You will need it as both of your drivers have a different sensitivity. They may not able to match each other sometimes. Lucky thing is all your drivers are same impedence, else it will be more complicated.
For me, when building a set, I will ask myself which will be the main actor(just like watching movies) in the system. Like yours, if you want more from the 2", a resistor is needed.
For me, when building a set, I will ask myself which will be the main actor(just like watching movies) in the system. Like yours, if you want more from the 2", a resistor is needed.
I'm glad you took my advice on the crossover.
With mine (2nd order), I found that, at higher volumes, inter-modulation became an issue, as the cone was moving 2mm p/p. This sounds very small, but on a small speaker, it has serious effects. I experimented on foobar, went active and bi-amped the system for a while. The sound, especially at higher volumes, is clearer. I hope you enjoy these speakers.
Chris
With mine (2nd order), I found that, at higher volumes, inter-modulation became an issue, as the cone was moving 2mm p/p. This sounds very small, but on a small speaker, it has serious effects. I experimented on foobar, went active and bi-amped the system for a while. The sound, especially at higher volumes, is clearer. I hope you enjoy these speakers.
Chris
I think that if I put 1st order on LP, it will be a 90 degree phase shift on the bass, which I can correct by reversing the polarity on the full range, which has 3rd order phase shift (270 degrees), bringing the both elements to same, 90 degree phase shift. I also dislike the idea of a small cone speaker trying to desperately pump up bass frequensies, so I stretched my budget a bit and went for the 3rd order. And regarding bi-amping, I have only one amplifier that I'm going to power these with.
Yup, with higher order, phase tends to change. But at first try them on phase, if sounded not right, then only change polarity. For 2-way system, that's not a big issue....
I used a mono amp for the bass while bi-amping them. It was to give a rough idea on foobar, rather than anything serious.
It sounds like you have it all figured out,Mayuri. I wish you the best of luck with your new speakers.
Chris
It sounds like you have it all figured out,Mayuri. I wish you the best of luck with your new speakers.
Chris
Thanks Chris. Further discussion and advices are welcome, especially concerning dampening of the enclosure.
I will update this thread as the project moves onwards. I should be able to veneer the enclosure next weekend, and if I have enough time, maybe even attach the speaker elements.
I will update this thread as the project moves onwards. I should be able to veneer the enclosure next weekend, and if I have enough time, maybe even attach the speaker elements.
I don't know what you use for a source but implementing the filters on a computer if you use that as a source is free (assuming a multi channel sound card) apart from the time needed to learn to use the software and in conjunction with a mesurment setup allows for digital room correction:
Main Page - DRC
Main Page - DRC
With my (5 year old) pc, anything more than a simple XO, and it becomes unbearably slow. That's with a 3.2GHz single core, 1Gb ram, and a sound card.
Like I said, I use foobar, mainly because it's free, but when the XO is running, I can't run anything else. I am forced to listen.
Mayuri, it might be worth a quick look on the Visaton website. Somewhere on there, they have a piece of software that will allow you to sim (at least some of) your speakers. It only allows Visaton drivers, but the upside is it will calculate it's XO slopes from the values you put it. It also does things like baffle edge diffraction (I think - the one where the response changes according to baffle width), and you can alter the stuffing in different positions. The other downside is that it's all in German, but I can explain most of it to you, if you so wish.
Chris
Like I said, I use foobar, mainly because it's free, but when the XO is running, I can't run anything else. I am forced to listen.
Mayuri, it might be worth a quick look on the Visaton website. Somewhere on there, they have a piece of software that will allow you to sim (at least some of) your speakers. It only allows Visaton drivers, but the upside is it will calculate it's XO slopes from the values you put it. It also does things like baffle edge diffraction (I think - the one where the response changes according to baffle width), and you can alter the stuffing in different positions. The other downside is that it's all in German, but I can explain most of it to you, if you so wish.
Chris
^Chris is the man, haha. But I ended up hit an e-mail to Visaton's tech support and they are very good on answering your questions.
1 thing I like Visaton speakers are they like big enclosure. Upto certain extend, I will say bigger means more bass.
1 thing I like Visaton speakers are they like big enclosure. Upto certain extend, I will say bigger means more bass.
It takes some time to learn.
Chris do you speak German?
The software accepts speaker measurement files, I think. In case there is a need (for close simulation purpose only) maybe there is a 2" Visaton similar to the Peerless 2" full range, until you have real measurement files, that you can use to make a good view of the final xover.
I have the W130SC Mid (€34,20/u) and G20SC Tweeters (€49,80/u) in a box (retail/Portugal). 😎
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^If not mistaken, there's a place that you can input manually the parameters. You got a high end tweeter...
And another thing is, Visaton's FR only can go relatively(can I use this word?) flat till 10000Hz only. While Peerless can go till 16000Hz...
And another thing is, Visaton's FR only can go relatively(can I use this word?) flat till 10000Hz only. While Peerless can go till 16000Hz...
Nope, I don't speak German.
I simple fiddled around with the program until I knew everything I needed to know.
If you wish, I'll start a thread over in Software, to help people use it. I'm sure there's more than one person needing help.
It's true that Visaton woofers like bigger enclosures. I think it's the W17SE that will go in a 60L box tuned 27Hz, and that'll do flat to around 28Hz, from a 6" woofer. I mean, that's comming close to my pair of 8" woofers.
I simple fiddled around with the program until I knew everything I needed to know.
If you wish, I'll start a thread over in Software, to help people use it. I'm sure there's more than one person needing help.
It's true that Visaton woofers like bigger enclosures. I think it's the W17SE that will go in a 60L box tuned 27Hz, and that'll do flat to around 28Hz, from a 6" woofer. I mean, that's comming close to my pair of 8" woofers.
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It would be much appreciated. Due to their low cost and availability, I think I just might use Visaton drivers in the future too, and it would be nice to be able to simulate the drivers somehow. I usually use WinISD for simulations.
Chris : Please do so, I guess alot of people will be happy with it.
Talk about WS17E, I'm using it right now in my car. Last time I use it as my sub, with my boot as enclosure(consider as IB). And it do pound like a real sub. But because of its displacement, so the actual punch is not that good.
Visaton drivers are good, considering the cost. But I just not that like their high end lineups except the woofer, TIW300. Others I just not that like them.
Talk about WS17E, I'm using it right now in my car. Last time I use it as my sub, with my boot as enclosure(consider as IB). And it do pound like a real sub. But because of its displacement, so the actual punch is not that good.
Visaton drivers are good, considering the cost. But I just not that like their high end lineups except the woofer, TIW300. Others I just not that like them.
And I thought my bucket/cardboard enclosure was hardcore 😀
But nice to hear that the element actually works in this purpose. I can't wait to get the first sounds out of this system. The Visaton page claims that W170S goes as low as 39Hz in a 30l BR enclosure like I'm doing.
bigger box bigger displacement = better bass as long as the tuning is optimum for Vas etc...law of physics 101
Mayuri : Depending on applications, for your's, I will choose WS17E as W170S can sing(means can go higher till 3000-4000Hz) unlike WS17E that sound muffled at that range. But since you already bought it, just play around with it, it won't disappoint you.
mondogenerator : I agrre with you on this... But then tuning is still the most important factor.
mondogenerator : I agrre with you on this... But then tuning is still the most important factor.
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