Sixto,
Swapping drivers around is one of the hardest thing newbies do. If you are going to go that route, it is much faster, cost effective, and higher satisfaction if you just start from a new, pre-designed kit.
Best,
E
Swapping drivers around is one of the hardest thing newbies do. If you are going to go that route, it is much faster, cost effective, and higher satisfaction if you just start from a new, pre-designed kit.
Best,
E
Thanks Allen and Erik!
I've started the search for original replacement drivers, so will stick with the factory specs for now (until something else goes). Thanks for the advice! Always good to hear the voices of experience.
Sixto.
I've started the search for original replacement drivers, so will stick with the factory specs for now (until something else goes). Thanks for the advice! Always good to hear the voices of experience.
Sixto.
Hello all,
I'm late for the show but I hope some of you still receive notifications...
I'm the original owner of a set of DM640i speakers and I will finally rebuild/upgrade the crossovers. I've read through this thread and it seems that I'm heading in the right direction...so far. I'm making my parts selections and I'm a little perplexed with all the inductor options. Since this is an existing crossover design, I want to improve the components with higher quality parts, and I'm afraid of creative some negative effects by not understanding all the electrical dynamics. Most premium inductors are foil or air core and usually made with a larger than original gauge wire. I'm also looking at the internal wiring and thinking that it has room for improvement as well. Hopefully, there is someone familiar with this thread that can respond, otherwise I'll just start a new one.
Thanks.
I'm late for the show but I hope some of you still receive notifications...
I'm the original owner of a set of DM640i speakers and I will finally rebuild/upgrade the crossovers. I've read through this thread and it seems that I'm heading in the right direction...so far. I'm making my parts selections and I'm a little perplexed with all the inductor options. Since this is an existing crossover design, I want to improve the components with higher quality parts, and I'm afraid of creative some negative effects by not understanding all the electrical dynamics. Most premium inductors are foil or air core and usually made with a larger than original gauge wire. I'm also looking at the internal wiring and thinking that it has room for improvement as well. Hopefully, there is someone familiar with this thread that can respond, otherwise I'll just start a new one.
Thanks.
hi everybody ! So glad to have found this discussion, so I joined the community.
I got a pair of DM640 for nearly 3 years now. I really like 'em.
Last winter, I refreshed all the electrolytics for some fresh Solen polypropylene caps.
Now, my tweeters are definitely louder than before, I really miss the warm & balanced tone I could get from the speakers previously. I could use the Direct mode on my amp (Arcam AVR200) previously, now I need to turn the Treble down and raise the Bass (about -1/+1). When I listen to digital source (Apple Music Hifi thru iFi ZenDac), its not too bad, but when switching to vinyls, its way too bright now! (MusicHall 2.2 TT, Cambridge 551P preamp, Ortofon Blue cart).
I was told to put a small resistor in series with the tweeters to tame down the highs, but that will change its impedance and mess with x-over tuning.
Do you have suggestion or approach I should be looking at? No other changes were done to my system before/after caps upgrade. Thank you guys!
I got a pair of DM640 for nearly 3 years now. I really like 'em.
Last winter, I refreshed all the electrolytics for some fresh Solen polypropylene caps.
Now, my tweeters are definitely louder than before, I really miss the warm & balanced tone I could get from the speakers previously. I could use the Direct mode on my amp (Arcam AVR200) previously, now I need to turn the Treble down and raise the Bass (about -1/+1). When I listen to digital source (Apple Music Hifi thru iFi ZenDac), its not too bad, but when switching to vinyls, its way too bright now! (MusicHall 2.2 TT, Cambridge 551P preamp, Ortofon Blue cart).
I was told to put a small resistor in series with the tweeters to tame down the highs, but that will change its impedance and mess with x-over tuning.
Do you have suggestion or approach I should be looking at? No other changes were done to my system before/after caps upgrade. Thank you guys!
For passive tweeter attenuation, an L-Pad is the usual choice. In simple form, it is a resistor in series, combined with a resistor in parallel. Together they maintain the impedance. Here is a link to a calculator. It is very helpful to know how much attenuation you require before starting to gather the parts.
L pad calculator - attenuation dB damping impedance decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
L pad calculator - attenuation dB damping impedance decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
It shouldn't. It is being presumed that your treble is louder due to the new capacitor having less resistance of its own, and we're talking a fraction of an ohm. The resistance is intended to restore the original condition.I was told to put a small resistor in series with the tweeters to tame down the highs, but that will change its impedance and mess with x-over tuning.
Thank you AllenB.
So what value would you start with ? 0.5 ? or more around 3 ?
And what about the wattage ? Does 15w sounds sufficient ?
I am also thinking about getting a full redesign of the crossover after reading that thread :
B&W DM602 s3 crossover mod
Man... so glad I found this forum !
So what value would you start with ? 0.5 ? or more around 3 ?
And what about the wattage ? Does 15w sounds sufficient ?
I am also thinking about getting a full redesign of the crossover after reading that thread :
B&W DM602 s3 crossover mod
Man... so glad I found this forum !
Less than 0.5 is the place to try. 15W is quite large but will still work, some like to use 5W and even those are often larger than necessary. But it's good to have the larger ones around for woofer use.
A complete crossover redesign is worth taking your time over.
A complete crossover redesign is worth taking your time over.
Less than 0.5 is the place to try. 15W is quite large but will still work, some like to use 5W and even those are often larger than necessary. But it's good to have the larger ones around for woofer use.
A complete crossover redesign is worth taking your time over.
So I made this simple mod, I added a 1-ohm 7w resistor and it made me smile instantly. 🙂 Next I’ll probably add a 10-ohms resistor in parallel to compensate for the impedance change. The tweeter btw is labeled 4-ohm not 8 as I first assumed. Thanks for your help!
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