I'm building some 2 way floor standers, about 80cm high. Is there any advantage in building a HEAVY plinth for them to stand on?
(speaker bolted to plynth, spikes on to floorboards)
I'm thinking of making them in one inch MDF, with a concrete core!
(speaker bolted to plynth, spikes on to floorboards)
I'm thinking of making them in one inch MDF, with a concrete core!
Mike
I have had great sucess in just placing spiked speakers on top of paving slabs resting on the floor ( carpet). This was dead cheap and a great upgrade. If stability is your main worry then go for your method, otherwise mine is cheaper and easier🙂
I have had great sucess in just placing spiked speakers on top of paving slabs resting on the floor ( carpet). This was dead cheap and a great upgrade. If stability is your main worry then go for your method, otherwise mine is cheaper and easier🙂
If your speakers are going on a suspended wooden floor, then using a heavy slab under the speakers should improve the sound, because you are adding mass and damping to the speakers so the amplitude of vibrations transmitted to the floor will be reduced. A suspended wooden floor "sings" quite well with speakers on them.
I read an article in Hi-fi Choice a while back and there was a product called a Townsend Seismic Sink (or something like that), which was a couple of overlapping steel trays with an air bladder in between them. On a concrete floor the reviewer said that the sound was not bad, but it really came into its own on a suspended wooden floor. So that might be something to try - put the speaker on a heavy slab sitting on top of an air spring, which could be a bike inner tube inflated to a suitable level. The whole arrangement would be like a mechanical low pass filter. The only problem that would need to be solved would be stability, so that the whole arrangement doesn't rock too much.
Mick
I read an article in Hi-fi Choice a while back and there was a product called a Townsend Seismic Sink (or something like that), which was a couple of overlapping steel trays with an air bladder in between them. On a concrete floor the reviewer said that the sound was not bad, but it really came into its own on a suspended wooden floor. So that might be something to try - put the speaker on a heavy slab sitting on top of an air spring, which could be a bike inner tube inflated to a suitable level. The whole arrangement would be like a mechanical low pass filter. The only problem that would need to be solved would be stability, so that the whole arrangement doesn't rock too much.
Mick
Do you mean <a href="http://www.townshendaudio.com/products/speakerplatform/speakerplatform.htm">these</a> Mick.Kanga said:
I've never used them myself, but have heard some good reports in some instances. might be worth a DIY effort like you described. I've seen similar DIY versions using air bladders under TT's to good effect.
Cheers
Attachments
Thanks guys.
My concerns were; stop the things falling over, plus improve imaging and bass response by minimising any movement of the cabinet.
My concerns were; stop the things falling over, plus improve imaging and bass response by minimising any movement of the cabinet.
mike said:
Using a pr of midbasses push-push goes a long way in these respects -- you do end up with a 2.5 way thou (no bafflestep to deal with, helps efficiency too)
dave
QUOTE]Do you mean these Mick.[/QUOTE]
Yep - they're the ones.
I'm considering something like this for my project, as I have suspended floors, but first let's finish the speakers.
Mike - these Townsend thingies probably won't be great for stopping your speakers from falling over. I think that the article did mention that the speakers can be a bit wobbly.
Mick[
Yep - they're the ones.
I'm considering something like this for my project, as I have suspended floors, but first let's finish the speakers.
Mike - these Townsend thingies probably won't be great for stopping your speakers from falling over. I think that the article did mention that the speakers can be a bit wobbly.
Mick[
Mick,Kanga said:
You can also try a sandbox, as wide and deep as SAF and speaker height requirements will allow. Spike the speakers on to the top plate for stability. Also get some angle Al or steel offcuts, and screw them to the bottom of the top plate of the sandbox, as deep as possible into the sand without touching the bottom. They will act like keels and stabilise it. Use the finest grain clean sand you can find.
Even less work and money are a couple of 600 x 600 concrete pavers. Spike the speakers to the top (because the pavers aren't flat) and try some thin rubber or cork underneath to protect your floors. Its best if either the sandbox or the pavers bridge across a couple of floor joists.
Neither of these should wobble.
HTH
Cheers
Try This.....
Mike, use a largeish area base board or paver as suggested, and place the whole lot on car (or truck according to total mass being supported) valve springs and you will have very little coupling into the floor boards.
Overall efficiency will go up too.
Eric.
Mike, use a largeish area base board or paver as suggested, and place the whole lot on car (or truck according to total mass being supported) valve springs and you will have very little coupling into the floor boards.
Overall efficiency will go up too.
Eric.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.