Anyone have schematics on this amp or knows what resistors go in certain locations since some are very burnt up?
Ok i just noticed this someone put the wrong end cap on this amp its the VLX 400 board not the 200.
Heres the condition i got this amp in Im gonna strip the paint off and re power coat the amp and put some decals back on if anyone is inrested on seeing me restore this amp
Heres the condition i got this amp in Im gonna strip the paint off and re power coat the amp and put some decals back on if anyone is inrested on seeing me restore this amp
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If you wanna post pics, and a play by play as you go, i would be interested in looking. I wonder if they make a macro/panorama lens.
probably already know this.
US Amps VLX-200
2 x 100W @ 4 ohms
2 x 200W @ 2 ohms
2 x 400W @ 1 ohm
2 x 800W @ ½ ohm
1 x 1600W @ 1 ohm bridged
probably already know this.
US Amps VLX-200
2 x 100W @ 4 ohms
2 x 200W @ 2 ohms
2 x 400W @ 1 ohm
2 x 800W @ ½ ohm
1 x 1600W @ 1 ohm bridged
If you look on ampguts at the VLX 200 it has 1 transformer The board i have has 4 transformers on it it looks like the 400 board but wondering if anyone knows if this is a rev board where they put 4 transformers on the 200 board
this is the best i could find. It looks like both of them have 4 transformers. Check out this guy was selling a 200 and 400.
oldschool amsp for sale ***us amps*** - DIYMA.com
oldschool amsp for sale ***us amps*** - DIYMA.com
You will need a lot of patience, especially if you plan to re-use the original insulators. To repair it properly, every insulator will need to be cleaned individually. Kapton film may be a better option.
Perry,
Thats kinda what i was thinking . Theres a ton of mica insulators for this amp.
Do you know where i can get the kapton film from?
Also i have to repalce all the emitter resistors in 1 bank of outputs the outputs are also defective in that bank. Is it better to replace all of the outputs in the amp or would it be fine if i replaced only the 1 bank of defective outputs?
Last question is on the bottom of the board 1 of the large traces got hot and the coating is gone whats the best way to keep it attached to the board ?
Thats kinda what i was thinking . Theres a ton of mica insulators for this amp.
Do you know where i can get the kapton film from?
Also i have to repalce all the emitter resistors in 1 bank of outputs the outputs are also defective in that bank. Is it better to replace all of the outputs in the amp or would it be fine if i replaced only the 1 bank of defective outputs?
Last question is on the bottom of the board 1 of the large traces got hot and the coating is gone whats the best way to keep it attached to the board ?
You can get the Kapton HERE.
Replacing all of them would probably make it a bit more reliable (random failure of semiconductors increases with time, especially after about 15 years) but you'll have to decide whether the time and expense is worth it to you.
If the trace came up cleanly and there is no evidence of overheating on the opposite side of the board, clean the trace thoroughly (fiberglass scratch pen or very fine sandpaper) and solder either a 12/14g wire or several strips of desoldering braid to the entire length of the burned area plus at least 1" beyond the burned area. Thoroughly tin either the wire or the braid. GOOP. E6000 or JB Weld will all work to secure the trace. Work them under the trace with a piece of stiff paper or a piece of card stock. I don't like using mercaptan cured epoxies because of the odor produced if you ever have to heat the trace in the future.
Replacing all of them would probably make it a bit more reliable (random failure of semiconductors increases with time, especially after about 15 years) but you'll have to decide whether the time and expense is worth it to you.
If the trace came up cleanly and there is no evidence of overheating on the opposite side of the board, clean the trace thoroughly (fiberglass scratch pen or very fine sandpaper) and solder either a 12/14g wire or several strips of desoldering braid to the entire length of the burned area plus at least 1" beyond the burned area. Thoroughly tin either the wire or the braid. GOOP. E6000 or JB Weld will all work to secure the trace. Work them under the trace with a piece of stiff paper or a piece of card stock. I don't like using mercaptan cured epoxies because of the odor produced if you ever have to heat the trace in the future.
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