Looking for advice with Visaton FRS 8M
Hello,
Is there any builds with Visaton FRS 8M? I would love to have 4 of them (2 FRS 8M per enclosure).
Hello,
Is there any builds with Visaton FRS 8M? I would love to have 4 of them (2 FRS 8M per enclosure).
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Search 'Visaton FRS 8M' here where I got [58] hits: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/loudspeakers/
GM
GM
Maybe you could get inspiration from others (drivers).
Need help building open baffle/bass reflex hybrid
Need help building open baffle/bass reflex hybrid
Dual driver Nautaloss looks like an intresting idea, but complexity of making enclosures are kinda bummer. I know there is a specific plywood that is used for bending, but the sheet thickness is around 2 - 6 mm (would require a few sheets for a sturdy build). While 2 mm bends pretty easily but gettin to a thicker sheets it's start to get a little bit troublesome. It's a good idea, but I don't have proper tools to make them as perfect as possible. I would love to have CNC machine to make 5 mm cutouts for the bends that would save a lot of time and would be much better then just try to nail and glue bended sheets.
Just use foam core for the internal spiral if you don't want to use all foam core. It bends easily when you score light cuts on the concave side. They make bendy plywood but really, the self-damping properties of foam core makes it ideal (and better sounding) than plywood for the internal spiral. Very easy to make and adapt a conventional looking rectangular prismatic box to have a Nautaloss on the inside.
Another option is the Brio clone (partial OB on top and BR on bottom with identical drivers). Look for Brio thread.
FRS8 is basically a universal 3in full range that can be used in many projects. The TC9FD is smoother and probably better sounding though, IMO.
Another option is the Brio clone (partial OB on top and BR on bottom with identical drivers). Look for Brio thread.
FRS8 is basically a universal 3in full range that can be used in many projects. The TC9FD is smoother and probably better sounding though, IMO.
OK, I just searched the big TABAQ thread and there's a number of folks that's built/recommend the original TABAQ: TABAQ Tang Band Quarter Wave | audioXpress
For every doubling of drivers you double the box volume [Vb] and number of vents or in the TABAQ's case, double the cab's internal width. That, or make a same area duct based on whatever cab width you want, i.e. 2 or 4x taller duct if wanting to keep it the same width, ditto make the depth 2 or 4x deeper.
If done this way, it raises the tuning some, though don't know how much and can only make a guess with Hornresp.
If just going wider, the higher aspect ratio vent tunes it ~2 Hz lower, so in theory need to shorten the vent to 7 cm, so all things considered, might be better using a single round tube os similar or larger area and start too long [> ~15 cm] and shorten it till satisfied, i.e. tune to 'taste' in room, which is a good plan for every build IME.
GM
from Pairing Ribbon Tweeters Vertical + Horizontal
"I use FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton
$9 Visaton FRS 8M – Thomann United States (even cheaper in the US then in Europe? (€9,50))
2 in parallel (4Ohm) or 4 in parallel series (8Ohm) match the Dayton mini planar perfect in output with a 5kHz x-over.
Be aware that frs 8 and frs 8m are different drivers."
I use these sealed with 1 or more sealed subs crossed over at 150Hz.
You will have to use a separate tweeter to get great highs and to avoid heavy comb filtering issues when you use more then 1 driver.
Great drivers!
"I use FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton
$9 Visaton FRS 8M – Thomann United States (even cheaper in the US then in Europe? (€9,50))
2 in parallel (4Ohm) or 4 in parallel series (8Ohm) match the Dayton mini planar perfect in output with a 5kHz x-over.
Be aware that frs 8 and frs 8m are different drivers."
I use these sealed with 1 or more sealed subs crossed over at 150Hz.
You will have to use a separate tweeter to get great highs and to avoid heavy comb filtering issues when you use more then 1 driver.
Great drivers!
This thing is bothering me, because I dont fully understand it. I heard about it like 10 years ago when i was just a kid. Can you explain what does it do and how it works? And is it sensible when using two drivers? Maybe do you have a suggestion for tweeter?
I tried to simulate TABAQ with Visaton FRS 8M in the Hornresp and it doesn't look good. So I assume that Hornresp is not a good way to simulate it or I don't know how to do it (see attachment)?
Attachments
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YouTube
YouTube
I went with sealed boxes, used winisd, put a single driver in 3 different size pvc pipes to listen to the options and liked the smallest (~0,75 liter) best with a little damping material on the sides. They are very loud and clean as long as you don't ask them to produce bass.
The dayton mini planar is so thin that I put them in the middle partly in front of the 2 or 4 visatons. Minimal baffle in a piece of vertical pvc pipe works best so far; I love their detailed sound and great off axis response.
How/where do you want to use the speakers and do you already have an amp and sub?
YouTube
I went with sealed boxes, used winisd, put a single driver in 3 different size pvc pipes to listen to the options and liked the smallest (~0,75 liter) best with a little damping material on the sides. They are very loud and clean as long as you don't ask them to produce bass.
The dayton mini planar is so thin that I put them in the middle partly in front of the 2 or 4 visatons. Minimal baffle in a piece of vertical pvc pipe works best so far; I love their detailed sound and great off axis response.
How/where do you want to use the speakers and do you already have an amp and sub?
A bit of both actually. 
MJK's MathCad worksheets used for the article is the best IME, but no longer available.
Please Export HR file as a post attachment when wanting to share.
Please Import/open to view my more correct sim showing its correct 'S2/S3' length and 'L' shaped vent due to small gap between the slot vent [duct] and rear plate [attached].
Note that HR's 'raw' response plots have no acoustic losses accounted for, so unless you know from experience how it will likely be in reality, best to use the Wizard tool to fine tune, add damping.
GM
MJK's MathCad worksheets used for the article is the best IME, but no longer available.Please Export HR file
Please Import/open to view my more correct sim showing its correct 'S2/S3' length and 'L' shaped vent due to small gap between the slot vent [duct] and rear plate [attached].
Note that HR's 'raw' response plots have no acoustic losses accounted for, so unless you know from experience how it will likely be in reality, best to use the Wizard tool to fine tune, add damping.
GM
Youtube links were really helpful, thanks a lot, that's a valuable information! I'm going to use them in my room as a universal speakers for PC/TV. The reason i'm doing this is because i'm curious to hear them out and how do they sound. Amplifier I have is Koda KD-261. I dont have a subwoofer and I will think about it when I have understanding on Visaton FRS8M ability to reproduce sound.
Looks like a made a lot of mistakes simulating TABAQ in the Hornresp. For a damping material is this good enough?
Looks like a made a lot of mistakes simulating TABAQ in the Hornresp. For a damping material is this good enough?
You're welcome!
Don't see why not other than it's probably more expensive than it needs to be. The main thing is not to initially over-damp them by stuffing too much in them since the HR simmed recommendation tends to do it according to folks that have reported back to me, so start with ~1/4 and go from there. All you're really trying to do is get rid of any 'hollow' sound.
GM
Don't see why not other than it's probably more expensive than it needs to be. The main thing is not to initially over-damp them by stuffing too much in them since the HR simmed recommendation tends to do it according to folks that have reported back to me, so start with ~1/4 and go from there. All you're really trying to do is get rid of any 'hollow' sound.
GM
I will have that in my mind. However I find classification of damping material, but I can't find to buy them at all. Only this "Visaton Damping Material". Probably the issue is that I don't know how they are called. Can you link some of them?
I tried to simulate x2 FRS8M in a TABAQ enclosure so I would like to know if I did it right (see attachments #1). I did some sketchup work to check how they gonna look like (see attachments #2). The question I have right now is there any difference how the speakers are mounted? In this case together in the front or opposite when one in front another in the back? And what else should I be concerned about while making TABAQ?
I tried to simulate x2 FRS8M in a TABAQ enclosure so I would like to know if I did it right (see attachments #1). I did some sketchup work to check how they gonna look like (see attachments #2). The question I have right now is there any difference how the speakers are mounted? In this case together in the front or opposite when one in front another in the back? And what else should I be concerned about while making TABAQ?
Attachments
![[TABAQ] x2 Visaton FRS8M.jpg](/community/data/attachments/733/733351-9939cf3c27de14f54247703dc423d52b.jpg)
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