What do people think of this very elegant, simple and cheap kit?
STELLA LIGHT - Visaton 2-way column speaker DIY kit - per pair(5896) - Europe Audio
Has anyone in the UK used this company? They seem to be based in the Netherlands, what shipping to uk like?
my alternative thought is to build a similar arrangement using the CCS FR 125s I already have, with side mounted woofer. But I lack the skills to design the box and cross over......
Any help gratefully received🙂
STELLA LIGHT - Visaton 2-way column speaker DIY kit - per pair(5896) - Europe Audio
Has anyone in the UK used this company? They seem to be based in the Netherlands, what shipping to uk like?
my alternative thought is to build a similar arrangement using the CCS FR 125s I already have, with side mounted woofer. But I lack the skills to design the box and cross over......
Any help gratefully received🙂
What about this ?
Titan FAST One - Lautsprecher Selbstbau by blue planet acoustic
It incorporates the new Tang Band W3-1285 ( a little...pricey )
Titan FAST One - Lautsprecher Selbstbau by blue planet acoustic
It incorporates the new Tang Band W3-1285 ( a little...pricey )
Did something similar myself, based loosely around the Tysen design, though I used two W130S drivers to get force cancelling.
Crossover was first order on the woofers, 2nd order on the 3" driver, both aimed ~300Hz
The woofers were able to go far, far louder than the 3" driver ever could - turning it up past a point meant cone break-up came to the fore, so guitar solos and the like became very piercing. The only fix was to turn it down.
A higher (say, 500Hz) or steeper, or, better yet, both higher and steeper crossover should be used for decent dynamics.
Wait, my project used the higher efficiency M version of the FRS8, but their characteristics are similar.
I suspect using a driver from Mark Audio would have given better results - I tried a pair of Alpair 7.3s in a ported design crossed at 80Hz to a couple of tapped horns and they had no problem going fairly loud.
In conclusion, its a good idea, just use something else for the mid-high range.
Chris
Crossover was first order on the woofers, 2nd order on the 3" driver, both aimed ~300Hz
The woofers were able to go far, far louder than the 3" driver ever could - turning it up past a point meant cone break-up came to the fore, so guitar solos and the like became very piercing. The only fix was to turn it down.
A higher (say, 500Hz) or steeper, or, better yet, both higher and steeper crossover should be used for decent dynamics.
Wait, my project used the higher efficiency M version of the FRS8, but their characteristics are similar.
I suspect using a driver from Mark Audio would have given better results - I tried a pair of Alpair 7.3s in a ported design crossed at 80Hz to a couple of tapped horns and they had no problem going fairly loud.
In conclusion, its a good idea, just use something else for the mid-high range.
Chris
Stella & Titan are very much of the same inspiration & concept as Tysen, which i do know works well.
These all take advantage of small modern FRs with a helper woofer and a simple XO down low where XOs can be much less objectionable.
dave
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
These all take advantage of small modern FRs with a helper woofer and a simple XO down low where XOs can be much less objectionable.
dave
Since I've been visioning the thread on 'Large Waveguides' , I have in mind to put a little 2" in a big 8-10" ( not so big 😱 ) wg ,then on the same baffle two helper woofers. Of course I have three projects in mind : the first was an MTM ,then MMT , eventually W-T ....the T being a FR in WG 🙄
But the TB 3" on Blueplanet is new ,so more power brings new powerful projects .
But the TB 3" on Blueplanet is new ,so more power brings new powerful projects .
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I've heard the Stella during a visit at Visaton and it didn't sounded bad. A collegue however didn't liked it at all!
Such is live!
Such is live!
Guys, thanks for replies.
@Juergen, what did you like about the the Stella and what did your friend not like?
@Picowallspeaker, Titan is also a nice looking beast, possibly a bit more than I want to spend right now.
@Chris/Dave, I'll have a look at Tysen now to see what this is like.
@Inductor, you will have to go easy with me as I'm ok with the wood working and assembly part of things, but the finer points of speaker design is way beyond me. Are you saying there isn't much deep bass? If so I suppose that on such a compact design I Have to expect that.
@Juergen, what did you like about the the Stella and what did your friend not like?
@Picowallspeaker, Titan is also a nice looking beast, possibly a bit more than I want to spend right now.
@Chris/Dave, I'll have a look at Tysen now to see what this is like.
@Inductor, you will have to go easy with me as I'm ok with the wood working and assembly part of things, but the finer points of speaker design is way beyond me. Are you saying there isn't much deep bass? If so I suppose that on such a compact design I Have to expect that.
If you'd like to be able to actually hear and enjoy high frequencies from
your speakers to be, I suggest you avoid using Visaton FRS 8 "wide band"
driver. I have had couple of older versions with weaker magnets and I can
tell they were not up to the task.
FRS 8 costs 10 € and in this case is not nearly enough to get yourself a
really good wide band speaker.
It was a large listening room and the speaker sounded larger and bigger, than I would have expected from the chassis. Besides that I don't remember anything special, which is not bad at all. The friend had a different listening position and complaint about the "beaming".
Juergen, thanks for reply that sounds quite encouraging, I have experienced 'beaming' from some drivers and mostly this can addressed in a domestic situation. I'm having some further thoughts and may investigate a better FR driver than the one in the kit. I wasn't thinking of making this complicated or expensive, but you know how it goes! 😉
Thanks, Nick.
Thanks, Nick.
hi guys
I can see that the stella light kit uses a lower sensitivity version of the FRS8. However, theres a higher sensitivity driver dubbed FRS8 M, as we all know. What kind of changes would I have to make in the stellas crossover to use the M version?
IMHO, these drivers (M version) sound really good for not much money. Yes, they can be a bit ear piercing sometimes, but you can play with toe in for smoother high frequency results. Other than that, they sound really airy and transparent, with very good soundstage.
I must say, I´m pretty interested in this project... 😀
I can see that the stella light kit uses a lower sensitivity version of the FRS8. However, theres a higher sensitivity driver dubbed FRS8 M, as we all know. What kind of changes would I have to make in the stellas crossover to use the M version?
IMHO, these drivers (M version) sound really good for not much money. Yes, they can be a bit ear piercing sometimes, but you can play with toe in for smoother high frequency results. Other than that, they sound really airy and transparent, with very good soundstage.
I must say, I´m pretty interested in this project... 😀
bubuxxl, it should not be that difficult to change from one to the other. I'm more used to the parallel xovers but that's only a first order series. Use Visaton BoxSim. Boxsim - Homepage
Visaton FRS 8 8 OHM
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Visaton FRS 8 M 8 OHM
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Visaton FRS 8 8 OHM
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Visaton FRS 8 M 8 OHM
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
You can also use Visaton B 80 8 OHM new driver if you like more.😀
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Hey Inductor
My german ain´t that good and regarding audio diy, I can only "point and shoot" if you know what I mean... 😉 Pick a project and buy parts and glue them together!
Stuff about crossovers and such, I just don´t understand a thing.
Could you run the software for me and tell me if I would have to change a lot on the project? I mean, sensitivity wise, there´s a big difference beetween the FRS8 and the M version.
My german ain´t that good and regarding audio diy, I can only "point and shoot" if you know what I mean... 😉 Pick a project and buy parts and glue them together!
Stuff about crossovers and such, I just don´t understand a thing.
Could you run the software for me and tell me if I would have to change a lot on the project? I mean, sensitivity wise, there´s a big difference beetween the FRS8 and the M version.
Yes. And it changes the frequency output also off the 2 drivers what in a series crossover is a big problem for me for attenuation circuits because it affects both drivers. A big difference and an uneven output curve very loud in high frequencies because of higher SPL. Also another thing, a box that size is to small, it should have about double, or more the internal volume for that woofer.
1. STELLA LIGHT Art. No. 5896 Kit
2. STELLA LIGHT + FRS 8 M
Attachments
Am I missing something?
looks like using the FRS-M would mean needing 2 woofers for a balanced sound , looks bass shy when only using one.
Opposed woofers would be an advantage perhaps or going to an 8inch driver for the bass using a similar cabinet design.
For computer monitors and small rooms the original design does not look all that bad, Not good for large rooms of course.
looks like using the FRS-M would mean needing 2 woofers for a balanced sound , looks bass shy when only using one.
Opposed woofers would be an advantage perhaps or going to an 8inch driver for the bass using a similar cabinet design.
For computer monitors and small rooms the original design does not look all that bad, Not good for large rooms of course.
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