Hi Triplej, I think what homemodder is saying that we always stock the real part when it comes to our favorite semi conductors.
I buy by a box or tray or tape, 100 or 300 or 1000 at a time. You obviously don't test every one, but you do test at least one of the batch. This is simply referred to as incoming goods quality inspection, if it is not right you reject the lot and give it back to the supplier.
Most DIYer buy only a few parts for a particular project and this is partly the reason that they are done in because they buy from any buying house. When you get to know your supplier's quality standards you will go back to the same supplier and you start getting consistent quality supply.
There are many well known and some even respected buying houses that will buy up bulk reject stock for resale at next to nothing to make a quick buck, so you always need to be careful.
I buy by a box or tray or tape, 100 or 300 or 1000 at a time. You obviously don't test every one, but you do test at least one of the batch. This is simply referred to as incoming goods quality inspection, if it is not right you reject the lot and give it back to the supplier.
Most DIYer buy only a few parts for a particular project and this is partly the reason that they are done in because they buy from any buying house. When you get to know your supplier's quality standards you will go back to the same supplier and you start getting consistent quality supply.
There are many well known and some even respected buying houses that will buy up bulk reject stock for resale at next to nothing to make a quick buck, so you always need to be careful.
Only when in doubt and the parts dont look like a batch that I saw previously, conform to datasheet physical marks or batch mumbers or the design doesnt perform as expected. I dont need to go that far much nowadays as visual inspection is usually enough but it took some years of experience to be able to discern.
Some time ago i bought some MN3005 BBD chips from utsource. They worked pretty well and I'm pretty sure they aren't fake. From ebay I got really bad experiences. They always refunded my money, though.
Thanks Nico
My comment re the SOA testing was a bit tongue in cheek.
I was simply trying to point out two things to Diy Didi
1) Not all components sourced from HK are fakes as some on this forum would have you believe. My experience has been positive overall.
2) Renasis / On Semi / NXP etc are not fakes, they are legitimate products. They may not have as stringent QA as the OEM but they are fit for purpose.
My MPSA’s are MPSA’s and my 2SJ’s are 2SJ’s. My amps do not explode.
J
My comment re the SOA testing was a bit tongue in cheek.
I was simply trying to point out two things to Diy Didi
1) Not all components sourced from HK are fakes as some on this forum would have you believe. My experience has been positive overall.
2) Renasis / On Semi / NXP etc are not fakes, they are legitimate products. They may not have as stringent QA as the OEM but they are fit for purpose.
My MPSA’s are MPSA’s and my 2SJ’s are 2SJ’s. My amps do not explode.
J
Last edited:
In point (2), are you simply saying that since these guys may be legitimate second sources it should be OK to use their products with the same performance expectation for the OEM part?
I think there is enough evidence on this forum that such a degree of parts interchangeability doesn't often apply even to legitimate semi knock-offs. However, the issue here is really about counterfeit parts. i.e those that not only prove to be something other the original part but are marked and marketed fraudulently.
Surely, if you find high cost parts at bargain prices, whether via Ebay or any marketing house, you run a high risk that yours will be fake parts and many customers will be helpless, not even understanding what verification tests should be used to justify a refund and the hassle. If you want to repair someone's gear or build with any confidence that your project is going to perform like the simulation, textbook or someone else's prototype, you must at least be very certain of your component quality. That is just common sense.
It seems there are always individuals attracted principally to lowest prices, whatever the risk. If we saw these parts sold cheaply next to genuine parts in a retail outlet, we probably would steer clear of them but the nice pics and words on Ebay seem to inspire confidence, don't they?
Well, for my money, there are better options and much lower risks, even at twice the price. Guys, don't be so easily sucked-in. 😉
BTW Renasis, On Semi, and NXP are only second source to a very small number of parts, mostly their products are the OEM. When they manufacture second source parts they buy licencing if the original OEM still has the part in production. These companies comply to stringent quality control even with the second source parts and therefore these parts in nearly all cases are as good as the OEM. In these cases the parts are marked as being their own (not the OEM s), which is a first clue about quality while the Hong Kong and China parts mark the parts like the originals as they have to fool the public to purchase them as 99.99 % dont conform the specifications.
I think you missing the point a little and Ian s post clarifies the topic.
Yes maybe too much focus on the post OEM manufacturers but I have seen Renasis 2SJ / 2SK referred to as fake.
I also wanted to correct statements like this elsewhere on this forum:
“I would not buy any critical components from China, transistors, capacitors, resistors, chips, etc. Especially on eBay. Guaranteed to be 99.9% fake.”
That’s simply ridiculous.
DIY Didi: I’d be interested if you proceed, what your experience is.
I also wanted to correct statements like this elsewhere on this forum:
“I would not buy any critical components from China, transistors, capacitors, resistors, chips, etc. Especially on eBay. Guaranteed to be 99.9% fake.”
That’s simply ridiculous.
DIY Didi: I’d be interested if you proceed, what your experience is.
They do fake them though, by remarking. Its simple take IRFp240 (cheap) remark as 2SJ200
(more than double the price and make easy money.
Care to post pics of all the transistors you bought off of ebay, Ill point you the fakes or inferior second source parts if any ??
(more than double the price and make easy money.
Care to post pics of all the transistors you bought off of ebay, Ill point you the fakes or inferior second source parts if any ??
I have bought about 50 SSM2044 from utsource which are quite a common fake item. One was dead, the others were all fine.
I Bought
TYN825
BTA26-800CW
BYW96E
From them the TYN825's does not work at all, the BTA26's does not measure the same as known originals and gets very hot in circuit..
The BYW96E does work so far but the lettering gets smudged by the slightest touch.
They did refund the BTA26's but i have not bothered contacting them about the other parts.
TYN825
BTA26-800CW
BYW96E
From them the TYN825's does not work at all, the BTA26's does not measure the same as known originals and gets very hot in circuit..
The BYW96E does work so far but the lettering gets smudged by the slightest touch.
They did refund the BTA26's but i have not bothered contacting them about the other parts.
I hope its OK to bump an aging thread, but I couldn't help but share and answer the original poster's question. I did buy an IGBT from Utsource. Fuji 1MBH60-100. I'm not an expert, but this does appear fake or a poor production.
The appearance of the transistor is a little rough, like it had been sanded down on a belt sander...
I tried some basic electrical testing of the transistor I received. Vces breakdown was 770 volts, it should be 1000v. I measured 30nC total gate charge, the datasheet indicates 190nC. I would guess that lower gate charge might mean smaller die size.
The appearance of the transistor is a little rough, like it had been sanded down on a belt sander...
I tried some basic electrical testing of the transistor I received. Vces breakdown was 770 volts, it should be 1000v. I measured 30nC total gate charge, the datasheet indicates 190nC. I would guess that lower gate charge might mean smaller die size.
Not to resurrect an old thread, but I think I've just been bit by the counterfeit snake again..
Ordered some IR2153's. All fake. Doesn't even look like IR chips according to the markings shown on their data sheet. I powered they power pins with 12V and they heat up quite fast, WTH?
OH well, let see how they reply. Watch this space.
Ordered some IR2153's. All fake. Doesn't even look like IR chips according to the markings shown on their data sheet. I powered they power pins with 12V and they heat up quite fast, WTH?
OH well, let see how they reply. Watch this space.
Well that Sucks! And it's not the first time either ?
However just to rub Salt in the wound 🙂
Buy Cheap.. Buy twice, or if dim; repeatedly.
However just to rub Salt in the wound 🙂
Buy Cheap.. Buy twice, or if dim; repeatedly.
UTSource is somewhat fraudulent in that it claims to be based in the USA, but when I ordered a 7815 that was "In stock", it took 6 weeks to get here from China. I had to pull a used one to repair an amp.
A tracking number was furnished immediately upon my order, but when it posted three weeks later, it just sat in China for a few more weeks.
I was told to wait, because of the snowstorms in the USA would slow delivery. But it was supposedly shipped 3 weeks before the storms began.
The 7815 is old in that the lead plating is oxidized, but the printing looks genuine Fairchild.
Two years straight never any problems with Mouser, Digikey, and Newark.
As far as eBay, avoid sellers with a feedback rating below 99%, those who don't answer emails, or cannot provide schematics and parts lists. It is also better to choose those who use ePacket. Otherwise, it takes longer and there's no proof you ever received the item due to lack of tracking number. If you wait too long after the latest estimated receive date and have not received it, there will be no recourse to remedy the loss with eBay if the item never arrives.
Why the 99% barrier? Because in my experience, if under 99%, 85% percent of buyers are dissatisfied, but are "silenced" by refunds. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, however.
A tracking number was furnished immediately upon my order, but when it posted three weeks later, it just sat in China for a few more weeks.
I was told to wait, because of the snowstorms in the USA would slow delivery. But it was supposedly shipped 3 weeks before the storms began.
The 7815 is old in that the lead plating is oxidized, but the printing looks genuine Fairchild.
Two years straight never any problems with Mouser, Digikey, and Newark.
As far as eBay, avoid sellers with a feedback rating below 99%, those who don't answer emails, or cannot provide schematics and parts lists. It is also better to choose those who use ePacket. Otherwise, it takes longer and there's no proof you ever received the item due to lack of tracking number. If you wait too long after the latest estimated receive date and have not received it, there will be no recourse to remedy the loss with eBay if the item never arrives.
Why the 99% barrier? Because in my experience, if under 99%, 85% percent of buyers are dissatisfied, but are "silenced" by refunds. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, however.
Ok This has changed recently. Ordered some TDA7293. All 10 of them were fake😡
I'm not saying all HK sourced part are fake. I'm just saying companies like UT should take responsibility when selling fake parts. I only got half *** replies with promises that never realised.
I do not use Utsource any more I think I have gotten more fake parts then real when ordering from them so my recomendation is to stay away!
That's why I use the big supply houses. I do not have a real oscilloscope, nor the patience to test each part.
Quite frankly, if you are doing audio, especially high-end, it does not pay to try and save a few shillings, and you should be testing each and every part for noise and performance in any case, IMO.
Quite frankly, if you are doing audio, especially high-end, it does not pay to try and save a few shillings, and you should be testing each and every part for noise and performance in any case, IMO.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.