I would like to use the 8531K00 in small a PartsExpress 0.28 cu ft cabinet using a port.
Is the cabinet too small? I like to keep the cabinet small if possible.
I have a pair of Usher 9950-20 tweeters. Would this work well enough with the woofer?
I have the mentioned parts and ready to go.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Is the cabinet too small? I like to keep the cabinet small if possible.
I have a pair of Usher 9950-20 tweeters. Would this work well enough with the woofer?
I have the mentioned parts and ready to go.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
You'll get a bit more bass if you can go to 0.375 cu ft. Seems a shame not to get the most from these little woofers.
jeff
Make it an extra space beyond the 8.6L = 0.30ft³ because this driver needs an extra long port or you will end with a to tight small speaker.
Download one of the free speaker box modeling programs. With that tool you will be able to see the response of your very highly regarded driver in a variety of box sizes. They pick one that will suit your size needs and maximize bass extension.
Jack,
With 2" in diameter, the length of the port would be around 12"
and you would probably need to find a solution ( elbow) to fit one.
This was simulated using Woofer Box and Circuit designer.
Jeff Bagby's Software Page
With the right XO filter it would sound very good.
With 2" in diameter, the length of the port would be around 12"
and you would probably need to find a solution ( elbow) to fit one.
This was simulated using Woofer Box and Circuit designer.
Jeff Bagby's Software Page
With the right XO filter it would sound very good.
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Hi,
Can't find the 8531K00 and suspect with real world driver
parameters your only sensible option is sealed that small.
rgds, sreten.
Can't find the 8531K00 and suspect with real world driver
parameters your only sensible option is sealed that small.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
It seems I need a bigger box, say a PartsExpress 0.38 cu ft(10.7L)box.
Hopefully with a bigger cabinet the port length is more reasonable. I guess a smaller 1.375 inch port is too small.
I am going to do some simulations. Thanks again.
It seems I need a bigger box, say a PartsExpress 0.38 cu ft(10.7L)box.
Hopefully with a bigger cabinet the port length is more reasonable. I guess a smaller 1.375 inch port is too small.
I am going to do some simulations. Thanks again.
According to Zaph, I quote:
"For vented boxes, most woofers 6.5" and under use a Parts Express 1.5" flared port.
My own experience finds people making their ports *way* larger in diameter than they
need to be, which relates to longer ports."
End of quote.
So he sais under Enclosures topic:
Zaph|Audio
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There is another way : passive radiator.
My vol. = 13.5 liters and an old Philips passive. I tuned , by imp. curve, the passive by adding weight.
Weight = self adhesive bitumen pads.
The idea was based on the "old" Sonus Faber extrema.
I use a kind of sine-cap x-over as wel.
My vol. = 13.5 liters and an old Philips passive. I tuned , by imp. curve, the passive by adding weight.
Weight = self adhesive bitumen pads.
The idea was based on the "old" Sonus Faber extrema.
I use a kind of sine-cap x-over as wel.
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To make that a good rule of thumb I'd love to see the drivers in the group and the ones that are exceptions. I don't really believe it, it doesn't mean that design e.g. flanges/position/tuning of ports has some influence in the final speaker for most of them. 🙂
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What did you use for a tweeter?
How do you like your sine-cap crossover? and how did you deal with cooling the tweeter's series resistor?
My Intimates are in a 15L box and vented at the rear. I use the vent to cool the resistor as shown below....
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@speakerdocter :
I already saw your tweeter solution on the net ! Very clever !!
I do speaker builds with highschool kids. I made 2 versions of the same speaker ; 1e with 12/12 dB x-over and 2e with sine-cap variation . All the kids choose sine cap ; "sound smore natural ; easier on the ears etc.
Is this an answer 2 your asking?
BTW I like it alot myself!! I do not play that loud ; so heat isnt an issue for me.
However I did my first experiments with the resistor outside and checked the temp.
The tweeter is an old Dynaudio D21af but I recently upgraded 2 an AudioVirus 28mm.
The demo speakers are not scan ; but a 16 ohm alu and a tonsil tweet. One speaker is a PMC form clone and the other one is a Totem Statt clone.
I already saw your tweeter solution on the net ! Very clever !!
I do speaker builds with highschool kids. I made 2 versions of the same speaker ; 1e with 12/12 dB x-over and 2e with sine-cap variation . All the kids choose sine cap ; "sound smore natural ; easier on the ears etc.
Is this an answer 2 your asking?
BTW I like it alot myself!! I do not play that loud ; so heat isnt an issue for me.
However I did my first experiments with the resistor outside and checked the temp.
The tweeter is an old Dynaudio D21af but I recently upgraded 2 an AudioVirus 28mm.
The demo speakers are not scan ; but a 16 ohm alu and a tonsil tweet. One speaker is a PMC form clone and the other one is a Totem Statt clone.
Nice projects Leon. I admire your energy to teach speaker building to H.S. students.
Notice my Intimates are in Parts Express cabinets. I tired of building boxes long ago.
Notice my Intimates are in Parts Express cabinets. I tired of building boxes long ago.
@JackM11 ; I would recommend the Intimates from speakerdocter ; would be a shame 2 putt the 15w in a too small cabinet!!
Take 3 resistors ; 12 15 & 18 ohm (15/20 watts) and a connection through the br pipe. Adjust 2 your own taste. Build permanent inside later.
In speakerdocters intimates there is a large BSC ; so if you are using them closer 2 a wall / corner then reduce the L from 3mH to 2,4 (or even more)
Looked at the usher tweet ; seems to be a drop-in replacement ; but maybe speakerdocter has an opinion ??
I finally settled at 2,7mH , 15 ohm & 0,27 (low R !!)
@ speaker docter ; Yeah , I know what you mean ; but for the kids it is nice to be in some sawdust , burn your fingers at the soldering iron etc. etc. So with 62 I'm using my hands again !!
Take 3 resistors ; 12 15 & 18 ohm (15/20 watts) and a connection through the br pipe. Adjust 2 your own taste. Build permanent inside later.
In speakerdocters intimates there is a large BSC ; so if you are using them closer 2 a wall / corner then reduce the L from 3mH to 2,4 (or even more)
Looked at the usher tweet ; seems to be a drop-in replacement ; but maybe speakerdocter has an opinion ??
I finally settled at 2,7mH , 15 ohm & 0,27 (low R !!)
@ speaker docter ; Yeah , I know what you mean ; but for the kids it is nice to be in some sawdust , burn your fingers at the soldering iron etc. etc. So with 62 I'm using my hands again !!
Leon, I ended up using a 10 ohm tweeter series resistor. The 15 ohm resistor sounded a bit soft after some months of listening and I wanted to brighten things up a bit.
I'm in the process of trying out a pair of Vifa XT25TG30-04 ring radiator tweeters. Already simmed a few xover designs including the AR-XSO series type and a more conventional, parallel 4th order LR. The Vifa tweeters are a drop in fit in place of the SS D2905's.
I'm in the process of trying out a pair of Vifa XT25TG30-04 ring radiator tweeters. Already simmed a few xover designs including the AR-XSO series type and a more conventional, parallel 4th order LR. The Vifa tweeters are a drop in fit in place of the SS D2905's.
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8531k00.pdf
(more of the same, following my previous post against that stupid ingenious statement) NPI 🙂
In this case a 2" port would be required (and very long port, of course it depends of adjusting the chosen tuning) for 40/45W, driver is 60W rms.
Working with a 1.5" works both ways saving in the length (and volume, that is about ~1L for the port) and increasing air speed/noise.
@ Inductor :
If you use a port , then place it on the back.
I used , aswel Troels as Zaph measurements , and did my own TSP measure.
A took a look in my archive and saw an alignment ; 13,5 liters , port dia 3,8 cm (~~ 1,5 inch) and length 15,7 cm (~~ 6 inch).
For me this was too long; a lot of TL action in the midrange. That why I choose a passieve radiator.
@ Speakerdocter ;
Are we hacking this thread ? Hope not ; like the communication !
Troels did a version with the vifa XT ; try to post a pic ; maybe you can use it as a starting point.
I do have a set of XT's , they are in the box at the moment. I have not tried it yet but I think that the visa ton KE25sc just could be the perfect match for the scan 15w. I agree with you that the scan 15w needs a little sparkle ; so perhaps the monacor titanium dome is also an option.
Tried the vita's in another setup ; not my piece of cake ; but wil make the design cheaper in contrary to the visa ton KE which is expensive but delicious!!
If you use a port , then place it on the back.
I used , aswel Troels as Zaph measurements , and did my own TSP measure.
A took a look in my archive and saw an alignment ; 13,5 liters , port dia 3,8 cm (~~ 1,5 inch) and length 15,7 cm (~~ 6 inch).
For me this was too long; a lot of TL action in the midrange. That why I choose a passieve radiator.
@ Speakerdocter ;
Are we hacking this thread ? Hope not ; like the communication !
Troels did a version with the vifa XT ; try to post a pic ; maybe you can use it as a starting point.
I do have a set of XT's , they are in the box at the moment. I have not tried it yet but I think that the visa ton KE25sc just could be the perfect match for the scan 15w. I agree with you that the scan 15w needs a little sparkle ; so perhaps the monacor titanium dome is also an option.
Tried the vita's in another setup ; not my piece of cake ; but wil make the design cheaper in contrary to the visa ton KE which is expensive but delicious!!
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I can't save or print those images post #19. What speaker project title did Troels use for those drivers?
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