Hi Mark,
We are just sharing some humour, not at your expense.
I like blue, really. No kidding. Blue LED's have slightly higher noise when used as a reference diode over red. Irrelevant to you.
Alps pots are good. You will know quickly if you have ordered the wrong one when you go to use the preamp.
I have never heard the bottlehead design. So I will not comment. If you don't like it, change it into something else. No biggie.
-Chris
We are just sharing some humour, not at your expense.
I like blue, really. No kidding. Blue LED's have slightly higher noise when used as a reference diode over red. Irrelevant to you.
Alps pots are good. You will know quickly if you have ordered the wrong one when you go to use the preamp.
I have never heard the bottlehead design. So I will not comment. If you don't like it, change it into something else. No biggie.
-Chris
commited, the Foreplay is good sounding for a first time build. you can put lots of mods in it later, should you get bored with its sound 😀
the power supply is even simpler- 125V - 4 x FR106 (bridge) - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V
raise the the filament of the second tube (the cathode follower tube) via a voltage divider of 150K - 68K/100uF going to pin 9. i used a 12.3V filament.
dead quiet.
I might violate a forum rule here by posting that config above and there are two mods in this thread
i can email you the complete schematics if you like
the power supply is even simpler- 125V - 4 x FR106 (bridge) - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V
raise the the filament of the second tube (the cathode follower tube) via a voltage divider of 150K - 68K/100uF going to pin 9. i used a 12.3V filament.
dead quiet.
I might violate a forum rule here by posting that config above and there are two mods in this thread

i can email you the complete schematics if you like

Hi Chris,anatech said:Hi Mark,
We are just sharing some humour, not at your expense.
I like blue, really. No kidding. Blue LED's have slightly higher noise when used as a reference diode over red. Irrelevant to you.
Alps pots are good. You will know quickly if you have ordered the wrong one when you go to use the preamp.
I have never heard the bottlehead design. So I will not comment. If you don't like it, change it into something else. No biggie.
-Chris
I understood the joke, dont worry - I'm just worried that I wont get a more complicated joke and end up doing something wrong!
I assume I'll be able to tell with a multimeter whether it's a linear or a log pot!
I suppose it's no biggie, but I'd like to start off with a design that was well regarded by peoples experiences!
Mark
arnoldc said:commited, the Foreplay is good sounding for a first time build. you can put lots of mods in it later, should you get bored with its sound 😀
the power supply is even simpler- 125V - 4 x FR106 (bridge) - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V - 1K 1W - 220uF/250V
raise the the filament of the second tube (the cathode follower tube) via a voltage divider of 150K - 68K/100uF going to pin 9. i used a 12.3V filament.
dead quiet.
I might violate a forum rule here by posting that config above and there are two mods in this thread![]()
i can email you the complete schematics if you like![]()
Great!
I'm all for simple power supplies - we've covered them in university and they sort of went over my head!
I really thought that building valve stuff was far harder than this! This is amazing! This is a great community!
I have sent you an email!
Mark
Hi Mark, I sent it out. It may take a while- 12MB- not just schematics. You're in for a cool surprise 😉
Re: Kynar, I think it is, but since I haven't done any PVDF extrusion, I don't know the process temps off the top of my head.
Just wondering if wire wrap wire was silver plated for the same reason... but that is a "crimp" situation as well.
The data sheets from Arkema suggest that the process temps are much lower for Kynar than for Teflon.
Hmmm... curiouser and curiouser... yours is the best explanation re silver plated I 've ever heard though. I used to have a MIL manual around for wire wrapping spec's... haven't used that in a while.
😀
😀
There is a non-extrusion-related reason for silver-plating wire-wrap (I may have set a record for the ratio of hyphens to words in a single sentence). I don't know what it is, but I had no problem finding NASA specs for Kynar-insulated copper wire without silver plating. So unlike Teflon over bare copper, there's no barrier to manufacture.
Well,
Not there is tangible ANY reason I need to know... other than that now, it is bugging me, that wire wrap manual was a loooong time ago, I think the cabernet may have killed that brain cell -
Not there is tangible ANY reason I need to know... other than that now, it is bugging me, that wire wrap manual was a loooong time ago, I think the cabernet may have killed that brain cell -

You are aparently not familiar with the Python programming language. Extremely long hyphenated salutations have become the norm: here's a link to what is considered the first occurance (scroll down to the 6th and 7th quotes) http://www.amk.ca/quotations/python-quotes/ but the newsgroup is full of them.SY said:There is a non-extrusion-related reason for silver-plating wire-wrap (I may have set a record for the ratio of hyphens to words in a single sentence).
Yeah, but my sentence was grammatical and punctuated properly. Guinness, please note.
It's-easy-to-cheat-and-do-something-non-standard.
OK, back to the topic. Every once in a while, anatech and I disagree. Not often, but on occasion. This is one of those times. I would go out of my way to source Teflon-insulated wire. I'm unconvinced of sonic benefits (see, Chris and I agree again!), but the temperature performance of Teflon is astonishingly better. No melties from careless soldering irons' accidental touches or overly long heating to try to solder to a big lug. No insulation pull-back. Superb solderability with silver-bearing solder. And almost always available at surplus.
Downside is that you can't use fingernails or teeth for stripping. You need either a sharp blade or real wire strippers.
It's-easy-to-cheat-and-do-something-non-standard.
OK, back to the topic. Every once in a while, anatech and I disagree. Not often, but on occasion. This is one of those times. I would go out of my way to source Teflon-insulated wire. I'm unconvinced of sonic benefits (see, Chris and I agree again!), but the temperature performance of Teflon is astonishingly better. No melties from careless soldering irons' accidental touches or overly long heating to try to solder to a big lug. No insulation pull-back. Superb solderability with silver-bearing solder. And almost always available at surplus.
Downside is that you can't use fingernails or teeth for stripping. You need either a sharp blade or real wire strippers.
SY said:Downside is that you can't use fingernails or teeth for stripping.
You should be expelled from the forum even for suggesting such a thing!
anatech said:
Alps pots are good. You will know quickly if you have ordered the wrong one when you go to use the preamp.
-Chris
In fact, I've just ordered an Alps Blue Rk27 100K dual log for my preamp 😉
22 euro!!!!!!!











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