bright sound with CCS?
I built the CCS boards with 2SK246y's and "good old" resistors (found the right value with trimmer pots and put a "mix" of them instead). I did have a bright sound for the first 24-36 hrs but it almost disappeared after that period. I don't understand how it can last until two weeks.
I built the CCS boards with 2SK246y's and "good old" resistors (found the right value with trimmer pots and put a "mix" of them instead). I did have a bright sound for the first 24-36 hrs but it almost disappeared after that period. I don't understand how it can last until two weeks.
precision
Forgot to say that the spot on the picture where you take the power is 3.3V unless you replaced the LF33 by something else (I know you did but it's not 5V originally).
Forgot to say that the spot on the picture where you take the power is 3.3V unless you replaced the LF33 by something else (I know you did but it's not 5V originally).
The top of the red main board where I taped into power is labelled "VDD out". I Replaced the original LF33 which feeds VDD with the smallest Belleson 5V Vreg when I added the 1/2 clock board.
5V regulator
I found a 5V REG103 in my parts that will feed the five 74VHC's and half clock delay board. A bit expensive but it's a very low noise regulator and just requires small cap values to operate properly.
I found a 5V REG103 in my parts that will feed the five 74VHC's and half clock delay board. A bit expensive but it's a very low noise regulator and just requires small cap values to operate properly.
Hi All,
The last batch of boards will be mailed this morning for:
- myint67
- juancho
- pdb
- brumiam
- heatkit
With this last shipment I should have completed the GBs.
Please let me know if I miss something or you didn't received your mail.
Regards,
Enrico
The last batch of boards will be mailed this morning for:
- myint67
- juancho
- pdb
- brumiam
- heatkit
With this last shipment I should have completed the GBs.
Please let me know if I miss something or you didn't received your mail.
Regards,
Enrico
Also the optocoupler on WaveIO (forgot that one...).
REG103-5 | Single Channel LDO | Linear Regulator (LDO) | Description & parametrics
Maybe somebody can help me with my next update.
I want to include in the DAC the "Wire BAL-BAL" headphone amplifier taking the signal directly from the balanced output of the Sowter trafos that are already installed.
My problem is relevant to the dedicated pot that I want to install between the Sowters and the Wire. Reading in the Wire thread look like the correct value is 1K but I don't know where I can found a balanced 1K pot.
I look in Hificollective and they have only 100K as balanced.
Any suggestion?
Thanks and Regards,
Enrico
I want to include in the DAC the "Wire BAL-BAL" headphone amplifier taking the signal directly from the balanced output of the Sowter trafos that are already installed.
My problem is relevant to the dedicated pot that I want to install between the Sowters and the Wire. Reading in the Wire thread look like the correct value is 1K but I don't know where I can found a balanced 1K pot.
I look in Hificollective and they have only 100K as balanced.
Any suggestion?
Thanks and Regards,
Enrico
unbalanced output after change ccs and data resistor
I have a disbalanced signal between right and left.
I added the 1/2 delay clock + CCS pin 20, and it was balenced working on a 4 deck (with only topdeck with CCS).
Then I removed the 1K resistors to 100r for data. I am now testing with one deck (and also changed IV resistors to 133r)
I got a problem using pin20 CCS. The right channel has 2,7V and the left 0.04V. This causes left quiet music - still good sq, but way less loud the rightchannel.
I meassure 2,4 V between Rload and pin 20 CCS (positive) at right side, but 3,0V at the left side. The analoque input is 7,9 volt both left and right.
At the 100R data I get 0,0V and for bck and lrc arond 3,25V, both left and right.
I changed the left CCS pin 20, but no difference in values.
So, what to do?
By The way: the SQ with 1/2 delayclock, 100r and pin 20 CCS with one deck is IMHO higher then the 4 deck without these modification.
I really like the SQ, so again thanks to Doede, Enrico and Ross.
Paul
I have a disbalanced signal between right and left.
I added the 1/2 delay clock + CCS pin 20, and it was balenced working on a 4 deck (with only topdeck with CCS).
Then I removed the 1K resistors to 100r for data. I am now testing with one deck (and also changed IV resistors to 133r)
I got a problem using pin20 CCS. The right channel has 2,7V and the left 0.04V. This causes left quiet music - still good sq, but way less loud the rightchannel.
I meassure 2,4 V between Rload and pin 20 CCS (positive) at right side, but 3,0V at the left side. The analoque input is 7,9 volt both left and right.
At the 100R data I get 0,0V and for bck and lrc arond 3,25V, both left and right.
I changed the left CCS pin 20, but no difference in values.
So, what to do?
By The way: the SQ with 1/2 delayclock, 100r and pin 20 CCS with one deck is IMHO higher then the 4 deck without these modification.
I really like the SQ, so again thanks to Doede, Enrico and Ross.
Paul
Ed,
Cintinuity check 100r : left and right are equal.
Main difference left and right is between comnpin and pin 20 positive 2,4v vs 2,8v
Could be a wima cap around the 1794 be damaged bij heat of soldering?
Paul
Re: unbalanced output after change ccs and data resistor
I always measure about 2.7V from Rload to common and about 2.4V from pin 20 to common. I can't tell for sure from the explanation exactly what is being measured. It sounds like there is a short to common where you are getting the 0.04V reading.
The CCS on the left side could be replaced by the 6K resistor for troubleshooting purposes.
I always measure about 2.7V from Rload to common and about 2.4V from pin 20 to common. I can't tell for sure from the explanation exactly what is being measured. It sounds like there is a short to common where you are getting the 0.04V reading.
The CCS on the left side could be replaced by the 6K resistor for troubleshooting purposes.
"Wire BAL-BAL" 1K Pot
Looks like a simple but great sounding headphone amp. From the schematic I don't see where the pot would go. A 1K pot load after the Sowter would be felt by the DAC/buffer and seems too low a load reistance to me. Are you trying to do volume/balance control? IMO LDR volume control is the best sounding. The Tortuga self-calibrating units have remote control and can be bought as DIY modules or complete units. I bought the DIY modules and was planning to do something similar to the "Wire" for output buffering on 4 channels using the same IC chips.
Looks like a simple but great sounding headphone amp. From the schematic I don't see where the pot would go. A 1K pot load after the Sowter would be felt by the DAC/buffer and seems too low a load reistance to me. Are you trying to do volume/balance control? IMO LDR volume control is the best sounding. The Tortuga self-calibrating units have remote control and can be bought as DIY modules or complete units. I bought the DIY modules and was planning to do something similar to the "Wire" for output buffering on 4 channels using the same IC chips.
Hi Ross,
I replaced the ccs by 6k1 and another ground and now it is balanced. I changed to a spare ccs and now it is all ok. Probably the original ground has a short.
Paul
I make some research and I found this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/161593-wiring-balanced-volume-pots.html. The schematic is quite simple and look like have been used succesfully. Can you give a look and let me know your though? Thanks!
Let me know if you need some help for your 4 channel.
Regards,
Enrico
Attachments
CCS follow up
Hello,
I wanted to thank very much for great work and also great help from emyeuoi and carlsor with this small CCS unit.
As I'm new to this I can understand frustrations of some people (like me🙂 which never did this kind of small exact soldering and exact regulations, which can seem very difficult for many and scare them off. I did it following exactly carlsor's construction guide placed on this page. As it all went not too bad I decided to place some photos of it. I did it using soldering iron with nice sharp tip, a big lens with light integrated, and for holding small smd parts I used just a screwdriver.
As for a procedure. Soldering flux was applied to all soldering spots, and this is the most important thing to do for smooth and easy tin placing on them. One drop of melted tin on the iron should last to cover 4-5 spots. Any excess of the solder on the spots can be very easly reduced with soldering wick to a minimum. And then smd parts are placed, alined and pressed with screwdriver and soldering iron (1second on each soldering spot!).
At the end, following emyeuoi's example, I did simulate 2,4v output using two new AA batteries soldered in series and a load made of resistances in parallel applied to them achiving exactly 2,4V. I used 1x 15oHm and 2x 6,8oHm 10W and more (voltage might be little high at the the beginning, just wait a moment it will drop with 1-2minutes), that lets you to regulate your units exactly to 0,188v. But I have to say, that it was just to confirm the values that carlsor wrote on the pouches which you will receive from him (again, great work from his side). All the resistance's values from pouches were spot on, but one. As we are all humans we all can make small errors, therefore I encourage everyone to do some tests before mounting CCS boads on dac, just to sleap in peace. After all, regulating screw was lacked in order to not to move it again even by an accident. No further regulation is needed. I share the carlsor's and emyeuoi's idea about that, as it would be rather difficult to do with more than one stack, plus it's better to not to do any regulations on working boards for sake of safety of them. Also bottom part of the CCS boards are lacked for isolation against accidental shorts with holes on the dac bords. CCS board is actualy mounted up side down.
Please, let me know if you find any shortcomings or have any suggestions. All are most apreciated.
Hello,
I wanted to thank very much for great work and also great help from emyeuoi and carlsor with this small CCS unit.
As I'm new to this I can understand frustrations of some people (like me🙂 which never did this kind of small exact soldering and exact regulations, which can seem very difficult for many and scare them off. I did it following exactly carlsor's construction guide placed on this page. As it all went not too bad I decided to place some photos of it. I did it using soldering iron with nice sharp tip, a big lens with light integrated, and for holding small smd parts I used just a screwdriver.
As for a procedure. Soldering flux was applied to all soldering spots, and this is the most important thing to do for smooth and easy tin placing on them. One drop of melted tin on the iron should last to cover 4-5 spots. Any excess of the solder on the spots can be very easly reduced with soldering wick to a minimum. And then smd parts are placed, alined and pressed with screwdriver and soldering iron (1second on each soldering spot!).
At the end, following emyeuoi's example, I did simulate 2,4v output using two new AA batteries soldered in series and a load made of resistances in parallel applied to them achiving exactly 2,4V. I used 1x 15oHm and 2x 6,8oHm 10W and more (voltage might be little high at the the beginning, just wait a moment it will drop with 1-2minutes), that lets you to regulate your units exactly to 0,188v. But I have to say, that it was just to confirm the values that carlsor wrote on the pouches which you will receive from him (again, great work from his side). All the resistance's values from pouches were spot on, but one. As we are all humans we all can make small errors, therefore I encourage everyone to do some tests before mounting CCS boads on dac, just to sleap in peace. After all, regulating screw was lacked in order to not to move it again even by an accident. No further regulation is needed. I share the carlsor's and emyeuoi's idea about that, as it would be rather difficult to do with more than one stack, plus it's better to not to do any regulations on working boards for sake of safety of them. Also bottom part of the CCS boards are lacked for isolation against accidental shorts with holes on the dac bords. CCS board is actualy mounted up side down.
Please, let me know if you find any shortcomings or have any suggestions. All are most apreciated.
Last edited:
Nice CCS soldering work
D3nsityD3nt,
Very neat soldering work all around! I cant wait to hear about the sq results.
Looking at your pictures it appears that you do not have decoupling film caps at the C28 and C30 positions at pin 09 - VDD. IMO these are are must! My favorite digital film caps are the 0.068uf PPS although the 0.100uf PETs provided in the DAC kit should be much better than nothing. Everything else looks great in the pictures.
D3nsityD3nt,
Very neat soldering work all around! I cant wait to hear about the sq results.
Looking at your pictures it appears that you do not have decoupling film caps at the C28 and C30 positions at pin 09 - VDD. IMO these are are must! My favorite digital film caps are the 0.068uf PPS although the 0.100uf PETs provided in the DAC kit should be much better than nothing. Everything else looks great in the pictures.
Thanks carlsor!
Caps will be there. I left the board without any caps for transparent photos purpose. If you can take a look closer, you will notice dip pins all over the board. Board is ready for hot swaping any caps. I want to make tests and trials with many caps configurations and voice it to match my amps and speakers. I have 0,068uF already ready too :-D
PS
Placing photos in this forum is a nightmare, but I'm getting better 🙂