Me too, have yet to audition an original, only my 1/4 scaled from pictures loaded with '50s era oval mobile audio speakers, so basically a weird looking, typical size for the times mono AM radio.
Nice thing about being a kid is anything DIY is deemed 'good' by all.
The only XPS boards I've used is 1" OC 703 and even doubling up, lining it will just damp it real nice. 😉
So the final decision is to maximize the build with available wood and offset driver on the baffle. And instead of XPS, I will find some wood leftovers to play with resonator tuning.
iirc the original design has these slats for variable opening of the back chamber. Have you included this in the sims?
There is no way to do that in Hornresp. I tried to include the effect by filling the end part and it seems to damp the lower peak a bit. Maybe the slats lower the Q of the resonator doing a similar thing. Once this is built, I will try out the slats as well.
Acoustically; +1 on less offset except I would use 1.14: 1.39, the smallest room ratio I'm aware of without doing the math.
Hmm, in retrospect, maybe I need to quit doing 'knee jerk' responses when short of time. 🙁
In this case I was thinking room ratios, so the mean (1) could be height, width or depth, but one side of the 'room' is open, ergo the mean is the center of the baffle in this case; but I'm guessing you've put it down low due to 'shading' the woofer at the listening position like listening to a horn too far off axis, so better to offset based on the baffle's eigenmodes, i.e. choose an odd harmonic in both planes to locate it and/or see if you can (further) optimize it in the EDGE software.
In this case I was thinking room ratios, so the mean (1) could be height, width or depth, but one side of the 'room' is open, ergo the mean is the center of the baffle in this case; but I'm guessing you've put it down low due to 'shading' the woofer at the listening position like listening to a horn too far off axis, so better to offset based on the baffle's eigenmodes, i.e. choose an odd harmonic in both planes to locate it and/or see if you can (further) optimize it in the EDGE software.
Thanks for sharing the link on WE build and history. Very interesting. I had been playing with full range drivers on open baffle and driven from tube amps. My latest was Fane 12” and was giving me great joy but on a smaller sized baffle would roll off steep around 200hz.
A friend from Bulgaria shared an idea to try to complement Fane with bass. It was dipole version of WE bass bin. I named it dipole front loaded horn. At that time my only choice of 15” woofer for OB duty was PRV 15W1000V2. I had this crazy idea to try it in above design. Had some left over 18mm mdf. I quickly built a 36” x 24” x 16” enclosure and centered the PRV. I was playing Fane 250 TC from the Dynaco ST35 and took speaker level inputs for the Miller & Kreisler subwoofer plate amp (250 watts) to drive the PRVs crossed active at 200 hz. The odd looking, huge enclosure was centered between two Fanes.
The bass was staggering, effortless, smooth yet thundering, something I had never experienced before. ( I had dual M&K subs too which were no match to this)
I decided to add another and as soon as I pushed the first one toward the wall (room width was small at 11 feet only but good 23 feet length), the low end fell apart and sounded boomy.
That was the end of my adventure as it was time for the rest of the folks to come back home after a trip, so everything got dismantled.
Attaching a picture of my funny build. I had to load it with cement bricks else it will start moving around…..
It’s also called GIP 7331.
A friend from Bulgaria shared an idea to try to complement Fane with bass. It was dipole version of WE bass bin. I named it dipole front loaded horn. At that time my only choice of 15” woofer for OB duty was PRV 15W1000V2. I had this crazy idea to try it in above design. Had some left over 18mm mdf. I quickly built a 36” x 24” x 16” enclosure and centered the PRV. I was playing Fane 250 TC from the Dynaco ST35 and took speaker level inputs for the Miller & Kreisler subwoofer plate amp (250 watts) to drive the PRVs crossed active at 200 hz. The odd looking, huge enclosure was centered between two Fanes.
The bass was staggering, effortless, smooth yet thundering, something I had never experienced before. ( I had dual M&K subs too which were no match to this)
I decided to add another and as soon as I pushed the first one toward the wall (room width was small at 11 feet only but good 23 feet length), the low end fell apart and sounded boomy.
That was the end of my adventure as it was time for the rest of the folks to come back home after a trip, so everything got dismantled.
Attaching a picture of my funny build. I had to load it with cement bricks else it will start moving around…..
It’s also called GIP 7331.
Very nice and encouraging! If I understand you correctly, your build is missing the back part?
It also seems to confirm my feeling that the room placement will be critical to get the best performance. BTW, I have a pair of the 12" Fanes in 90l sealed boxes and they are great in a room, but too beamy to be used as garden party speakers, which was the original intention.
It also seems to confirm my feeling that the room placement will be critical to get the best performance. BTW, I have a pair of the 12" Fanes in 90l sealed boxes and they are great in a room, but too beamy to be used as garden party speakers, which was the original intention.
Yes, exactly. The rear of the vented motor part of the woofer is open and NOT sealed as in the WE design. I wanted it to be dipole. The PRV played most effortless low end…
I intend to do a 3 way iteration of above design using mid horn topped with a pair of nice Calrad horn tweeters I have. I still miss the bass these produced. After this I have done dual 15” U frame dipole using these same PRV woofers but the above single driver, horn loaded was a different animal….
I would play it past midnight at moderate volumes and at higher volumes, would get calls from two floors up requesting to simmer it down…. I was surprised… It probably shook the whole wing. It was smooth, effortless yet travelled quite far !!!
You are misunderstanding the WE design, it is H frame, the rearchamber it not sealed but open.
They did put fabric louvers on the rear at 45 degrees to vertical as a rope of damping.
Here is a picture of the rear during my build.
Below an in room shot
Below an in room shot
Thanks for that clarification. I could not find any details on that. Probably that makes it more corner friendly.
So all the OSB boards for my Franken7331 are cut. Now the speaker hole and I can start putting it together.
I decided to beef up the construction a bit more than just OSB - I will get some square wooden beams - not as tank proof as the original, but at least along the gluing edges. I could compensate with these for my not so perfect cutting, to square it better a bit. I have the holes cut as well, so now I need to find some time and space to build it up.