eurpoe audio took ages to recieve my parts.. but once they despatched it was here 2 days later. i was supprised. so in other words if it is in stock, you should get it soon enough, but if it isnt and there waiting on there manufactorers then it could be a lot longer. maybe i was just unlucky. it took them almost a month to recieve my tweeters... i doubt very much they would happen to you
those speakers look abit dumb in my opinion. surely just a woofer and tweeter on a baffle facing the same way would sound better... but im no professional, that is just my opinion
crossover looks simple though
those speakers look abit dumb in my opinion. surely just a woofer and tweeter on a baffle facing the same way would sound better... but im no professional, that is just my opinion
crossover looks simple though
Yep, the midbass has sensitivity in the mid 80s, the FRS8M in the high 80s.
I suspect that setup put near a wall would be okay, but free-standing would sound thin without eq.
WaveinForm, FR drivers are rather good at midrange performance - I'm yet to hear a conventional 2-way that'll beat them there.
However, taking a small FR driver means limited bass response and power handling, so, to compensate, a larger driver has been used.
The concept behind it is sound, and I suspect you may be surprised by such a set-up.
I'd still stand by what I said about choice of FR driver - there's better out there.
Chris
Well, I´ve heard these little guys solo on needle guise, and they managed to pump out some bass, yes, in a small room... I´m sure that with a woofer aiding it, it can sound more complete at least.
But my guess is, this project is very appealing to the eye, so surely, bass performance would be boosted if the box was larger. So, maybe some compromises here...
i´ve been scratching my head for days trying to find a decent, appealing, cheap diy project and discarding the M version, I must say, I may take to plunge and build these...
Thanks for the tip Inductor! I´ll stick with the lower sensitivity version. 😀
But my guess is, this project is very appealing to the eye, so surely, bass performance would be boosted if the box was larger. So, maybe some compromises here...
i´ve been scratching my head for days trying to find a decent, appealing, cheap diy project and discarding the M version, I must say, I may take to plunge and build these...
Thanks for the tip Inductor! I´ll stick with the lower sensitivity version. 😀
Bubuxxl, if you do build the Stellas please post your build here as I would be really interested to hear how it goes.
Cheers Nick.
Cheers Nick.
Of course I would post my build here, I would be glad to. 🙂
But I really haven´t made up my mind yet, I´m still choosing what project to build next.
I mean, I´m acquainted with the little visaton drivers and know more or less what to expect from them. But for not much more, there are other appealing projects, such as the startairkit with peerless and vifa drivers and another one from markaudio.
I really just don´t know what to do... :S
I would like to get a break from full range drivers, but the concept behind the stella´s is very interesting. The live sound of a full range with some low frequency help and the simple crossover...
But I really haven´t made up my mind yet, I´m still choosing what project to build next.
I mean, I´m acquainted with the little visaton drivers and know more or less what to expect from them. But for not much more, there are other appealing projects, such as the startairkit with peerless and vifa drivers and another one from markaudio.
I really just don´t know what to do... :S
I would like to get a break from full range drivers, but the concept behind the stella´s is very interesting. The live sound of a full range with some low frequency help and the simple crossover...
STELLA LIGHT + FRS 8 M v.2 parallel conversion x-over
They certainly do. They are kind of obnoxious in their behavior. Difficult to model in different crossover configurations. I would go with a bigger box for the woofer 20-40 liters.😎
I did a simulation of the M's and it looks good on paper, I just don't know what to expect... well from a simulation. The frequency of crossover seams to low for such a small FR (M/tweeter) driver. But if it works as expected (on paper) that I doubt, it can be a good/excellent surprise.
In just giving you more ideas, not trying to push you into anything you don't like (simulations are not perfect), I manage to convert to a as similar as possible parallel crossover having in regard the design of a "new" crossover for this FR/M/tweeter. Without further testing (and the risk involved, money/time) you have to take this with a grain of salt.😀
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This thread reminds me that I have a dozen or so little 3inch full range on the shelf. Salvaged from many dead HT in a box systems.
Given the high cost of passive components what would you all consider the highest XO frequency you could use the FR at? As high as 350Hz? and halve the cost of the capacitors and coils??
Given the high cost of passive components what would you all consider the highest XO frequency you could use the FR at? As high as 350Hz? and halve the cost of the capacitors and coils??
That's a deep question. I'm guessing you don't want the bafflestep to start beaming the bass towards the side too much. So on a 10" depth to the cabinet, the upper limit is about 450 Hz:
Loudspeaker Diffraction Loss and Baffle Step Compensation Circuits
STELLA LIGHT + FRS 8 M v.3.2 x woofers
Couldn't resist doing a simulation for the double woofer version. Have in mind that each woofer/20 L = ~40 L in this case with better extension.
Notice that the speaker has a 85 dBSPL and some space for maneuver with the set-up for the mid frequencies, adjusting (or shunting) the 1R series resistor (stronger mids 1dB) and for the high frequencies, adjusting or not using the 15R parallel resistor (high frequencies +2dB).
I would say so...
Couldn't resist doing a simulation for the double woofer version. Have in mind that each woofer/20 L = ~40 L in this case with better extension.
Notice that the speaker has a 85 dBSPL and some space for maneuver with the set-up for the mid frequencies, adjusting (or shunting) the 1R series resistor (stronger mids 1dB) and for the high frequencies, adjusting or not using the 15R parallel resistor (high frequencies +2dB).
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There´s just too much trial and error for me here with the "M" version, but that´s because I´m dumb...
I´m a little strapped for cash right now to be experimenting so, I think I´ll catch up with this thread latter on. 🙁
funny thing though, despite this project´s high waf, the missus doesn´t seem to be inlove with their looks right now. Doesn´t look promising, damn... 🙁
I´m a little strapped for cash right now to be experimenting so, I think I´ll catch up with this thread latter on. 🙁
funny thing though, despite this project´s high waf, the missus doesn´t seem to be inlove with their looks right now. Doesn´t look promising, damn... 🙁
Clear your way, so you don't have to change to a new pair of speakers in the first year.😉 Test/check at the hi-fi store what she likes first. (If she says "Monitor Audio" you are in trouble...)😀
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oh, she´s really different from other women. She´s inlove with my "viech´s"! Bigger is better she says... :S
Damn, those look... horrible!
Damn, those look... horrible!
You have a nice 96dB Loudspeaker that is very difficult to surpass, if not for their size (Beyma 8AG/N horn or "the Viech").
Maybe only a 21 cm ( 8" ) wide range PHY H21 LB 15 PHY-HP (Haut parleurs)® - H 21 LB 15 with their supertweeter or a Fostex.😎
PHY-HP famous speakerunits made by former Bernard Salabert of France. - YouTube - Vid
http://www.phy-hp.com/English/Products/KM30_S_Analysis.html
Musical Affairs of Hans Kortenbach
You can also upgrade the components of your actual kit.
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That´s some nice research you got there Inductor, thanks a bunch! 😉
But the viech don´t need no tweeter, believe me! I removed the dustcap and inserted a kind of phase plug (little drawer knobs) and it worked amazingly well!
I´ve been thinking lately about adding the BSC to them, but they sound so cool already!
The sound they put out is just so effortless... a friend of mine recently auditioned a Rega brio amp, with rega loudspeakers and he just told me that as much as that system would cost, (over 1700 euros) it didn´t match my humble setup, a nad c316 with the viech... ups, I´m skipping the topic, sorry mods!
But the viech don´t need no tweeter, believe me! I removed the dustcap and inserted a kind of phase plug (little drawer knobs) and it worked amazingly well!
I´ve been thinking lately about adding the BSC to them, but they sound so cool already!
The sound they put out is just so effortless... a friend of mine recently auditioned a Rega brio amp, with rega loudspeakers and he just told me that as much as that system would cost, (over 1700 euros) it didn´t match my humble setup, a nad c316 with the viech... ups, I´m skipping the topic, sorry mods!
OK, that's on topic. Thought you had a valve amp, SET or something. I have a (new) NAD C326BEE connected to an Equalizer TAPCO T231 and a preamp/valve Audolici SVP1 in the box (2012) connected to 3-Ways JM Labs Chorus 826V speakers and it's working fine. Now I'm testing a different surround system for DVD's only so my main it's disconnected.😱
Maybe it´s because I don´t have a valve amp that the vieches never were too good with bass, they sound really thin and lean... thats why I was searching for a new project to build, I´m affraid I don´t have the necessary conditions to squeeze maximum performance from these gigantic boxes...
The stellas looked promising, but sensitivity is too low for my NAD. I can see you have an acquired taste of fiddling with EQ and crossovers. I like a simpler approach...
The stellas looked promising, but sensitivity is too low for my NAD. I can see you have an acquired taste of fiddling with EQ and crossovers. I like a simpler approach...
I remember from this and from a later thread (was it last year?) that you are not very happy with your approach.
You can make the stellas as a subwoofer only if you like them (passive or active sub). You can always replace or sell them if you don't like it.
You know it´s very hard to sell something like a diy loudspeaker right?
I really liked the idea behind the stellas, with a full range and a woofer...
I tell you, if the darn speakers (viech) had a little more, just a little more low end, they would me more than enough for me.
Maybe I could finish the vieche´s cabs and sell them?
Nobody cares about the viech thread anymore Inductor... 🙁
I really liked the idea behind the stellas, with a full range and a woofer...
I tell you, if the darn speakers (viech) had a little more, just a little more low end, they would me more than enough for me.
Maybe I could finish the vieche´s cabs and sell them?
Nobody cares about the viech thread anymore Inductor... 🙁
Some amps have Sub/out. You have two (three) alternatives. Change speakers and add a sub (or change the Beyma driver).
I never had a problem in the low end extension, maybe what you are lacking is only extension. And/because I had a horn calculated approx. 40Hz cut, on the woofer in this same old, from the mid 80's - 12" vintage HH made in the UK/~99dBSPL, PA speakers that where diy for home use with Beyma's CD/Horn+tweeter in a 3-way combination.🙂
Pi Speakers - Subwoofers and Multiple Subs for Modal Smoothing
I never had a problem in the low end extension, maybe what you are lacking is only extension. And/because I had a horn calculated approx. 40Hz cut, on the woofer in this same old, from the mid 80's - 12" vintage HH made in the UK/~99dBSPL, PA speakers that where diy for home use with Beyma's CD/Horn+tweeter in a 3-way combination.🙂
Pi Speakers - Subwoofers and Multiple Subs for Modal Smoothing
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