Just bought a pair of these on sale:
Tang Band W6-2144 6-1/2" Paper Cone Full Range Driver 8 Ohm
They look amazing, weight 8lbs 3oz ! The last FR speaker I built (or my dad built?) I was probably 14, and it was just a closed box with spare speakers.
I'd like to build a TL or MLTL, maybe TWQT ?
I've built / designed ported boxes mainly, using win-ISD. Never used Hornresp or designed any horns / TLs. I actually monitor in the studio with some TL studio monitors, so I do like the clean deep bass I get, though it's not earth shaking.
These will be used for music mainly, but maybe the odd movie (especially for the kids). In the basement den. Not a huge room, so these will probably be kind of near a wall. I have some ceiling treatment in the room from when I used it for recording. I'll probably use my old Yamaha receiver for now, and maybe get a little class D in the future.
At this point, I'm looking for help, tips, design ideas, etc.
Main goals:
-Natural, extended low end
-great imaging
-music mainly, but i know I could always add a couple capacitors (HPF 80hz) and a sub if I wanted to turn it loud on movies.
-Narrow tower with these at listening height.
I listen to everything from techno to Bach. Or maybe it's just techno AND Bach? Just help me make sure the 808's and pianos will all play nicely 😀
It seems like there are SO many designs out there for FR TL's, etc. Any recommendations for this driver? MLTL? TWQT? etc? Offset the driver?
Do I need some kind of baffle step circuit, since I prefer this to be a narrow (but maybe deep) cab?
thanks in advance...
Tang Band W6-2144 6-1/2" Paper Cone Full Range Driver 8 Ohm
They look amazing, weight 8lbs 3oz ! The last FR speaker I built (or my dad built?) I was probably 14, and it was just a closed box with spare speakers.
I'd like to build a TL or MLTL, maybe TWQT ?
I've built / designed ported boxes mainly, using win-ISD. Never used Hornresp or designed any horns / TLs. I actually monitor in the studio with some TL studio monitors, so I do like the clean deep bass I get, though it's not earth shaking.
These will be used for music mainly, but maybe the odd movie (especially for the kids). In the basement den. Not a huge room, so these will probably be kind of near a wall. I have some ceiling treatment in the room from when I used it for recording. I'll probably use my old Yamaha receiver for now, and maybe get a little class D in the future.
At this point, I'm looking for help, tips, design ideas, etc.
Main goals:
-Natural, extended low end
-great imaging
-music mainly, but i know I could always add a couple capacitors (HPF 80hz) and a sub if I wanted to turn it loud on movies.
-Narrow tower with these at listening height.
I listen to everything from techno to Bach. Or maybe it's just techno AND Bach? Just help me make sure the 808's and pianos will all play nicely 😀
It seems like there are SO many designs out there for FR TL's, etc. Any recommendations for this driver? MLTL? TWQT? etc? Offset the driver?
Do I need some kind of baffle step circuit, since I prefer this to be a narrow (but maybe deep) cab?
thanks in advance...
Haven't measured it! What's the average?
Is the treble going to beam enough to make it a crucial decision? Offset MLTL sounds great! I've liked all that I've heard of MLTL & Martin King's work.
Is the treble going to beam enough to make it a crucial decision? Offset MLTL sounds great! I've liked all that I've heard of MLTL & Martin King's work.
~38". If you have good hearing out to 20 kHz there's a some tolerance depending on chair, sofa, driver design, distance, but for most males it's not very critical, so what I use unless told otherwise.
GM
GM
Le .01 mH...this underhung voice coil deal is for real. Don't worry about the beaming, adapt to it. Should be good.
Haha I never could figure out how Le would even affect performance, but that sounds awesome. I never see inductance that low cone to think of it.
Not worried about beaming. I only need the listening chair a few times a week.
38" sounds familiar, let's go that!
OK, ~57.5 L net tuned to ~36 Hz mounted on a 1" thick/massive base plate. Due to low Xmax + specs dictating tuning < Fs, limited to 6-8 W down low.
All dims i.d., damp to taste [sim in LW just has some polyfil behind the driver]:
GM
All dims i.d., damp to taste [sim in LW just has some polyfil behind the driver]:
GM
If size isn't a problem, ~85.7 L net with a larger/shorter vent is more in the size range I prefer:
GM
GM
Larger size I understand will increase low end output, but the smaller would help control the cone better, limiting excursion?
In a BR, where the best overall trade-off between size, power handling is Vb = Vas/1.44 tuned to Fs, but MLTLs by their nature are acoustically large, so up to a point, larger = larger vent due to increased acoustic damping from its 1/4 WL pipe action, hence my preference which actually is way larger than my 'entry level' sim since my normal alignment requires an Av = Sd size vent.
GM
GM
Makes sense. So how do I translate those text files into charts and dimensions? I used to model everything in win ISD, but i don't know that I need to see every parameter here.
Does cross section shape matter? Or just that the box is the right height, matching your total volumes? Or is there a graphic program that I could punch those text files into?
Does cross section shape matter? Or just that the box is the right height, matching your total volumes? Or is there a graphic program that I could punch those text files into?
Figuring dimensions. Your sizes are roughly 2cu.ft. and 3cu.ft.
So an 8" wide box (external with 5/8" wood) can be 48" tall, 12" deep (2 ft3) - pushing it to 18" deep puts it at the larger size, 3 ft3! That's a good size indeed.
What do you figure the difference is in LF extension? Output?
So an 8" wide box (external with 5/8" wood) can be 48" tall, 12" deep (2 ft3) - pushing it to 18" deep puts it at the larger size, 3 ft3! That's a good size indeed.
What do you figure the difference is in LF extension? Output?
Oops! So use to folks around here using Hornresp to a greater or lesser extent that the best way is to EXPORT/post the .txt file for download to HR's IMPORT folder, then load it into a proper RECORD to view, copy, save, rename, modify/whatever, so now's as good a time as any to install it: Hornresp
Official 'sticky' thread: Hornresp
GM
Official 'sticky' thread: Hornresp
GM
Would someone be kind enough to post the Hornresp output/specs from GM’s .txt file for those of us who can’t run HR because we don’t have a Windows computer?
Well, I grew up back when 3 ft^3 was a bookshelf speaker and still have a hard time enjoying the tiny, super inefficient speakers popular today for other than talk radio and similar.
Once you get HR going you'll see the internal height [i.d.] is ~56.19" i.d., so WxD isn't very big and have all the other details except for one and that's the vent location. HR can only show it going out the bottom, but will actually be ~56.19*0.848 = ~47.65" i.d. down from the top. If you look at the Power/Chamber/Combined you'll see that there's a 'Path' length distance to account for this.
As noted earlier both are tuned to ~36 Hz, so ~flat to ~40 Hz with the main difference being increased acoustic damping with the larger alignment, which in turn boosts the very bottom end a little bit.
Note too that when viewing the design, do it in the Loudspeaker Wizard [LW] as it shows it with stuffing and has some advanced features if interested.
Note too that HR doesn't take any associated acoustic damping losses into account, so see a lot of sharp peaks, etc., that are either much reduced or not there is reality, so if simmed really smooth with lots of stuffing it will tend to be over damped if one uses the recommended amount, hence my recommendation to damp to 'taste'.
Anyway, sure you'll have Qs like everyone else figuring out HR, but it has a large HELP FILE with a FIND feature plus the official thread and of course me and others to answer specific Qs if you can't find it on your own.
GM
Ok, I'm learning more about Hornresp! Installed... Finally got both records imported to compare...
Question GM; why the big peak at 40hz in your design? The other looks perfect/flat.
(Btw started breaking these in... They sound beautiful already! Imaging... Bam! )
...
(PS bonus points if you can tell me what the little yellow drivers are)
Question GM; why the big peak at 40hz in your design? The other looks perfect/flat.
(Btw started breaking these in... They sound beautiful already! Imaging... Bam! )
...
(PS bonus points if you can tell me what the little yellow drivers are)