Forty years ago I went to KEF on an AES visit. Their head technical honcho (Laurie Fincham) reckoned that the hardest part to make consistently in a loudpseaker was the voice coil. So, yes, it might be possible to rewind a voice coil, but the end result is unlikely to be identical to the original.
100% agreed.
Like I have said earlier in this thread, it takes a great bit of skill, r&d, fabrication, and investment in equipment and materials to become proficient at winding usable voice coils, and nothing about it is even remotely easy. That is why there are only a few people that do it. I remember trying to talk to the guys at Precision Econowind about some help with some stuff that was fighting me and they pretty much told me to **** off, "our process is proprietary".
Which parts of copying another Voicecoil do you find difficult. Maybe it can be discussed here and may help in the process. Are there any that are different and harder to copy. What about the more expensive speakers. Are the coils in those special or unique in any way.?
Cheers
Cheers
I would not recommend epoxy which can't stand minimun 300C, this one or similar is recommend! https://www.hernon.com/voice-coil-bonder-360-2
low temperature epoxy turns into something more like a rubber product when temperature is added to it, therefore the speaker changes its properties and that is not good! The glue must withstand high temperatures and not change its properties at the same time!
I can tell you this from personal experience as I was a self-taught speaker winder as a kid and I have a lot of experience with different types of coil glues having tried countless different ones, early clear coats, potting resins, super glues..etc.
What's with the idea to have a stationary voice coil which can therefore be perfectly cooled driving a small and strong neodymium N52 ring with right polarity distribution glued to a carbon tube which is attached to the loudspeaker cone?
The necessity for temperature resistant "high end" voice coil manufacturing could be omitted like this.
The necessity for temperature resistant "high end" voice coil manufacturing could be omitted like this.
Attachments
the heat factor can be omitted like this alltogether.
Also some faraday ring can get the inductance down.
Only you have to look for yellow spiders which have no diameter cut out in the center as you will use a carbon tube which is only some millimeters thin.
Also ready made cones have usually a cut out which is too large.
But all this can easily be put together if you can DIY make the "heart" of the driver, the chassis with a 3d printer.
Also some faraday ring can get the inductance down.
Only you have to look for yellow spiders which have no diameter cut out in the center as you will use a carbon tube which is only some millimeters thin.
Also ready made cones have usually a cut out which is too large.
But all this can easily be put together if you can DIY make the "heart" of the driver, the chassis with a 3d printer.
the advantage to bmr speakers is you still can have real excursion making a compact 20 cm fullrange driver which has some real bass.
The difficulty is that every part of the coil has to be done correctly, otherwise it will fall apart. The former has to be prepped correctly, you have to use the correct adhesives, the correct tension on the wire, your winding setup has to be perfect or the wire will skip around, the proper collar reinforcement and bonding it correctly, managing the lead wires through the collar, the right curing procedure, being able to remove the coil off the mandrel without damaging it. If all of those things are not perfect, the coil will come apart or fail. There is nothing more infuriating than winding and curing a perfect coil, only for it to get stuck on the mandrel and a winding pops loose while you're trying to get it off.
its clear, if promoted its used for special purposes like bandpass boxes and horns...
nice to see someone realized it.
I only wrote on this diy solution because making good voice coils is a science for itself.
Always cheaper to buy a speaker than diy. But a moving magnet system seems easier to realize I think.
With modern neodym it should be possible to get decent results.
I would only wind one layer coils as a beginner.
Less inductivity, Lowther once claimed they make one layer coils (for reduced inductivity)
Yea I’d definitely like to have a go at it.
I’ve got one from a B&W 601 S3. It doesn’t look that great really. Very neat though. Wires go straight up in both sides. Part of it is missing as it overheated. Bottom wires are still stuck together though. Like an idiot I put the amp in the red. I’ve got to make 2 ,if I don’t get someone to do it.
It’s a custom size ,as you can’t get them. ID is 30.48.