Ok, this is a call out to all of you ushio 400 watt MH replacement users out there....I need some help with wiring my setup. In my somewhat limited knowledge of circuitry I would like to avoid electricuting myself or setting fire to my home 
. Any wiring diagrams would be helpful. I know which wires to use coming from my ballast and associated components, but I don't know what if anything I need to ground out and or how I should go about doing that. As far as plugging it in and turning it on, I plan on using a 3-prong cord (an extra from one of my old computers) and a male receptical (taken from an old power supply). I also have a 20A, 125V AC switch to throw in the mix. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Michael
. Any wiring diagrams would be helpful. I know which wires to use coming from my ballast and associated components, but I don't know what if anything I need to ground out and or how I should go about doing that. As far as plugging it in and turning it on, I plan on using a 3-prong cord (an extra from one of my old computers) and a male receptical (taken from an old power supply). I also have a 20A, 125V AC switch to throw in the mix. Any and all help will be much appreciated.Many thanks,
Michael
wiring a Ushio retrofit lamp
Did you get an S51 magnetic core HPS ballast kit? It should have a wiring diagram for hooking it to a 400 Watt High Pressure Sodium lamp. The Ushio 400 Watt Retrofit lamp goes right in place of the HPS lamp. It needs the capacitor and ignitor that come with the ballast.
If you did not get a wiring diagram with your ballast kit, then you need to look for it on the manufacturer's website, or ask the place that sold it to you.
The only thing that might not be on the diagram is the ground wire: That should get connected to the metal chassis that surrounds the powered parts. If you don't have such a protective chassis, then you can just connect it to one of the bolts mounting your ballast. That way an internal short will blow the fuse rather than giving you a hot chassis (which could electrocute you!)
Did you get an S51 magnetic core HPS ballast kit? It should have a wiring diagram for hooking it to a 400 Watt High Pressure Sodium lamp. The Ushio 400 Watt Retrofit lamp goes right in place of the HPS lamp. It needs the capacitor and ignitor that come with the ballast.
If you did not get a wiring diagram with your ballast kit, then you need to look for it on the manufacturer's website, or ask the place that sold it to you.
The only thing that might not be on the diagram is the ground wire: That should get connected to the metal chassis that surrounds the powered parts. If you don't have such a protective chassis, then you can just connect it to one of the bolts mounting your ballast. That way an internal short will blow the fuse rather than giving you a hot chassis (which could electrocute you!)
safety tip
If you have a ballast that has multiple input taps, you connect the common wire to neutral and the wire marked for your power voltage (ie. 120 or 240 Volts) to the power switch. Then you need to put a wire nut or electrical tape around each individual end of the other tap wires.
When you run the ballast with 120 VAC in the 120 tap, it will develop 240 VAC at the 240 tap, 270 VAC at the 270 tap, etc. If these wires can short to each other or to you, you will be very sorry! Or possible very dead...
If you have a ballast that has multiple input taps, you connect the common wire to neutral and the wire marked for your power voltage (ie. 120 or 240 Volts) to the power switch. Then you need to put a wire nut or electrical tape around each individual end of the other tap wires.
When you run the ballast with 120 VAC in the 120 tap, it will develop 240 VAC at the 240 tap, 270 VAC at the 270 tap, etc. If these wires can short to each other or to you, you will be very sorry! Or possible very dead...
Ushio lamp
A new MH lamp may have some small beads of material loose inside the inner glass arc tube. These are a normal part of the lamp. After you run it for a short while, those will be vaporised.
If you see glass shards inside the outer glass envelope, and the seal where a wire enters the inner glass tube looks damaged, then you have a defective lamp. If you run it, the inner glass tube will probably explode. Even if it doesn't, the seal will probably leak so it will only work for a few hours. You should try to return it for a replacement.
A new MH lamp may have some small beads of material loose inside the inner glass arc tube. These are a normal part of the lamp. After you run it for a short while, those will be vaporised.
If you see glass shards inside the outer glass envelope, and the seal where a wire enters the inner glass tube looks damaged, then you have a defective lamp. If you run it, the inner glass tube will probably explode. Even if it doesn't, the seal will probably leak so it will only work for a few hours. You should try to return it for a replacement.
Yes I believe the beads(crack) in the lamp is from the arc tube but how come they put that weak glass tube on the arc wire"some of the bulb doesn't carry that glass tube" and I check all over the inside glass of outer glass envelope there is no damage but you are saying the the arc tube beads will vaporize after while? so what about the rest of arc glass tube?? are they going vaporize eventually? am I right?
defective lamp
That lamp is defective. The part that gets the most thermal strain is where the wire passes through the arc tube glass. Every time you run that lamp, more glass will break off. Very soon, the seal between the wire and the glass will fail. Then the hot gas in the arc will leak out into the outer envelope, and the arc will stop working. This could happen in just a few minutes, or the whole thing could explode before it happens. Do not run that lamp!
If you bought it new, you need to return it for a replacement or a refund. If not, then you just need to buy a new one:
atlantalightbulbs.com $38 US + shipping
That lamp is defective. The part that gets the most thermal strain is where the wire passes through the arc tube glass. Every time you run that lamp, more glass will break off. Very soon, the seal between the wire and the glass will fail. Then the hot gas in the arc will leak out into the outer envelope, and the arc will stop working. This could happen in just a few minutes, or the whole thing could explode before it happens. Do not run that lamp!
If you bought it new, you need to return it for a replacement or a refund. If not, then you just need to buy a new one:
atlantalightbulbs.com $38 US + shipping
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