If it were me making a "new" model 19 and I absolutely had to have the same shape and size of cabinet, I'd go with 16ga Solen round wire type inductors. Only because they have similar DCR and the values available are quite close to the originals.
That said, I would likely make a taller cab with the port at the bottom and good bracing and I'd use a 511 horn (because I have them as well). There's no magic about the 19 shape, just a mid 70's decor choice for the disco / playboy magazine crowd. I think those are the people that wanted bigger equipment🙂
That said, I would likely make a taller cab with the port at the bottom and good bracing and I'd use a 511 horn (because I have them as well). There's no magic about the 19 shape, just a mid 70's decor choice for the disco / playboy magazine crowd. I think those are the people that wanted bigger equipment🙂
Hi EarlK, I just wanted to let you know that I have already sourced my inductors and resisters. For the 0.77MH I purchased 0.75MH 14AWG and for the 0.3MH I purchased a 0.33MH 14AWG, both air core from Solens. For the 2.7MH inductor I purchased a 2.7MH, 16AWG Erse iron core inductor. I did a lot of reading about inductors and it seemed that for LF it's best to use iron core and use air core for the rest. Heavier gauge wire seemed to be preferred as well, lower resistance.
For resistors I used Dayton Audio 10W non inductive and I used Parts Express 100W L-Pad attenuators.
I also purchased Solens Polypropylene caps with the closest values I could find. Just a few days after all my parts came in I came across a bunch of the oil filled caps and from reading it seemed that they would be a better way to proceed.
Using my Data Precision 938 cap tester I was surprised that most of them were within 5% of stated value. So I decided to head down this avenue.
My game plan is to use short terminal strips where the caps mount on the boards so I can bunch the oil caps next to the rest of the parts and wire them in. I can also just mount the Solens or other cap types directly to the terminal strips for comparison.
Sure is a lot to learn about crossovers, never had any idea.
Bill
For resistors I used Dayton Audio 10W non inductive and I used Parts Express 100W L-Pad attenuators.
I also purchased Solens Polypropylene caps with the closest values I could find. Just a few days after all my parts came in I came across a bunch of the oil filled caps and from reading it seemed that they would be a better way to proceed.
Using my Data Precision 938 cap tester I was surprised that most of them were within 5% of stated value. So I decided to head down this avenue.
My game plan is to use short terminal strips where the caps mount on the boards so I can bunch the oil caps next to the rest of the parts and wire them in. I can also just mount the Solens or other cap types directly to the terminal strips for comparison.
Sure is a lot to learn about crossovers, never had any idea.
Bill
Hi Bill,
Seems you're all set to start building! Have at it then 🙂 .
FWIW, I also use Solens ( over top of my motor-runs ) within my Cascaded cap setups ( on my Altec drivers ).
If you find the Solens a bit brash at first listen then you might want to ( after removal ) hit them up with a DC charge ( say from a 9V battery ).
Let them sit charged for a couple of days & then discharge them ( grounding the charged caps positive terminal ) before re-installation. Use a DMM to make sure they are actually discharged before putting back into your network.
The dc swells the windings somewhat, helping flatten out physical wrinkles between the layers ( anything but a perfectly tensioned dielectric/insulator winding, can and will lead to audible resonances ).
Have fun!
🙂
Seems you're all set to start building! Have at it then 🙂 .
FWIW, I also use Solens ( over top of my motor-runs ) within my Cascaded cap setups ( on my Altec drivers ).
If you find the Solens a bit brash at first listen then you might want to ( after removal ) hit them up with a DC charge ( say from a 9V battery ).
Let them sit charged for a couple of days & then discharge them ( grounding the charged caps positive terminal ) before re-installation. Use a DMM to make sure they are actually discharged before putting back into your network.
The dc swells the windings somewhat, helping flatten out physical wrinkles between the layers ( anything but a perfectly tensioned dielectric/insulator winding, can and will lead to audible resonances ).
Have fun!
🙂
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If you don't want to have to worry about (or fix) as-purchased problematic cap windings, I suggest you consider Mundorf or Clarity Cap. They seem to have solved the winding issues in spades.
Just about all of the useful info on DC-Biasing capacitors, resides over at the Lansing Heritage Forum.
JBL calls it Charge-Coupling ( & include the topology in many of their TOTL models > by implementing Solen caps ).
As a Foot-Note;
If one can't hear any audible effects when driving an AC signal through a device holding a DC charge, then IME one should save their money ( & just buy basic ) and not pursue trying to make sense ( of what to buy ) in the hype-inflated world of custom capacitors.
🙂
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