The 3080 has only two internal wires. So I assume you're just using your diy cable for Data + and Data -. And not using the two power pins, correct?
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/dig_interface/aes_ebu/
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/dig_interface/aes_ebu/images/w3080.gif
I forget about long USB cable. No way to success. I m using optical, good for Qobuz 192 khz and less- enough. Who invented this stupid USB anyway ???
Yest
Yes it's right. One cable is for data transfer, the other for the power line: that's why both they have been used as a twin cable (cabling alongside). T,he shielding sheaths are then combined in the common connector (A + B).
Yes it's right. One cable is for data transfer, the other for the power line: that's why both they have been used as a twin cable (cabling alongside). T,he shielding sheaths are then combined in the common connector (A + B).
Where did you source your plugs from? Are they gold, Cu or both? For example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284955857328
Where did you source your plugs from? Are they gold, Cu or both? For example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284955857328
I bought them on an audio store placed in my country. They are gold plated, good quality ones. Here's the link for the USB-A:
https://www.audioteka.it/connettore-usb-maschio-tipo-a-placcato-oro.html
I'd like also to try the Viborg, which have an elegant shape.
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Vborg from China. I have had the exact same plug in my Ali shopping cart for a few days:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801825698782.html
Pretty sure your Italy component is also from "the East" (probably brought back by Marco Polo himself):
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803633204980.html
BTW:
About the separate cable for 5V.
Curious Cables (Australia) has their own solution for that:
https://curiouscables.com/usb-cables
Run a thin cable OUTSIDE the main cable.
Curious Cables also uses SOLID wires for Data lines.
Maybe the source could be this:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832719360379.html
But you'd have to buy empty sheath (tube), also. May be worth it.
Interesting.
Please note that I could be wrong, but some time ago during similar attempts I noticed that the -D +D wires still needed the GND taken from the USB cable/source in order to transmit data.
So am I to assume that in your cable the two combined shields are also at the same time the GND?
Yes, initially I did't care about ground on the D+/D- cable but then I rememberd some devices need a reference (GND) to work properly. I can't say why some do like this, so what you observed is correct.
It is very likely those connectors come for far East, but for the price it's not bad.
Personally I never used solid core cables for digital connections, also I'm a little skeptical about that though could do a fine job. Then as you say a metal sheath must be added on.
I buy the silver wire from France, and I always enjoyed with it. If you are overseas maybe it is not convenient for you.
https://www.perlesandco.com/Fil-rond-en-Argent-fin-9991000-0-40-mm-x-2m-p-67028.html
Made some USB cables many years ago.
Found the plugs to be the most disappointing aspect of DIY. What was available looked even worse than free cables.
In my experience the ground wire was always required. Which only means so much ...
I guess my real question is how important is shielding to USB? Would additional shielding be of use? I plan on trying it with the cable that came with the MUTEC MC3+USB; with either a layer of copper or silver foil and listen for any difference. I would connect the shield to the computer side. Ther is nothing special about this cable other than it works every time. It is longer than I need so I will get something shorter eventually.
I had wondered about adding ferrites. Seeing the TDK device above I wonder if there was a noticeable improvement if phillipsmarantz would report? Looks like this has been around awhile. I see there was a complemntary note on them eleven years ago at Audio Asylum. They are priced all over the place! But for use on an existing cable they might be the best bet.
There has to be a path to improvement, there is for everything else. Spending hundreds of dollars for one is not something I want to do. I have never heard one of these fine art cables so I have no conception of their worth.
Thanks for the thread.
Found the plugs to be the most disappointing aspect of DIY. What was available looked even worse than free cables.
In my experience the ground wire was always required. Which only means so much ...
I guess my real question is how important is shielding to USB? Would additional shielding be of use? I plan on trying it with the cable that came with the MUTEC MC3+USB; with either a layer of copper or silver foil and listen for any difference. I would connect the shield to the computer side. Ther is nothing special about this cable other than it works every time. It is longer than I need so I will get something shorter eventually.
I had wondered about adding ferrites. Seeing the TDK device above I wonder if there was a noticeable improvement if phillipsmarantz would report? Looks like this has been around awhile. I see there was a complemntary note on them eleven years ago at Audio Asylum. They are priced all over the place! But for use on an existing cable they might be the best bet.
There has to be a path to improvement, there is for everything else. Spending hundreds of dollars for one is not something I want to do. I have never heard one of these fine art cables so I have no conception of their worth.
Thanks for the thread.
rickmcinnis:
Well, like with all things audiophile, too many variables and unknowns. A lot has to do with presentation and bling. I think w/ my own diy job -- especially shortening the cable -- did make some improvement in sonics. Not sure about the ferrites. I've always used them on most of my analog and digital cables and speaker cables. Those TDKs go back to the early 90s. I have some Audioquest's that are even fancier.
I can say that better SPDIF cables did lead to SOME sonic improvements.
Also, there is the "bling" factor. Not sure about digital cables but high-end interconnects and speaker cables (not DIY) cables from boutique manuf do hold up value in the used market.
Well, like with all things audiophile, too many variables and unknowns. A lot has to do with presentation and bling. I think w/ my own diy job -- especially shortening the cable -- did make some improvement in sonics. Not sure about the ferrites. I've always used them on most of my analog and digital cables and speaker cables. Those TDKs go back to the early 90s. I have some Audioquest's that are even fancier.
I can say that better SPDIF cables did lead to SOME sonic improvements.
Also, there is the "bling" factor. Not sure about digital cables but high-end interconnects and speaker cables (not DIY) cables from boutique manuf do hold up value in the used market.
Speaking of USB tweaks, something I have played with are isolators. And they do make some improvement for not much $ if you stay away from the boutiques (AQ, PS Audio,...)
HiLetgo ADUM3160 B0505S 1500V USB to USB Voltage Isolator Module Support 12Mbps 1.5Mbps ($15/ ea)
HiLetgo ADUM3160 B0505S 1500V USB to USB Voltage Isolator Module Support 12Mbps 1.5Mbps ($15/ ea)
Please explain how a digital USB signal is improved in sonic performance (analog signal) by using a different cable.
You can transfer signal within 15 meters over a Bluetooth radio, and also over Wi-Fi. No cable needed, just a receiver, an old cell phone works. Other types are also possible.
Also, simply use a big capacity stick, and a DAC of some sort to play the music, 32 GB drives cost less than $5 here in India, and can hold enough music files to last a few hours, simply renew when done. Unless you are listening to a streaming source.
And if you use a laptop or a tablet, bring it near the music system, use a short cable. Recharge battery when needed.
You can transfer signal within 15 meters over a Bluetooth radio, and also over Wi-Fi. No cable needed, just a receiver, an old cell phone works. Other types are also possible.
Also, simply use a big capacity stick, and a DAC of some sort to play the music, 32 GB drives cost less than $5 here in India, and can hold enough music files to last a few hours, simply renew when done. Unless you are listening to a streaming source.
And if you use a laptop or a tablet, bring it near the music system, use a short cable. Recharge battery when needed.
About shielding, care should be taken if you have the input device (laptop, etc.) battery powered and going to the other connected to mains (Earth connected). In this case it is a source for current path towards floating GND, if both ends of connectors are linked, and a compromise would be cut the link to USB-B end or better using a sort of ground lift, made from a suitable capacitor + resistor (acting like an inductor above a certain frequency range against EMI). This helps also towards ESD discharge.
Audiophile USB cables are becoming as controversial as high-end power cords, Naresh!
It can be shown that USB cables tend to round off the square waveforms of the digital pulses. Audiophiles claim this makes the pulses less clear to the processor, introducing timing errors known as jitter.
Some say that audiophile USB cables improve jitter performance and can make an audible difference. Others say that the cable is irrelevant provided it is constructed to specification and is within the maximum allowed cable length.
https://www.cambrionix.com/help_pag...Specifications Standard, 1m 2 more rows
And then there is the whole asynchronous vs adaptive issue. And then tweaking the USB chip firmware to best process audio streams.
USB is pretty "weird" if you try to explain it with measurement instruments and techniques (ca. early 2023).
Audio Precision has been trying to make some headway into this issue.
In any case, you're never really transmitting a "digital" signal in the conventional sense. What's sent down the wires is real-world analog: current, "pushed" by voltage thru resistance. "Digital" really doesn't exist other than in math or code.
USB is pretty "weird" if you try to explain it with measurement instruments and techniques (ca. early 2023).
Audio Precision has been trying to make some headway into this issue.
In any case, you're never really transmitting a "digital" signal in the conventional sense. What's sent down the wires is real-world analog: current, "pushed" by voltage thru resistance. "Digital" really doesn't exist other than in math or code.
So a cable with less magnetic effect will give a cleaner transmission?
My 1992 Mitsubishi A1-N PLC manual says signal good to 300 meters. Again, mostly digital, at 24V.
Like Galu said, this is border line controversial, and will perhaps get a heated response.
Some OCD people will start measuring the solder blobs at the plugs, and solder composition, and claim performance issues.
It is better to stick within the USB specification.
And like I said, use something closer to the device, stay within specification.
My 1992 Mitsubishi A1-N PLC manual says signal good to 300 meters. Again, mostly digital, at 24V.
Like Galu said, this is border line controversial, and will perhaps get a heated response.
Some OCD people will start measuring the solder blobs at the plugs, and solder composition, and claim performance issues.
It is better to stick within the USB specification.
And like I said, use something closer to the device, stay within specification.
Most audio-related discussion about USB cable end at the PC jack (female port).
However, there is still the PC internal connections (inside the case).
All things held equal, such as you're using a decent motherboard and PSU to begin with, two possibilities exist:
(1) Use USB ports that are affixed to the motherboard itself (usually, the jacks/ports on the REAR)
(2) Use front or top ports on your PC case. (see image)--the end on the right is at the mbd pcb. In this case, you may consider re-wiring these to higher quality, solid silver or Cu wire.
However, there is still the PC internal connections (inside the case).
All things held equal, such as you're using a decent motherboard and PSU to begin with, two possibilities exist:
(1) Use USB ports that are affixed to the motherboard itself (usually, the jacks/ports on the REAR)
(2) Use front or top ports on your PC case. (see image)--the end on the right is at the mbd pcb. In this case, you may consider re-wiring these to higher quality, solid silver or Cu wire.