Using Series capacitor for Bass on Full Range Driver

Ok.
So max output gain is larger than efficiency gain
I actually was planning to use 9-12 drivers in series-parallel (box is 12 Liters and I was saying n8 drivers to simplify the model). All drivers are within a Quarter wavelength of one another in the frequency range used (& no power tapering will be employed). There is a 4th order active crossover to a treble unit below comb filtering point.
Also, shouldn't the high pass effect of series cap below fb help protect the drivers as well?
Thanks again
 
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Quote:
"The varioventish + series uF enclosure..."

In what form is this enclosure made? I've been doing searches about variovents and I see a flow-resistance "stuffed port" of some sort is often used presumably to reduce 'Q' at fc.
For "3rd Order Sealed", I've only seen completely closed boxes with Qtc of 1.0-1.1 used with cap
Thanks and Happy New Year
 
The Variovent-ish + uF enclosure, was made with a small 1 cm diameter hole in the enclosure, stuffed with damping material. I tried to have my cake and eat it. I wanted a smaller enclosure and flat impedance for use with a tube amplifier. The Qts of the Peerless 3 inch is 0.89, closed box would have been 4.7 liter... Computer said yes, so i tried it, and it worked very well.

I can not speak for others, but i use the closed box + capacitor trick mainly to get smaller enclosures, with high Qts drivers and low tuning, enclosures can get very big. Also more subjective, i don't like the Q 0.5 closed box sound, the cap gives a wee bit more subjective pressure. Somewhere between very dry closed box and the woomp of bass reflex.

This is the TB in 1.08 liter, with and without capacitor, excursion is higher with the series cap:
Screen Shot 12-31-21 at 01.31 PM.PNG
 
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sorry gents just trying to wrap my head around this, is this not a high pass at a low frequency and all that is being done is that the knee of the filter is falling on the resonant point to extend the response?
or am i missing something?
 
An in-line cap is a highpass filter, ish. Output is reduced below ~0.7x Fc (resonance of driver in cabinet).
However, just below Fc, you get a boost from the interaction between the cap and the rising impedance. The impedance presented to the amplifier is lower, so more current is drawn.

In a way, it's another form of EQ. Quite useful, though, in the right circumstances.

Chris
 
So do you think either configuration would be ok for my multi driver array above 12" Subs that operate up to 160Hz, 12db/ octave?
In my experience it is not a big problem to crossover that high, however, there are studies showing that stereo information goes down to 60Hz, so it is a compromise. If you have two subs, and put them as close as possible to the line-arrays it probably will work fine.
 
In my experience it is not a big problem to crossover that high, however, there are studies showing that stereo information goes down to 60Hz, so it is a compromise. If you have two subs, and put them as close as possible to the line-arrays it probably will work fine.
I'm more concerned with the array of 3" drivers and how they'll be working low enough to mate with the subs. And is the series cap enough, or should there be an additional high-pass crossover (and what frequency?) for them.
The two subs, each have 300 Watt amps and DSP up to the crossover point, which is adjustable. They will be next to the towers.
Thanks.
 
Right. I'm actually nearly done with these speakers (the towers are already built). But-
I was hoping to get assistance and opinions to determine how to cross the small drivers over to mate property with my subs. (i.e. to help me avoid building it wrong).I'm anxious but prudent.

Do I just use the LF rolloff of my drivers and series cap, or should I use additional high-pass elements to mate better with the 2d order LP subwoofer?
Thanks for any input
 
2nd order harmonic distortion does increase below 200hz(doubling), but it's the 3rd harmonic that increases below 150, peaking at 125.that I'm most concerned about. The large series cap is supposed to reduce output below fc- wouldn't that help? (TBH, I don't actually know where I need to set the crossover point, at fc, F3, or higher up in frequency, w/sub @ / below 160hz)
 

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Is the THD graph from this Tang Band? I am used to seeing THD shooting up below 100 Hz, for 7 inch drivers, let alone a 3 inch. I do think, the precise crossover point should be selected by ear. Or at least it would be impossible for me to give an precise answer in Hz / oct. And would be very suspicious if some would chip in and gave you a precise advice.
 
Is the THD graph from this Tang Band? I am used to seeing THD shooting up below 100 Hz, for 7 inch drivers, let alone a 3 inch. I do think, the precise crossover point should be selected by ear. Or at least it would be impossible for me to give an precise answer in Hz / oct. And would be very suspicious if some would chip in and gave you a precise advice.
I see. Just want to understand how to get these drivers down to 150-160hz to mate with the subwoofer below, much as I was doing with my other satellites (single 5" sealed and also a 4" ported model). Or if I were to leave it 2nd order would there be enough overlap?

The graph I posted is the only one I could find online and is from a similar Tang band 3" full range:

Tang Band W3-1364S​

which looks a lot like the one I'm using (same cone, surround and phase plug). Specs are not too different as well. Do you think the distortion characteristics would be very different between similar models? Unfortunately, I don't have the gear to measure this myself, and I guess I'm grasping at straws.