What test haven’t I done that would give me any info. I still get issue with nothing connected to power amps and power amps inputs turned to zero. Didn’t have a way to short inputs. Power amps don’t have mains earth so already done the remove earth on power amp test and issue still persists. I assumed the list was a start here and if issue goes away keep going till it comes back. However issue was still there on step one so why would I need to continue with rest of tests?
Will grab some plug covers to short inputs so can be complete. But noise persisting with everything unplugged from power amps, power amp input turned to zero and no earth on power amp then have we not shown the noise is at power amp part of chain?
Will grab some plug covers to short inputs so can be complete. But noise persisting with everything unplugged from power amps, power amp input turned to zero and no earth on power amp then have we not shown the noise is at power amp part of chain?
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Your speakers and cables are a constant in all your experiments--- not saying they are at fault, but be mindful.
Does click occur with headphones and speakers disconnected?
Maybe try your amps at a friend's place, i.e. different environment and speakers.
P.S. I may have overlooked in the narrative, but have you tried with all source cables disconnected at amp and only speakers connected?
Does click occur with headphones and speakers disconnected?
Maybe try your amps at a friend's place, i.e. different environment and speakers.
P.S. I may have overlooked in the narrative, but have you tried with all source cables disconnected at amp and only speakers connected?
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Being noise still exists on power amps with no connections to rest of system then I can’t really check if exists in headphones and tbh pre doesn’t have headphone out. Speaker cable has been swapped for diff basic stuff as well. They are pretty loud clicks so wouldn’t wanna risk other peoples equipment in case they have tweeter susceptible to switch on thumps in case this noise is wide freq spectrum.
Could be speakers potentially so will try a diff set of speakers tomorrow, don’t have a friends I can take em to so will at least try an extension from upstairs so diff ring/breaker circuit.
Could be speakers potentially so will try a diff set of speakers tomorrow, don’t have a friends I can take em to so will at least try an extension from upstairs so diff ring/breaker circuit.
You mentioned installation of XLR connectors. Has the problem occurred only recently, or is there any correlation with XLR mod?
What if you disconnect preamp, so that only PA and speakers are active?
What if you disconnect preamp, so that only PA and speakers are active?
Already done test with pre disconnected from power amps and power amp input level turned to minimum (so even if pre was connected and at max volume nothing would come out speakers), this would also lift earth from power amps as no earth in power cables.
Happened in my other amp as well (though not quite as loud and using phono and xlr). Being it was a little quieter and we didn’t have dog who has kittens when it clicks I just lived with it but louder now and dog really doesn’t like it (strange cos he doesn’t even bother about fireworks so much be some real high frequency content in the click)
Happened in my other amp as well (though not quite as loud and using phono and xlr). Being it was a little quieter and we didn’t have dog who has kittens when it clicks I just lived with it but louder now and dog really doesn’t like it (strange cos he doesn’t even bother about fireworks so much be some real high frequency content in the click)
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Ordered some phono socket covers with shorting pins so will test with input shorted tomorrow and flick to phono inputs on amp.
For trouble isolation, try to reduce system to the simplest state that exhibits the problem. Having ground system floating should be a good thing, as it reduces opportunities for ground loop noise incursion.
You might experiment with a nearby appliance (a toaster or even better something with an inductive kick), the idea being to initiate a know power glitch to assess susceptibility.
You might experiment with a nearby appliance (a toaster or even better something with an inductive kick), the idea being to initiate a know power glitch to assess susceptibility.
Can you take an amp and a small speaker to a different house to listen for noise there?
Then if noise is still present, that would be a good clue. Also if not, but it wouldn't be definitive.
Then if noise is still present, that would be a good clue. Also if not, but it wouldn't be definitive.
I'd second lugging one to a friends. If it doesn't then you know it is not the amp. Narrows it to power or someone is beaming strong RF at your house.
This might be a clue that's worth pursuing - could this be occasional intermittent squegging? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squegging#Unwanted_squeggingDog hates the noise so guess the click goes into his sensitive hearing frequencies so really need to fix.
doesn’t match squegging description (motor boat sound) as it’s a spaced like you’d expect from something switching sometimes once in a half hour sometimes a couple of hours but reasonably regular by spaced out very like something controlled by a stat.
I can’t really lug to a friends but will at least try an extension from upstairs ring to see if makes a difference. Being I can now confirm I hear noise in a freshly serviced magnum amp and two monoblocks I am pretty damn sure they don’t all have the same fault and the fault occurs in unison with each other in case of mono blocks.
Would experiment with nearby appliance but not sure which is going to give off anything, experimented switching fridges on/off manually and heating. Could try unplugging something nearby that is drawing power so creates sparks, noise, rf and see if I hear it. Then maybe do same but off an extension from upstairs (first away from amp, then closer to amp to see if it appears to be RF or not.
Got the phono input shorting covers coming today so will check it with those shorted as was suggested and try with another speaker, then try the unplugging thing to see if I can create the noise or similar.
I can’t really lug to a friends but will at least try an extension from upstairs ring to see if makes a difference. Being I can now confirm I hear noise in a freshly serviced magnum amp and two monoblocks I am pretty damn sure they don’t all have the same fault and the fault occurs in unison with each other in case of mono blocks.
Would experiment with nearby appliance but not sure which is going to give off anything, experimented switching fridges on/off manually and heating. Could try unplugging something nearby that is drawing power so creates sparks, noise, rf and see if I hear it. Then maybe do same but off an extension from upstairs (first away from amp, then closer to amp to see if it appears to be RF or not.
Got the phono input shorting covers coming today so will check it with those shorted as was suggested and try with another speaker, then try the unplugging thing to see if I can create the noise or similar.
You said your house is semi-detached. So whatever is causing the clicks could be coming from the attached house, or down the phase you are connected to (same phase every three houses).
The only way to eliminate those as a cause is - as has already been said - take your power amp and speakers to a friend's a good distance away.
The only way to eliminate those as a cause is - as has already been said - take your power amp and speakers to a friend's a good distance away.
Long shot, I think you mentioned new furnace. Newer systems use ECM for the blower which can be electrically noisy. And if you replaced the TStat, some TStat designs like honeywell offer a "circulate" option even when the system is off. Circulate will power up the blower at a very low speed about every 20-30 minutes if I remember correctly. My old (and current) system use a Honeywell stat and the old system blower was so quiet at the circulate speed you'd never know it was on. So maybe worth a check. On the honeywell's, there is a Fan option for circulate in the menus.
As I said a number of times I can’t take them to someone else’s house. Least not currently. So concentrating on what I can do. Will try extension from upstairs so diff ring/breaker, try shorting inputs with nothing connected see if a battery am radio picks up same click.
Being I have tried filter blocks, transformer based conditioning mains units and it hasn’t even altered the sound I am at a loss as to what to do next. Like I say this is across 3 power amps so think we can rule out amp fault maybe 99% going to another house will only prove issue is in this house/phase or RF in area but won’t further narrow it down but will do that when I can (likely won’t be till late Jan/feb)
Being I have tried filter blocks, transformer based conditioning mains units and it hasn’t even altered the sound I am at a loss as to what to do next. Like I say this is across 3 power amps so think we can rule out amp fault maybe 99% going to another house will only prove issue is in this house/phase or RF in area but won’t further narrow it down but will do that when I can (likely won’t be till late Jan/feb)
It’s a Worcester Bosch but was replaced a year ago so if it is that then it’s been across two boilers different boilers and continues when powered off completely (will try that again by switching off at wall) still would have thought if electrical noise it would be dealt with by conditioners or at least reduced.Long shot, I think you mentioned new furnace. Newer systems use ECM for the blower which can be electrically noisy. And if you replaced the TStat, some TStat designs like honeywell offer a "circulate" option even when the system is off. Circulate will power up the blower at a very low speed about every 20-30 minutes if I remember correctly. My old (and current) system use a Honeywell stat and the old system blower was so quiet at the circulate speed you'd never know it was on. So maybe worth a check. On the honeywell's, there is a Fan option for circulate in the menus.
Never thought but will try turning off kitchen extractor fan as well.
Ah, boiler, should not be an issue I don't think. ECM fans can throw out a lot of EMI trash. One other question, since the dog is hearing something you are not. Is the pup only reacting at the moment of the click or is he uncomfortable beyond that brief period? Reason I ask is there may be an ultrasonic say 22-30KHz tone or hash being generated and the speakers are producing it. The dog is going to hear it but you are not. I thought I saw somewhere phones can pick up ultrasonics, and I'm guessing you don't have a scope, so maybe a way to see if there is HF being generated in addition to the clicks.
Problem always existed. We only got dog in April from other half’s mum and dad as the two they had didn’t get along. Click existed on old amps but a bit less loud and had system apart for a while and just got it going again when got the new amps. This discovered the click was louder on new amps and dog hated them.
Ah, boiler, should not be an issue I don't think. ECM fans can throw out a lot of EMI trash. One other question, since the dog is hearing something you are not. Is the pup only reacting at the moment of the click or is he uncomfortable beyond that brief period? Reason I ask is there may be an ultrasonic say 22-30KHz tone or hash being generated and the speakers are producing it. The dog is going to hear it but you are not. I thought I saw somewhere phones can pick up ultrasonics, and I'm guessing you don't have a scope, so maybe a way to see if there is HF being generated in addition to the clicks.
I can hear the click very noticeably and it’s only this click dog is reacting to but dog isn’t usually bothered my normal loud noises (even fireworks) so I am only surmising the click as well as audible may include a fair old chunk of very high frequencies as well as. The tweeters on my speakers will play higher than 30khz.
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