Still sounds like squegging. Motorboating is not squegging BTW, its a low frequency instability. Given its very infrequent I wonder if some capacitor is drying out and part of the circuit is on the edge of stability - when it bursts into oscillation the power dissipation pulse happens to fix the issue for a while.
How old is the equipment?
How old is the equipment?
Well, this rules out the amplifiers (since the clicks exist also with grounded input power amplifiers) - does it not?
What remains a constant in this set of variables is speakers and speaker cables - have you tried replacing these (at least temporarily)?
What? On three different power amps? One freshly checked and serviced by designer?
Be hugely surprised.
You have to be qualified to do electric work on house installation, this may not be allowed in any country. If you rent things may be different from self owned housing. In Germany any newer house get's 3-phase AC of 3x 230 Volt which can be combined for 400 Volt use. I don't know your exact local system. Normal household AC is a very simple system, but dangerous. If you work on it, at least wear insulation work boots. They have some marking for the insulation class. This makes a huge difference when things go wrong. Do not stand on concrete or any wet surface. Do not touch any metal parts or pipes while working. Expect experts doing thing wrong, but do NOT correct by your self if you think you found a fault. In most cases you did not understand it right.
As you have this problem with 3 amps, I assume the problem is on the AC power line.
I had such problems in different houses. In one flat my BRAUN electric razor produced a loud "bang" in my amps, 10 meters away. By accident I found out the daisy chained wall outlets had some semiconductor type of initial high resistance, as they where of the screw type. Copper floats over the years, oxidizes and the pressure from the screws is lost. Just opening up all outlets and tightening ever single screw solved the problem. Newer installations should have spring loaded contacts. Anyway, it still may be a screw type connector inside some diverter box. Allways consider electricians "renewing the installation" to be lazy and only do half of the work, mainly in places that are hidden, uncomfortable to work on or high up.
In my current location, I had the TV and AVR cutting out for a second when the fridge went on, the oven started or even the light switch was activated. I now have a single cable from a single fuse feeding the AV installation directly from the fuse box. This is the best you can do for any high quality audio system. If problems remain, try changing the phase. Any fuse is a resistor and reduces spikes on the line.
My actual advice for you: Get a good extension cable and plug it in as close to the fuse box as possible. Fuse boxes can even have a build in outlet, at least there should be one very near to it with a short, uninterupted connection. Power only your amp(s) from it. If the problem doesn't change, it may not be your house installation, but come from the outside. To be sure, shut off all fuses except for the extention line. The amp still torturing your dog? It must be from the outside! Change your hobby, quit listening to music and walk the dog instead.
There are many reports of new "dirt problems" on the line, since there are private photo voltatic installations and DC/AC converter returning power to the grid. There are even battery type power storage systems for bridging dark periods. All these new things are produced as cheap as possible and often do not meet the promised specifications, as they all come from China. We just had a huge call back on such a solar system in Germany.
Also, the combination of wind energy, nuclear and fossil energy doesn't go perfectly smooth on the large scale. If wind is low and the sun doesn't shine the alternative, old sources have to be ramped up. This can produce local problems, your energy supplier will willfully conceal and never admit.
As you have this problem with 3 amps, I assume the problem is on the AC power line.
I had such problems in different houses. In one flat my BRAUN electric razor produced a loud "bang" in my amps, 10 meters away. By accident I found out the daisy chained wall outlets had some semiconductor type of initial high resistance, as they where of the screw type. Copper floats over the years, oxidizes and the pressure from the screws is lost. Just opening up all outlets and tightening ever single screw solved the problem. Newer installations should have spring loaded contacts. Anyway, it still may be a screw type connector inside some diverter box. Allways consider electricians "renewing the installation" to be lazy and only do half of the work, mainly in places that are hidden, uncomfortable to work on or high up.
In my current location, I had the TV and AVR cutting out for a second when the fridge went on, the oven started or even the light switch was activated. I now have a single cable from a single fuse feeding the AV installation directly from the fuse box. This is the best you can do for any high quality audio system. If problems remain, try changing the phase. Any fuse is a resistor and reduces spikes on the line.
My actual advice for you: Get a good extension cable and plug it in as close to the fuse box as possible. Fuse boxes can even have a build in outlet, at least there should be one very near to it with a short, uninterupted connection. Power only your amp(s) from it. If the problem doesn't change, it may not be your house installation, but come from the outside. To be sure, shut off all fuses except for the extention line. The amp still torturing your dog? It must be from the outside! Change your hobby, quit listening to music and walk the dog instead.
There are many reports of new "dirt problems" on the line, since there are private photo voltatic installations and DC/AC converter returning power to the grid. There are even battery type power storage systems for bridging dark periods. All these new things are produced as cheap as possible and often do not meet the promised specifications, as they all come from China. We just had a huge call back on such a solar system in Germany.
Also, the combination of wind energy, nuclear and fossil energy doesn't go perfectly smooth on the large scale. If wind is low and the sun doesn't shine the alternative, old sources have to be ramped up. This can produce local problems, your energy supplier will willfully conceal and never admit.
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If it comes from the mains line then it should show up as a peak or drop (or some other sort of disturbance) on the amplifier internal power rails. A digital oscilloscope set to a longer time frame (or with a trigger set to run once) would probably clear things up.
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Another option would be to use a mains voltage logger with transient logging capability.
Problem is that these are usually quite highly priced so for one time analysis it would be best to rent them.
A more diy-flavoured solution would be e.g. a Mooshimeter sold also at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011W4L7JA?ref=myi_title_dp
Problem is that these are usually quite highly priced so for one time analysis it would be best to rent them.
A more diy-flavoured solution would be e.g. a Mooshimeter sold also at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011W4L7JA?ref=myi_title_dp
Thanks @madis64 I have a double socket in hall I installed specifically for the wee chest freezer so it’s on it’s own breaker and nothing else is on that circuit, will unplug the freezer too and use that for a trial. It’s only the click that tortures dog so I can hear if it’s gone or not. And yes also planned to turn off all other breakers then turn em back all back on and if click returns do em one by one.
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Still surprised any spikes or transients get through the transformer based conditioning unit. These were specifically used for say in house telephone exchanges and other sensative equipment in professional environments. Seen one lad where their exchange kept crashing and they identified a 1000v spike and one of these units totally solved the issue.
However, we still have noise so gonna check the sockets and make sure all tight etc. as you say something loose could be causing a spark when a change in draw is happening or something. Which will also give of RF crap too
However, we still have noise so gonna check the sockets and make sure all tight etc. as you say something loose could be causing a spark when a change in draw is happening or something. Which will also give of RF crap too
Have you tried any MOV type surge suppressors? There are the little crappy ones in the form of a power bar or better ones for audio grade power conditioners and computer UPS. There are also whole house "brick" types that can be installed on your fuse panel to protect from external voltage spikes.
Another thing to look at is a WIFI router. They usually cause more like a very slow motorboating sound but can make other noises as well. I have a couple of them wreaking havoc on my test equipment now.
Another thing to look at is a WIFI router. They usually cause more like a very slow motorboating sound but can make other noises as well. I have a couple of them wreaking havoc on my test equipment now.
most EMC like disturbances do not make it through the filtering of the power trasnformer. INstead any caps in the system to ground create currents through the ground path, ending up a signals into the system. The most vulnerable part of the system are the long spaker wires acting as antenna, any disturbance outside the damping factor frequency range end up in the too slow feedback loopmm overloading the input, a transient distortion heard as click. Hard to combat sometimes running the speakser wire a few turns through a large ferrite toroid does help. If you have a practical radio amateur guy nearby he can help
My wifi rooter is at only 20 cm from audio sistem and I do not have any noise generated by it.
I think that the only solution to the noise is to have it investigated by someone with experience directly on the spot.