When I checked the OEM elytic caps in my set of Diamond 10.2 they were pretty off:
C1 average = 6.7uF vs. 6uF tweeter
C2 average = 7.5uF vs. 6.8uF woofer
Changed them to Panasonic metallized PP radial, 5%:
C1s were purposely reduced to "5.6uF", measuring 5.68uF and 5.7uF
C2s stayed 6.8uF and measured a tad low at 6.62uF and 6.65uF
I could have tweaked them up with some dead-on 0.27s but didn't.
After reading the report I had figured to offload the tweeter of some of its low end duties by raising its Fc a bit vs. doing Mod 2. Turns out, in reality I raised it quite a bit considering the OEM tweeter cap values. I "think" the 10.2s have improved more than a bit. Happy I went to the trouble.
C1 average = 6.7uF vs. 6uF tweeter
C2 average = 7.5uF vs. 6.8uF woofer
Changed them to Panasonic metallized PP radial, 5%:
C1s were purposely reduced to "5.6uF", measuring 5.68uF and 5.7uF
C2s stayed 6.8uF and measured a tad low at 6.62uF and 6.65uF
I could have tweaked them up with some dead-on 0.27s but didn't.
After reading the report I had figured to offload the tweeter of some of its low end duties by raising its Fc a bit vs. doing Mod 2. Turns out, in reality I raised it quite a bit considering the OEM tweeter cap values. I "think" the 10.2s have improved more than a bit. Happy I went to the trouble.
Hi Benbo,
First of all you need to tilt the enclosure backwards about 9-10 degrees in order to get the mid-woofer axis about 22mm closer.
What if we tilt the speaker with default crossover? Does it improve time delay and FR?