US AMPS VLX 200
- Thread starter mike49504
- Start date
Ok i just noticed this someone put the wrong end cap on this amp its the VLX 400 board not the 200.
Heres the condition i got this amp in Im gonna strip the paint off and re power coat the amp and put some decals back on if anyone is inrested on seeing me restore this amp
Heres the condition i got this amp in Im gonna strip the paint off and re power coat the amp and put some decals back on if anyone is inrested on seeing me restore this amp
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this is the best i could find. It looks like both of them have 4 transformers. Check out this guy was selling a 200 and 400.
oldschool amsp for sale ***us amps*** - DIYMA.com
oldschool amsp for sale ***us amps*** - DIYMA.com
Perry,
Thats kinda what i was thinking . Theres a ton of mica insulators for this amp.
Do you know where i can get the kapton film from?
Also i have to repalce all the emitter resistors in 1 bank of outputs the outputs are also defective in that bank. Is it better to replace all of the outputs in the amp or would it be fine if i replaced only the 1 bank of defective outputs?
Last question is on the bottom of the board 1 of the large traces got hot and the coating is gone whats the best way to keep it attached to the board ?
Thats kinda what i was thinking . Theres a ton of mica insulators for this amp.
Do you know where i can get the kapton film from?
Also i have to repalce all the emitter resistors in 1 bank of outputs the outputs are also defective in that bank. Is it better to replace all of the outputs in the amp or would it be fine if i replaced only the 1 bank of defective outputs?
Last question is on the bottom of the board 1 of the large traces got hot and the coating is gone whats the best way to keep it attached to the board ?
You can get the Kapton HERE.
Replacing all of them would probably make it a bit more reliable (random failure of semiconductors increases with time, especially after about 15 years) but you'll have to decide whether the time and expense is worth it to you.
If the trace came up cleanly and there is no evidence of overheating on the opposite side of the board, clean the trace thoroughly (fiberglass scratch pen or very fine sandpaper) and solder either a 12/14g wire or several strips of desoldering braid to the entire length of the burned area plus at least 1" beyond the burned area. Thoroughly tin either the wire or the braid. GOOP. E6000 or JB Weld will all work to secure the trace. Work them under the trace with a piece of stiff paper or a piece of card stock. I don't like using mercaptan cured epoxies because of the odor produced if you ever have to heat the trace in the future.
Replacing all of them would probably make it a bit more reliable (random failure of semiconductors increases with time, especially after about 15 years) but you'll have to decide whether the time and expense is worth it to you.
If the trace came up cleanly and there is no evidence of overheating on the opposite side of the board, clean the trace thoroughly (fiberglass scratch pen or very fine sandpaper) and solder either a 12/14g wire or several strips of desoldering braid to the entire length of the burned area plus at least 1" beyond the burned area. Thoroughly tin either the wire or the braid. GOOP. E6000 or JB Weld will all work to secure the trace. Work them under the trace with a piece of stiff paper or a piece of card stock. I don't like using mercaptan cured epoxies because of the odor produced if you ever have to heat the trace in the future.