I personally made of a Dovedale 3 type crossover (not one of the published schematics to which I referred earlier).
It does show the mid wired in reverse phase to the woofer - as is the tweeter!
See also my post #2 which is also in agreement. That was way back in 2018 and I'd forgotten my own words by the time you made your post!
Happy listening, Ludwig.
It does show the mid wired in reverse phase to the woofer - as is the tweeter!
See also my post #2 which is also in agreement. That was way back in 2018 and I'd forgotten my own words by the time you made your post!
Happy listening, Ludwig.
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Hi,
I love my Dovedales, I managed a good "synergy" with a little stereogram 3Watt ECL86 SE amplifier for several years. The source of the synergy that tames the rather zingy tweeter was that the amp rolled off at 14kHz, due to its crappy output transformer. I have had some success with re-foaming and re-rubbering, even though it takes courage.
Wharfedale Dovedale cone rubber repair - diyAudio
That was my first attempt, and note the free air resonance goes from about 60Hz down to 25Hz, that was with bicycle inner tube. I recently re-foamed a pair with an off the shelf 12" foam, cut and extended a bit. Being foam, by nature flexible, this worked quite satisfactorily, and I may be fooling my self but the quality of the bass seemed to have more resolution and detail with the foam rather than the rubber, very satisfying. The movement of the cone felt less damped. They do work with the stiff rubber and sound OK, nice and tight, but sound a little more like a PA speaker, compared to the effortless depth of the re-foam.
It is worth trying a re-foam, the broken woofers come up on ebay occasionally, these recent pair both arrived with no surround at all, so nothing to lose! I glued the foam to the cone first, needs trimming to fit inside the lip, and then glued to the basket. The cone needs centring at this point so 4 blobs of glue at north south east and west, and then run a low frequency tone, to make sure not rubbing, then clamp and let dry, then glue all the gaps.
I love my Dovedales, I managed a good "synergy" with a little stereogram 3Watt ECL86 SE amplifier for several years. The source of the synergy that tames the rather zingy tweeter was that the amp rolled off at 14kHz, due to its crappy output transformer. I have had some success with re-foaming and re-rubbering, even though it takes courage.
Wharfedale Dovedale cone rubber repair - diyAudio
That was my first attempt, and note the free air resonance goes from about 60Hz down to 25Hz, that was with bicycle inner tube. I recently re-foamed a pair with an off the shelf 12" foam, cut and extended a bit. Being foam, by nature flexible, this worked quite satisfactorily, and I may be fooling my self but the quality of the bass seemed to have more resolution and detail with the foam rather than the rubber, very satisfying. The movement of the cone felt less damped. They do work with the stiff rubber and sound OK, nice and tight, but sound a little more like a PA speaker, compared to the effortless depth of the re-foam.
It is worth trying a re-foam, the broken woofers come up on ebay occasionally, these recent pair both arrived with no surround at all, so nothing to lose! I glued the foam to the cone first, needs trimming to fit inside the lip, and then glued to the basket. The cone needs centring at this point so 4 blobs of glue at north south east and west, and then run a low frequency tone, to make sure not rubbing, then clamp and let dry, then glue all the gaps.
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I remember reading your inner tube rubber repair post a while back, hbc!
Thanks for sharing the details of your latest restoration.
As you know, the basket and cone dimensions of these Wharfedale drivers are not standard. For future reference, it would be valuable to know the source of the "off the shelf 12" foam" that you used.
The end result looks really good and I'm glad it sounds good too.
P.S. Just cos I can, I've attached a photo of the Dovedale drivers in their original, but aged, condition.
Thanks for sharing the details of your latest restoration.
As you know, the basket and cone dimensions of these Wharfedale drivers are not standard. For future reference, it would be valuable to know the source of the "off the shelf 12" foam" that you used.
The end result looks really good and I'm glad it sounds good too.
P.S. Just cos I can, I've attached a photo of the Dovedale drivers in their original, but aged, condition.
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Hi there.
I have just joined diyAudio as I have a problem with a crossover on my Wharfedale Dovedale 3 speakers.
My query is over the excellent schematic wiring diagram produced by AvSat44. To cut a long story short, of the many forms of Dovedale 3’s (III) mine was the switched version with the switches attached to the PCB.
The switches have not stood the test of time and so need replacing. It is unlikely that I will be able to find the correct ones so will probably mount them on a separate board and wire them back to the pcb. Having removed them I am just checking the layout against your schematic to wire them correctly. I have discovered what looks like a 1 ohm resistor which wasn’t shown on your diagram so I have attached a version with it included. I have also included a picture of it in situ.
Do you think this looks correct?
I suspect that this might be the first of several queries I am going to have on this project!
I have just joined diyAudio as I have a problem with a crossover on my Wharfedale Dovedale 3 speakers.
My query is over the excellent schematic wiring diagram produced by AvSat44. To cut a long story short, of the many forms of Dovedale 3’s (III) mine was the switched version with the switches attached to the PCB.
The switches have not stood the test of time and so need replacing. It is unlikely that I will be able to find the correct ones so will probably mount them on a separate board and wire them back to the pcb. Having removed them I am just checking the layout against your schematic to wire them correctly. I have discovered what looks like a 1 ohm resistor which wasn’t shown on your diagram so I have attached a version with it included. I have also included a picture of it in situ.
Do you think this looks correct?
I suspect that this might be the first of several queries I am going to have on this project!
Attachments
Dovedale 3's revisited
Hi Roversaloon.
Your addition of the 1 ohm resistor is spot on. Not long after posting the circuit I realised that I'd left it off and had originally thought it was just a wire link on the PCB.
Also, make absolutely sure that when you buy the new switches that you get the right ones as the contact configuration in the originals is a bit odd.
As a bit of an update, I completed the Dovedales (my second set) with original crossover PCB's that I found on the other side of Oz. Because I'm stupid, I sold them to a friend but just recently found another pair. Here we go again!
By the way, my first set had no switches at all!
Hi Roversaloon.
Your addition of the 1 ohm resistor is spot on. Not long after posting the circuit I realised that I'd left it off and had originally thought it was just a wire link on the PCB.
Also, make absolutely sure that when you buy the new switches that you get the right ones as the contact configuration in the originals is a bit odd.
As a bit of an update, I completed the Dovedales (my second set) with original crossover PCB's that I found on the other side of Oz. Because I'm stupid, I sold them to a friend but just recently found another pair. Here we go again!
By the way, my first set had no switches at all!
Yes - the original switch configuration was odd to say the least. In effect they were double pole but each pole switched differently as you went through the three positions. However in effect they behaved like A - A+B - A+B+C but in a rather convoluted manner. They were made by Arocoelectric/Bulgin who of course still exist.
I am going to have to replace some of the resistors as they look as if they have received some mechanical damage and so may as well replace all the capacitors at the same time as I guess 25 years of loft storage at +40 deg to -10 deg C won't exactly have kept them in the prime of life.
Thanks for the confirmation of the 1 ohm resistor.
I am going to have to replace some of the resistors as they look as if they have received some mechanical damage and so may as well replace all the capacitors at the same time as I guess 25 years of loft storage at +40 deg to -10 deg C won't exactly have kept them in the prime of life.
Thanks for the confirmation of the 1 ohm resistor.
I am still working out exactly how to replace the broken three way switches. Having got them out, I can see that one was working as it should (in a rather bizarre switching pattern but it is doing what it's supposed to do) whilst the other is definitely faulty. I am guessing 20 odd years in a loft hasn't helped their electrical integrity.
Actually a simple three way toggle switch similar to that used for car side/headlights will be fine but will need to be wired remotely to the board rather than soldered onto the pcb. This in itself isn't really a problem.
However, I have one other question about the excellent schematic diagram which AvSat44 has been my saviour in interpreting the pcb and its components. I wonder whether you have reversed the position of the two resistors controlling the mid range response. Having put a meter on the actual components I make it that the mid position (2) cuts out the 3.9 ohm leaving just the 2.7 in circuit. If I understand it correctly, the diagram shows position 2 on the mid range as taking the 2.7 ohm out of the circuit leaving the 3.9 remaining.
Do you think that this might be correct?
Actually a simple three way toggle switch similar to that used for car side/headlights will be fine but will need to be wired remotely to the board rather than soldered onto the pcb. This in itself isn't really a problem.
However, I have one other question about the excellent schematic diagram which AvSat44 has been my saviour in interpreting the pcb and its components. I wonder whether you have reversed the position of the two resistors controlling the mid range response. Having put a meter on the actual components I make it that the mid position (2) cuts out the 3.9 ohm leaving just the 2.7 in circuit. If I understand it correctly, the diagram shows position 2 on the mid range as taking the 2.7 ohm out of the circuit leaving the 3.9 remaining.
Do you think that this might be correct?
Hi. I have started to work on a pair of Dovedale 3 speakers and the midrange units look different to the ones seen here. They clearly have Wharfedale on the rears but just wondering if they might have been replaced with units from a different speaker. Also included crossover pics similar to earlier ones. All info greatly appreciated.
The mids are AOK. With their cast metal frames they may even be superior to the later pressed steel frame mids.
The crossover circuit is the one shown in post #14.
I would do no more than replace the (prone to ageing) ELCAPS with modern bipolar electrolytic capacitors. You won't find values such as 25 uF any more so simply use the nearest modern equivalent value, in this case 22 uF.
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf...pacitors/22-fd-ecap100-electrolytic-capacitor
The crossover circuit is the one shown in post #14.
I would do no more than replace the (prone to ageing) ELCAPS with modern bipolar electrolytic capacitors. You won't find values such as 25 uF any more so simply use the nearest modern equivalent value, in this case 22 uF.
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf...pacitors/22-fd-ecap100-electrolytic-capacitor
Thanks Galu. I did and unfortunately it just showed open circuit for both and I have just ordered a replacement pair from the well known auction site (pressed steel type), fingers crossed. I am amazed at how good these speakers sound even without these working midrange units or perhaps it highlights my age and poor hearing. Looking forward to hearing the fully working speakers.
I think you are correct, i just bought a paur off these speakers and are restorring them
Rubber inner tube update. I have been having many speaker adventures and haven't had any of my Dovedales in use recently. I have had some `time to do some much pondered tweaks today. I noticed that the inner tube had become unstuck from the old surround remnants in a few places, letting out a noticeable breeze on LF tones. Have re stuck with some evo-stick. Thinking of swapping the inner tube woofers out with the more recently re foamed ones, but will see how this gets on for the time being. The Dovedales really are my favorite speaker in terms of value and performance and general loveliness, so I am going to tweak them gently to make them even better. Thats the plan anyway. I crave a full range speaker that runs happily with lowish power tubes. The Dovedale is off to a pretty good start.
*Stop reading here if you are blissfully happy with your pair
My most obvious problem is the tweeter, having heard it misbehave a few times, I cannot unhear that, so a possible alternative has been identified from my stash. It was a toss up between focal T120 or the lineaum used in a lot of Kenwood speakers. Have fitted the Kenwood, although not as efficient, similar level when the switch is in higher position.
The purple dome with 4 ohm series resistor compared to the Linaeum (green).
Quick and dirty FR plot looks ok.
Just done this mod, required no case hacking, just some draught excluder. First impressions, good.
*Stop reading here if you are blissfully happy with your pair
My most obvious problem is the tweeter, having heard it misbehave a few times, I cannot unhear that, so a possible alternative has been identified from my stash. It was a toss up between focal T120 or the lineaum used in a lot of Kenwood speakers. Have fitted the Kenwood, although not as efficient, similar level when the switch is in higher position.
The purple dome with 4 ohm series resistor compared to the Linaeum (green).
Quick and dirty FR plot looks ok.
Just done this mod, required no case hacking, just some draught excluder. First impressions, good.
