bearbearloo,
#2610 is there as a reservior for the oscillator supplies and associated inverters, I'd leave it in place. It's bypassed with 100nF (#2113, #2110) at IC 7103 and 7100 but if you want you could bypass further with something like a 10nF. How do you propose to connect your clock, lift pin 7 of IC 7103 and feed in there? You could look at providing a new supply for your clock, and/or see how successfully inductor 5603 manages to prevent the switching noise feeding back into the 3.3V DAC and Digital supplies.
Jon
#2610 is there as a reservior for the oscillator supplies and associated inverters, I'd leave it in place. It's bypassed with 100nF (#2113, #2110) at IC 7103 and 7100 but if you want you could bypass further with something like a 10nF. How do you propose to connect your clock, lift pin 7 of IC 7103 and feed in there? You could look at providing a new supply for your clock, and/or see how successfully inductor 5603 manages to prevent the switching noise feeding back into the 3.3V DAC and Digital supplies.
Jon
Jon,
Thanks again and sorry for my late reply ....
- I still have no idea about the clock connection so I asked for some pics here in order to let me have a reference.
- Sure, I will add an additional power supply for the clock module.
Cheers
Thanks again and sorry for my late reply ....
- I still have no idea about the clock connection so I asked for some pics here in order to let me have a reference.
- Sure, I will add an additional power supply for the clock module.
Cheers
upgrades to 963sa
One of the main flaws I notice with my 963sa, and this seems to be most apparent when listening to SACD, not so much with red book CDs, is a kind of compression or "squashing" of the higher frequencies during orchestral peaks, especially with massed strings. It is as though the sound level hits a ceiling and cannot go further. This is in contrast to well recoded vinyl when you have the impression that the sound could just keep increasing without limit or effort. Has anyone else noticed this, and, if so, could they suggest what the best place might be to start my upgrades to try to open up the sound a bit on loud passages and relieve some of this apparent tension? Also, could anyone recommend a really well-recorded large orchestral SACD (the problem could also be partly due to some of the recordings I have bought thus far [Telarc and Living Stereo])
Thanks very much
Chris
One of the main flaws I notice with my 963sa, and this seems to be most apparent when listening to SACD, not so much with red book CDs, is a kind of compression or "squashing" of the higher frequencies during orchestral peaks, especially with massed strings. It is as though the sound level hits a ceiling and cannot go further. This is in contrast to well recoded vinyl when you have the impression that the sound could just keep increasing without limit or effort. Has anyone else noticed this, and, if so, could they suggest what the best place might be to start my upgrades to try to open up the sound a bit on loud passages and relieve some of this apparent tension? Also, could anyone recommend a really well-recorded large orchestral SACD (the problem could also be partly due to some of the recordings I have bought thus far [Telarc and Living Stereo])
Thanks very much
Chris
Re: Tent Clock
what ever happened with the malfunctioning player? You said it died after hooking up a linear ps for the analog out? If there is a risk to permanently damage the player during this mod, I would like to know before diving in and not knowing how to fix it.
Thanks for sharing!
Hi Saffier,saffier said:
what ever happened with the malfunctioning player? You said it died after hooking up a linear ps for the analog out? If there is a risk to permanently damage the player during this mod, I would like to know before diving in and not knowing how to fix it.
Thanks for sharing!
maybe it has more to do with the mastering process. After all - most studios use pcm for mastering which than has to be converted to dsd.
One should question the influence of the copy protection encoding on the sound.
The torture never stops!!
Hi Hans,
Well, yes my 963SA is up and running again.😀
I bought a second unit with a defective drive unit, the rest was still OK. I exchanged the AV board after making all the mods discussed previously. The linear PSU was left out.
The DAC chip was blown up with linear PSU, I aslo got some doubts about the effect of the PSU after talking to some other tweakers. It seems the linear PSU will introduce other unwanted effects.
I did some other mods which yielded better sound.
First of all I damped the drive unit. I have put two layers of lead bitumen on the sides of the plastic drive carriage (not on the moving parts!!), added some extra to the chassis.
This resulted in a more open sound, deeper soundstage.
The two output caps (already swapped by BG N's) where exchanged by BG N's in the super E-cap configuration. Mounted on a wooden block and inserted into the players chassis. This is a major tweak!!!
As if CD turned into SACD
The filtering cap for the osscilator was also swapped from a BG standard to a BG N cap.
I'm considering to have more BG N's in super E-cap configuration inserted into the signal path.
Next week I will insert two Bybee slipstreams into the players output. Let's see what this will do to the sound.
Than I have the following tweak on my list: exchang the RCA chassis connectors with WBT nextgen RCA's.
Oh, I almost forgot: I also did take out the rectifier bridge from the SMPS and exchaged it with BYV96E rectifiers bypassed by fast foil caps in a snubber configuration. More tube like sound.
An other idea I have is to try out an other way of resonance control.
Now I have the player on special decoupling feet, the same as under the Njoe Tjoeb 4000 player. But I want to try COUPLING blocks, high density alu discs, very high polished to have max coupling and draining of resonances. I can make these in my company's metal workshop.
I'll report later...
Have a nice, musical day.....
Saffier
Hi Hans,
Well, yes my 963SA is up and running again.😀
I bought a second unit with a defective drive unit, the rest was still OK. I exchanged the AV board after making all the mods discussed previously. The linear PSU was left out.
The DAC chip was blown up with linear PSU, I aslo got some doubts about the effect of the PSU after talking to some other tweakers. It seems the linear PSU will introduce other unwanted effects.
I did some other mods which yielded better sound.
First of all I damped the drive unit. I have put two layers of lead bitumen on the sides of the plastic drive carriage (not on the moving parts!!), added some extra to the chassis.
This resulted in a more open sound, deeper soundstage.
The two output caps (already swapped by BG N's) where exchanged by BG N's in the super E-cap configuration. Mounted on a wooden block and inserted into the players chassis. This is a major tweak!!!
As if CD turned into SACD
The filtering cap for the osscilator was also swapped from a BG standard to a BG N cap.
I'm considering to have more BG N's in super E-cap configuration inserted into the signal path.
Next week I will insert two Bybee slipstreams into the players output. Let's see what this will do to the sound.
Than I have the following tweak on my list: exchang the RCA chassis connectors with WBT nextgen RCA's.
Oh, I almost forgot: I also did take out the rectifier bridge from the SMPS and exchaged it with BYV96E rectifiers bypassed by fast foil caps in a snubber configuration. More tube like sound.
An other idea I have is to try out an other way of resonance control.
Now I have the player on special decoupling feet, the same as under the Njoe Tjoeb 4000 player. But I want to try COUPLING blocks, high density alu discs, very high polished to have max coupling and draining of resonances. I can make these in my company's metal workshop.
I'll report later...
Have a nice, musical day.....
Saffier
opamps out ?
Saffier (and others),
I have just put in a Jensen 4-pole cap and different rectifier diodes in the power supply. My plans are to piggy-back the dac-chip and put a discrete I/V converter (Kit from Borbely). Why didn't you yank out those opamps then you don't have outputcaps at all ?
I expect that a different outputstage will give the best progress ?
Any opinions on this ?
regards,
Saffier (and others),
I have just put in a Jensen 4-pole cap and different rectifier diodes in the power supply. My plans are to piggy-back the dac-chip and put a discrete I/V converter (Kit from Borbely). Why didn't you yank out those opamps then you don't have outputcaps at all ?
I expect that a different outputstage will give the best progress ?
Any opinions on this ?
regards,
More torture
Yes, you are right. Take the signal from the DAC and thus bypass the op-amps. But the super E-cap is a fairly cost effective way towards sound without caps!!
You can also have transformers as output devices, some guys have mounted Audio Consulting transformers into their 963SA's...
This another way of doing it, see my project for this option....
DHT output stage, fully battery supplied...with top notch components...
I will probably finish this in the next couple of months. It will be mounted in the same enclosure as the 963SA, I had this enclosure left from my second unit... Will match perfectly cosmetically.
See you....!!
Saffier
Yes, you are right. Take the signal from the DAC and thus bypass the op-amps. But the super E-cap is a fairly cost effective way towards sound without caps!!
You can also have transformers as output devices, some guys have mounted Audio Consulting transformers into their 963SA's...
This another way of doing it, see my project for this option....
DHT output stage, fully battery supplied...with top notch components...
I will probably finish this in the next couple of months. It will be mounted in the same enclosure as the 963SA, I had this enclosure left from my second unit... Will match perfectly cosmetically.
See you....!!
Saffier
Attachments
Re: More torture
So it was a blown dac because over the linear psu? Overvoltage? Or is it more difficult than that?
Cheers,
Hans.
So it was a blown dac because over the linear psu? Overvoltage? Or is it more difficult than that?
How much money have you spent on BG caps and such? I'm trying to get a feel of what investement will be rewarding. And where do you buy BG in NL?
Cheers,
Hans.
Tips
Hans,
No overvoltage but wrongly wired. The ground was wired to the +12V voltage and therefore the CS DAC was blown, not the AD1955, so I can use this one to piggy back on the existing AD1955.
Yes you can buy BG in NL, but all to expensive. I buy from Rod at
www.kyoto-electro.com .
You can spend as much money as you like on modding, depends on what you want.
Basic changes will cost you arround EURO 100,00 or so, and you can take it from there.....
Have fun,
Saffier😎
Hans,
No overvoltage but wrongly wired. The ground was wired to the +12V voltage and therefore the CS DAC was blown, not the AD1955, so I can use this one to piggy back on the existing AD1955.
Yes you can buy BG in NL, but all to expensive. I buy from Rod at
www.kyoto-electro.com .
You can spend as much money as you like on modding, depends on what you want.
Basic changes will cost you arround EURO 100,00 or so, and you can take it from there.....
Have fun,
Saffier😎
With all the suggested mods - I have found one thing lacking. Namely how to improve the digital output in order to use an external dac..
Anybody have any ideas on that?
Anybody have any ideas on that?
Good question. My own experience, and for what I have read from others - the digital output is somewhat lacking in sound quality. So even when connected to a good dac, you get a degraded sound, compared to other players.
So is there any way to improve the signal?
F.EX. taking the signal closer upstream, or if there are any components in the digital path (have not checked the diagram, as I dont have one)..
So is there any way to improve the signal?
F.EX. taking the signal closer upstream, or if there are any components in the digital path (have not checked the diagram, as I dont have one)..
I really do not understand how a digital outlet should be degrading soundquality.The degradation could imo only come from reading errors of the laser pick up system. Do I smell a whiff of voodoo here?
My experience - comparing a philips with a micromega stage 2 driving an exterior dac - showed no difference.
My experience - comparing a philips with a micromega stage 2 driving an exterior dac - showed no difference.
how to connect new outputstage
Are there any people how have connected a new (active) I/V converter to the AD1955 dac in the DVD963sa ?
As the AD1955 has an differential output how did you connect a single ended device on it ?🙁
Are there any people how have connected a new (active) I/V converter to the AD1955 dac in the DVD963sa ?
As the AD1955 has an differential output how did you connect a single ended device on it ?🙁
upgrades
Hi Saffier,
Could you post some pictures of the lead bitumen damping (where does one buy this) on sides of the drive unit and your output caps mounted on a wood block? This would help a lot for newbies like me who have trouble visualizing how these things look inside the player.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Saffier,
Could you post some pictures of the lead bitumen damping (where does one buy this) on sides of the drive unit and your output caps mounted on a wood block? This would help a lot for newbies like me who have trouble visualizing how these things look inside the player.
Thanks
Chris
Next level...
Hi Chris,
Lead bitumen can be purchased in a car parts store. They use this type of damoing material also to dampen resonances (annoying noises) in a car. This will set you off a few bucks only.
I will post some new pictures in the next two weeks. For the time being you can take a look at:
www.picturetrail.com/s.brull
Did you also read the
www.referenceaudiomods.com
www.asi-audio.com
Both sites are moderated by Doug Jesse.
Saffier
Hi Chris,
Lead bitumen can be purchased in a car parts store. They use this type of damoing material also to dampen resonances (annoying noises) in a car. This will set you off a few bucks only.
I will post some new pictures in the next two weeks. For the time being you can take a look at:
www.picturetrail.com/s.brull
Did you also read the
www.referenceaudiomods.com
www.asi-audio.com
Both sites are moderated by Doug Jesse.
Saffier
963sa upgrades
Hi Saffier,
Thanks for the links. That's an impressive system you've put together. I have a couple questions about the 963 pics:
1) are those ferrites you put around the lines coming out of the power supply?
2) It looks as though you've swapped a lot of caps for blackgates; could you tell me which ones you found most critical?
3) when you put the Bybee's, where did they go, and what was the effect?
Thanks again
Chris
Hi Saffier,
Thanks for the links. That's an impressive system you've put together. I have a couple questions about the 963 pics:
1) are those ferrites you put around the lines coming out of the power supply?
2) It looks as though you've swapped a lot of caps for blackgates; could you tell me which ones you found most critical?
3) when you put the Bybee's, where did they go, and what was the effect?
Thanks again
Chris
Q&A
Yes, these are ferrites. I also used them around the output caps wires, but I'm not so sure this is wat I want. Though I can recommend them around the power cables.
Well this is a long story which has been addressed elswere in this forum. Please look into the comments made by Eric and Lucas.
I have one Bybee slipstream on the phase of the mains, just after the mains filtering. I ordered two additional Bybee slipstreams which will probably arrive end of this week and those will be put on the driver tube of my amps. I first thought about putting them just after the output caps of the 963SA but if I use them in my amps or speakers my analog source will also benefit from them.
Lets see where it takes us.....
I'm considering to solder my Audio Consulting pure silver interlinks directly to the AV board in order to bypass the horrible standard female output RCA jacks. I took them apart on my "spare" 963SA AV board, and they are really the cheapest of the cheapest, dreadfull quality.
Bye(bee),
Saffier
Yes, these are ferrites. I also used them around the output caps wires, but I'm not so sure this is wat I want. Though I can recommend them around the power cables.
Well this is a long story which has been addressed elswere in this forum. Please look into the comments made by Eric and Lucas.
I have one Bybee slipstream on the phase of the mains, just after the mains filtering. I ordered two additional Bybee slipstreams which will probably arrive end of this week and those will be put on the driver tube of my amps. I first thought about putting them just after the output caps of the 963SA but if I use them in my amps or speakers my analog source will also benefit from them.
Lets see where it takes us.....
I'm considering to solder my Audio Consulting pure silver interlinks directly to the AV board in order to bypass the horrible standard female output RCA jacks. I took them apart on my "spare" 963SA AV board, and they are really the cheapest of the cheapest, dreadfull quality.
Bye(bee),
Saffier
how to connect psu of new output stage
I have a new outputstage (D1 - Nelson Pass) that i want to connect to the 963sa. Can anybody give me a hint how to connect the psu ? Some parts of the player stay on standby if you hit the power knob on the front. If I want to shut the new outputstage off I suspect that I have to use a relais. But how to do is is not clear to this newbie.
I have a new outputstage (D1 - Nelson Pass) that i want to connect to the 963sa. Can anybody give me a hint how to connect the psu ? Some parts of the player stay on standby if you hit the power knob on the front. If I want to shut the new outputstage off I suspect that I have to use a relais. But how to do is is not clear to this newbie.