I have a pair of Visaton W170S (4 ohm). I figured that for the Christmas holidays, I should start a new project with these and a something for the upper end, perhaps the Peerless 2" full range. The crossover could be something like 500 Hz. I was thinking of doing a 30l bass reflex enclosure for the bass (like the Visaton webpage suggests), and sealed enclosure for the Peerless, separated from eachother but in the same speaker box nevertheless.
I haven't got much experience designing speakers so help is much appreciated
I haven't got much experience designing speakers so help is much appreciated
looks to be good beginners project, 30L tuned to ~40Hz, although I'd be inclined to crossover lower, say 300Hz, and overlap the crossover for BSC, i.e. use 1st order xover but make the crossover point higher for the woofer... this will depend on the cabinet width, but will ultimately be a tweaking choice.
I'm not sure how accurate the published specs of Visaton drivers are, but should get you in the ballpark - you may have to tweak the box tuning, measure the drivers if you can... have fun...
I'm not sure how accurate the published specs of Visaton drivers are, but should get you in the ballpark - you may have to tweak the box tuning, measure the drivers if you can... have fun...
Seems reasonable. I am mostly concerned if the two elements even can be put together without the project failing hard. Thanks for the advice, I might get building soon after christmas. If anyone has input to my project, please say so, every advice is appreciated.
Im building with some visaton drivers at the moment and i have found that the in the majority the TS specs are within about 5% except Vas which in my case was about 7-10% lower than published. This being said, the summed effect of the variations ferm specs did little or nothing at ball to change the finished alignment, and F3 only changed a couple of Hz at the most. So in short, i wouldnt be too concerned about this. Either way, i have noticed they update them fairly often, or have updated them about twice since i bought the drivers and they are now much closer to what i have measured/calculated.
I have recently looked at the w170s and indeed w130s for a 'budget system for a friend. Whilst i dont think they come close to the 'HI end' drivers visaton offer, i believe that the smooth breakup of these drivers is ideally suited to a beginner project; either conventional 2 way or bass and FR idea you are considering. In short i dont think you can go far wrong with those drivers, provided you can find a 2" FR that meets the performance of the w170. In terms of effeciency and decent power handling, considering a 1st order slope will still pass a fair amount of LF to the FR driver. As Pete says using an overlapping Xover(or maybe even asymetric?) to provide some BSC to the project would be useful. personally i would probably use 1st order LP for the w170, and a 2nd order HP for the FR driver. I think im right in saying the difference in phase using either type of xover will be small anyway, just one more cap in signal path would be the disadvantage. better power handling and control of the FR would be the benefit. (corrections if not Pete 🙂)
I have nothing but good words for the AL130 and AL200 bass drivers, although it may pay you to look at the 8 Ohm version, the w170s 8, unless you NEED a 4 Ohm system.
Good luck, im sure the visatons wont disappoint.
EDIT: ok i see the peerless is 4 Ohm... FR looks good, the only worrying thing is no Xmax is stated, not that it is of ultimate inportance, but it is worth considering if you intend on playing loud, even WITH a HP filter at 200Hz
Last edited:
hello.
i think you will not fail hard..............there are boxes with the w170 and a fullrange,here is an example
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
you must not build the w170 into the side wall or make a small baffle.......but you can do if you like that.
greetings
Thanks for the informative post, 1st order LP for the W170 and 2nd order HP for the Peerless 2" FR sounds like a good choice. The thing is, I already own the 4 ohm elements, so I'm not too keen on ordering another pair. Would the 8 ohm version really be worth ordering a new pair?
I'd use what you've got, actually I think the 4 ohm version will give you a bit more control over BSC & bass level...
(& a smaller inductor) - have a fun Xmas...
(& a smaller inductor) - have a fun Xmas...
Last edited:
Thanks for the posts everyone, and Merry Christmas!
The current plan is a 30l bassreflex for the Visaton, a small sealed enclosure for the Peerless, and the crossover as PeteMcK and mondogenerator suggested. I'll get building soon, and post pics and listening experiences when they are ready.
The current plan is a 30l bassreflex for the Visaton, a small sealed enclosure for the Peerless, and the crossover as PeteMcK and mondogenerator suggested. I'll get building soon, and post pics and listening experiences when they are ready.
Sorry for the double post, but I'm bumping this for a question. Minding the budget, how much worse is the result if I do a 1st order HP for the full range? Big inductors are damn expensive 
I've done a project similar to this, went well.
I used a pair of W130S per side. 1st order at 300Hz. Used a FRS8M, 2nd order at 300Hz. I'd advise the FR's XO to be 3rd order - at higher volumes, I can see the excursion.
Edit - how many amps you got - you could do an active XO - much cheaper. IMO, go for it - I did and wasn't disappointed.
Chris
I used a pair of W130S per side. 1st order at 300Hz. Used a FRS8M, 2nd order at 300Hz. I'd advise the FR's XO to be 3rd order - at higher volumes, I can see the excursion.
Edit - how many amps you got - you could do an active XO - much cheaper. IMO, go for it - I did and wasn't disappointed.
Chris
I don't why you need to cross the midbass so low. It is good till 3000-4000Hz or atleast let it do until 2000Hz and let the tweeter to take over. Then the tweeter won't work so much and create other problems. Still don't know why Visaton ditch the titanium tweeter, SC4ND which can go low to around 2000Hz.
If you already have the parts, then i wouldnt be bothered at all about the 4 Ohm value, unless of course your amplifier isnt capable of powering loads of that impedance.
In any other respect i doubt there is any significant difference between the w170s4 and w170s8
In respect to the cross over...pete may be able to help, as im not exactly an expert in this field!! I have designed my own and tweated it to give a flat response BY EAR, referencing to a stolen design on another speaker with the same drivers. So i guess 2nd order HP for the FR at about 350Hz and 1st order at around 500Hz would be a good starting place, if you are tweaking by ear that is, and should be about right for BSC on the baffle sizes you would be looking at. Pete may be able to help you out with some simulations if you ask nicely LOL.
Good luck, im sure youll be impressed with the result. Would love to see pics and hear about development of the project as it progresses.
Last edited:
Pete : Yup, agree with you on this, but then if were to high pass the midrange that low, you may lost some of the details.
2-Way Crossover Designer / Calculator
THe above is a good site for basic crossover calculations. Just done my simple 2-way(BG20 and DTW72) using the above, the result is not bad.
2-Way Crossover Designer / Calculator
THe above is a good site for basic crossover calculations. Just done my simple 2-way(BG20 and DTW72) using the above, the result is not bad.
WRT the XO - the ears are most sensitive in the 300-3000Hz range. A crossover in there would have an adverse effect on the sound (to an extent). This is why people prefer FR drivers to traditional 2-way midbass and tweeters.
I prefer a 3-way system which will cover all. Like Visaton fullrange drivers are good till 10000Hz only.
kyheng, you don't seem to read the posts or have your attention in here.😕 (I know what you mean, that u like 3-ways but this is not one)
The "main" speaker is Peerless 2" full range not a Visaton (as in the 1st post).
Last edited:
^I was refering to Chris's reply on post#15 basicly. There's other factors 1 may consider before selecting the drivers and build them, like each driver's sensitivity is 1 important thing. I do understand what TS want.
BTW to TS, is better that you get some MOX resistors on stand by. You may need it for the W170S. 10 or 15ohm will be a good start. Bass too strong sometimes is not a good idea...
BTW to TS, is better that you get some MOX resistors on stand by. You may need it for the W170S. 10 or 15ohm will be a good start. Bass too strong sometimes is not a good idea...
Last edited:
kyheng: indeed, especially in an apartment building. But for now, I'll try 1st order LP at 300 Hz or 500 Hz, and 3rd order HP at 350 Hz. If the bass needs dampening, I need to buy some resistors. Since I have no measuring equipment, I need to measure and tune the speakers by ears.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.