Kwak Clock vs. Cunos clock (see my previous post).
Does anybody have any opinion on the difference in sound between the two clocks?
Is it realy nececary to get a new crystal to obtain god results? Does the Kwak clock reduce jitter?
😕
Does anybody have any opinion on the difference in sound between the two clocks?
Is it realy nececary to get a new crystal to obtain god results? Does the Kwak clock reduce jitter?
😕
KWAK-CLOCK vs. Guido Tent clock
Hi,
Hi Chris,
Cuno is referring to Guido Tent's clock.
Both my clock and Guido's clock are low jitter. Guido is offering a small encapsulated crystal oscillator while I am offering a circuit that works with the quartz crystal from the CD-player. Which one is better? Let others decide on that.....😉
Hi,
Hi Chris,
Cuno is referring to Guido Tent's clock.
Both my clock and Guido's clock are low jitter. Guido is offering a small encapsulated crystal oscillator while I am offering a circuit that works with the quartz crystal from the CD-player. Which one is better? Let others decide on that.....😉
dear all,
The best clock is the one with lowest jitter, whereas a dedicated range of the spectrum should be realy low.
Comparing clocks by ear is a process with many pitfalls, as a certain type of jitter can mask artefacts of the system.
If you like that, it is OK to me, but It is not my cup of tea.
If you want a basis for high resolution, low distortion, low stress audio, a real low jitter clock is required (ofcourse more is, but you should start somewhere).
In order to measure the jitter, a Wavecrest jitter analyser is the only suitable tool.
All other measurement equipement is a waste, as it is not possible to go as low as 3 ps.
A spectrum analyser can help, but should be used with great care and interpreted the right way around.
all the best
Guido
The best clock is the one with lowest jitter, whereas a dedicated range of the spectrum should be realy low.
Comparing clocks by ear is a process with many pitfalls, as a certain type of jitter can mask artefacts of the system.
If you like that, it is OK to me, but It is not my cup of tea.
If you want a basis for high resolution, low distortion, low stress audio, a real low jitter clock is required (ofcourse more is, but you should start somewhere).
In order to measure the jitter, a Wavecrest jitter analyser is the only suitable tool.
All other measurement equipement is a waste, as it is not possible to go as low as 3 ps.
A spectrum analyser can help, but should be used with great care and interpreted the right way around.
all the best
Guido
Sorry for not reading all threads...
Was there a Jitter measuring on the Elso or Guido clock and
how they compare from a measuring point of view!?
Or is this all just David against David?
Was there a Jitter measuring on the Elso or Guido clock and
how they compare from a measuring point of view!?
Or is this all just David against David?
Jitter Specs
Hi Wombat,
I am sorry I can't offer any jitter specs for my clock. I don't have access to that kind of expensive equipment. The goal of my clockmod is good sound and the KWAK-CLOCK is developed with that purpose in mind, entirely by ear. And I have a 200MHz scope and a pair of Klipschorns.
Hi Wombat,
I am sorry I can't offer any jitter specs for my clock. I don't have access to that kind of expensive equipment. The goal of my clockmod is good sound and the KWAK-CLOCK is developed with that purpose in mind, entirely by ear. And I have a 200MHz scope and a pair of Klipschorns.
Hi
Thanks Elso for sending me the schematic for your clock 🙂
I have a question: Is it really neccesary to use a scope to adjust the clock to obtain good results or is it enough to adjust the voltage of the pot to somewhere between +0.5 and +0.6 volt?
And another question: When designig a pcb board for thr clock is there any does and dont`s regarding placement of the components?
Chris
Thanks Elso for sending me the schematic for your clock 🙂
I have a question: Is it really neccesary to use a scope to adjust the clock to obtain good results or is it enough to adjust the voltage of the pot to somewhere between +0.5 and +0.6 volt?
And another question: When designig a pcb board for thr clock is there any does and dont`s regarding placement of the components?
Chris
KWAK-CLOCK Questions
Hi Chris,
ideally you should use a scope to adjust the duty cycle. But I found in my player is still worked with the pot grossly misadjusted. It depends somewhat on the FET wihch voltage you get. You can also set the pot in between the two positions where it stops working.
To prevent interference form the output I place the FET and the crystal at the leftside of the comparator. As the supply connects to pin 1 and pin 4, the + supply is placed above pin 1 and the negative supply below pin 4 or at the rightside.
Hi Chris,
ideally you should use a scope to adjust the duty cycle. But I found in my player is still worked with the pot grossly misadjusted. It depends somewhat on the FET wihch voltage you get. You can also set the pot in between the two positions where it stops working.
To prevent interference form the output I place the FET and the crystal at the leftside of the comparator. As the supply connects to pin 1 and pin 4, the + supply is placed above pin 1 and the negative supply below pin 4 or at the rightside.
I cannot get the max913 or the ad8561 at the company (ELFA) i use. Is it possible to use the max921 instead:
http://www.elfa.se/pdf/73/732/07325202.pdf
Chris🙂
http://www.elfa.se/pdf/73/732/07325202.pdf
Chris🙂
more mods
yesterday i put lots of dampening material (brown bread roll) into my player, this includes under the PCB and around the whole top inside.
i have definatly noticed some change in sound from this mod as well as the previous mads which were changing the HDAM to OPA2604's and putting a AC filter and IEC in, (resulted in a more defined mid range and the whole sound being much more transparant) this mod has made the music loose some of the 'edge' it has before, but it sounds clearer still so i am not sure if i like the results.
i am planning to put a new clock in, but this at the moment is restricted by other projects - as i am also making some gainclones
yesterday i put lots of dampening material (brown bread roll) into my player, this includes under the PCB and around the whole top inside.
i have definatly noticed some change in sound from this mod as well as the previous mads which were changing the HDAM to OPA2604's and putting a AC filter and IEC in, (resulted in a more defined mid range and the whole sound being much more transparant) this mod has made the music loose some of the 'edge' it has before, but it sounds clearer still so i am not sure if i like the results.
i am planning to put a new clock in, but this at the moment is restricted by other projects - as i am also making some gainclones
Garmin's schematic for CD17 MK-II
Hi Arek,
You said you would put up the schematic for the CD17 (MKII ?). I could not find it on your site. Will you be putting it up? You could also email it to me if possible.
Thanks.
Ashok.
Hi Arek,
You said you would put up the schematic for the CD17 (MKII ?). I could not find it on your site. Will you be putting it up? You could also email it to me if possible.
Thanks.
Ashok.
marantz cd 6000se
hi go for it but be care full as these cd players can match the best of the hi end if tweaked properly i tweak them for a living im am the marantz guru i have modified over 20 players they are giant slayers cd 63 67 63 ki 6000 i must admit they take more work but they sound out of this world the 63 s 67 s are better in my ears only when modified read this one happy cosumer said this
| | | Inbox
hi john
the player arrived back safely at 9.00 am this morning,a BIG THANKYOU FOR THAT.it has taken me awhile to connect it all back up.once set up i turned on & IT'S ABSOLUTELY AMAZING,& this is from cold, so fast forward 2 weeks,how will it sound then? i can't wait.it's playing now & i can't believe what i am hearing.it's the best sound i have ever heard,fast,crystal clear,no muddled midrange all instruments so coherent & one hell of a thumpy bass,& your telling me it will get even better, WOW!!!!!!.who would think that an ordinary marantz k.i. that was great before could possibly sound THIS FANTASTIC.john your work on this machine is nothing short of miraculous.A MASSIVE THANKYOU anybody wishing to contact me regarding your work feel free to give them my email address.i have messed around with different interconnects, speaker cables amps etc,but without a doubt this is the BEST upgrade i have ever had.john you are an absolute GENIUS mate.i will email you again soon just to let you know how it's performing.cheers for now.
many many thanks again,colin
hi go for it but be care full as these cd players can match the best of the hi end if tweaked properly i tweak them for a living im am the marantz guru i have modified over 20 players they are giant slayers cd 63 67 63 ki 6000 i must admit they take more work but they sound out of this world the 63 s 67 s are better in my ears only when modified read this one happy cosumer said this
| | | Inbox
hi john
the player arrived back safely at 9.00 am this morning,a BIG THANKYOU FOR THAT.it has taken me awhile to connect it all back up.once set up i turned on & IT'S ABSOLUTELY AMAZING,& this is from cold, so fast forward 2 weeks,how will it sound then? i can't wait.it's playing now & i can't believe what i am hearing.it's the best sound i have ever heard,fast,crystal clear,no muddled midrange all instruments so coherent & one hell of a thumpy bass,& your telling me it will get even better, WOW!!!!!!.who would think that an ordinary marantz k.i. that was great before could possibly sound THIS FANTASTIC.john your work on this machine is nothing short of miraculous.A MASSIVE THANKYOU anybody wishing to contact me regarding your work feel free to give them my email address.i have messed around with different interconnects, speaker cables amps etc,but without a doubt this is the BEST upgrade i have ever had.john you are an absolute GENIUS mate.i will email you again soon just to let you know how it's performing.cheers for now.
many many thanks again,colin
Jean Paul, this is the best post Ive read on this forum, echos my sentiment🙂
Ive been a bit bad and started a new project before I finish my philips cd650 upgrade. I bought a used cd6000 for around US$100.00. I have canabalised my cd67se for silmics and done 1mH inductors and bead to all supply lines bypassed output silmics and put silmics all over. Severe damping with bitumen pads and blue tac on transport. I havent ordered a clock yet. Done LM6172 upgrade. I will do separate torroidal and LM317,337 psu for analog.
My now ageing cd67se with good parts stole still has more soul than the CD6000. Its hard to make this call as its not a bad soundiing player now(was very thin)
Its like comparing a ferari with a volvo if thats a fair ccomparison.
CD67se has a zest to it, its more spacious, dynamic and to be honest I may order two clocks from Guido.
Comments anyone?
Hi,
I was wondering if replacing the output capacitors 2219, 2220, 2221 and 2222 with a low/mid quality 110uF metallized polypropylene capacitor (SCR) be worth the cost? What about replacing them with a 100uF non-polarized cap like the blackgates?
Thank you.
Paul
I was wondering if replacing the output capacitors 2219, 2220, 2221 and 2222 with a low/mid quality 110uF metallized polypropylene capacitor (SCR) be worth the cost? What about replacing them with a 100uF non-polarized cap like the blackgates?
Thank you.
Paul
I just took mine out, put in a jumper and used the silmics elsewhere. I doubt weather the change is worth the money, Silmics are good caps. However the blackgates non polar would be my choice.
Thank you for your reply Luke.
The blackgate option does seem more appealing then the MKP one, especially from a cost perspective.
I think I have everything figured out in order to mod this player, the only thing I'm missing is the player itself
lol
Am I right to assume that this would be a good (sound wise) and relatively inexpensive first player to mod?
Paul
The blackgate option does seem more appealing then the MKP one, especially from a cost perspective.
I think I have everything figured out in order to mod this player, the only thing I'm missing is the player itself
lolAm I right to assume that this would be a good (sound wise) and relatively inexpensive first player to mod?
Paul
have you read the TNT article by Thorsten for modding the cd67?
This is a good place to start and the player is quite similar. What surprised me how much replacing RC resitors with inductors and good caps.
Bitumen pads are also good, but the clock upgrade is by far the best IMO.
Just get an XO from tentlabs and add the recommended power supply circuit.
This is a good place to start and the player is quite similar. What surprised me how much replacing RC resitors with inductors and good caps.
Bitumen pads are also good, but the clock upgrade is by far the best IMO.
Just get an XO from tentlabs and add the recommended power supply circuit.
Hi All,
Need some advice from you.
Attached below is a used CD6000 std version I managed to get.
Few questions:
1. Any suggestion in upgrading the yellow thing on the top left? The one marked by yellow X.
2. There are many small green and tiny red caps marked by red X in the right centre which I believe are polymer caps with values betweem 120pf and 150pf, can I change all to better caps but all at 150pf?
3. Any suggestion in upgrading the chip at the right bottom marked by blue X? Any point at all?
Thanks.
Need some advice from you.
Attached below is a used CD6000 std version I managed to get.
Few questions:
1. Any suggestion in upgrading the yellow thing on the top left? The one marked by yellow X.
2. There are many small green and tiny red caps marked by red X in the right centre which I believe are polymer caps with values betweem 120pf and 150pf, can I change all to better caps but all at 150pf?
3. Any suggestion in upgrading the chip at the right bottom marked by blue X? Any point at all?
Thanks.
Attachments
marantz
hi if i were you i would for get abot the capacitors get a trichord clock 4 and a good power supply for it then sit back and enjoy a wonderful sound from this player
hi if i were you i would for get abot the capacitors get a trichord clock 4 and a good power supply for it then sit back and enjoy a wonderful sound from this player
In my experience caps matter alot. But clock makes a the biggest difference.
I have read some spec sheets on the Marrantz 6000 range and they claim that the 6000 has one dac, the 6000ose and KI has 2 in differential mode. My 6000 has two dacs, Did they change their specs or was it a publishing error?
I have read some spec sheets on the Marrantz 6000 range and they claim that the 6000 has one dac, the 6000ose and KI has 2 in differential mode. My 6000 has two dacs, Did they change their specs or was it a publishing error?
Heat-sink the Op-amp and voltage regulators
Hi All,
First let me wish you a Merry Christmas.
With the holiday mood I added 4 heat-sinks to 4 voltage (the other 2 already have good heat-sinks so I left them alone); in addition I placed 2 heat-sinks on top of my Op-amps (AD826AN).
To heat-sink the Op-amps was a little tricky, I coated just a small dap of those heat-sink cream on the heat-sinks, then placed them carefully on top of the op-amps. Then slowly placed back the cover then connect the player back.
Results.......... NO AUDIBLE DIFFERENCE.
Well, lesson learned so not wasted.
Cheers.
Hi All,
First let me wish you a Merry Christmas.
With the holiday mood I added 4 heat-sinks to 4 voltage (the other 2 already have good heat-sinks so I left them alone); in addition I placed 2 heat-sinks on top of my Op-amps (AD826AN).
To heat-sink the Op-amps was a little tricky, I coated just a small dap of those heat-sink cream on the heat-sinks, then placed them carefully on top of the op-amps. Then slowly placed back the cover then connect the player back.
Results.......... NO AUDIBLE DIFFERENCE.
Well, lesson learned so not wasted.
Cheers.
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